Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im after a piece of carbon fibre sheet approx 200x200 to fill the hole left by removal of the climate control and stereo in an R32 GTR. Im going to cut a slot out of the top of it so my Torque split controller and drag adapter can be mounted neatly. Any help is appreciated.

Paul

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96470-carbon-fibre-sheet/
Share on other sites

there is a shop in seven hills, that sells carbon fibre/carbon kevlar by the metre..

carbon is $75 a meter and is just under a metre wide...

only thing you need to make flat sheet is a

A) flat surface - steel or plastic is best

B) releasing polish (not sure on correct name- but it makes the resin not stick to that surface)

c) clear gelcoat (only if you want it smooth and shiney

d)resin and matting

you polish the flat surface with the non-stick polish.. paint on your gel coat then mix up the resin and apply using a roller to get the air bubbles from the matting.. dont make it set too quick cos that will weaken it.

then it dry for a couple of days then your ready to go...

i am also going to do my own sheeting for my centre console.. so if you dont go ahead with it Paul/Stace then let me know and i'll make a bit extra.

shop i went to

FIBREGLASS MATERIAL SERVICES PTY LTD 12 Abbott Road Seven Hills NSW 2147 PH: 02 9624 2511 FAX: 02 9674 2815

link to a bunch of shops

http://www.nationwide.com.au/directory/gen...fibreglass.html

that price is for twill, for flat pannels you dont need twill so its only like $40-$50  a meter

i will prob go for a twill main layer then use plain weave for backing layers . going for looks and function with mine.. and twill is definately the best looking.

will have to chat to the suppliers, i have seen black fibreglass before so i could run a layer of CF twill then run black fibreglass under neath.

There used to be a guy around called Matt Waterman motorsport design that used to sell made carbon sheeting in different thicknesses etc and different looks, was reasonably priced also dont know if he is still going???

i will prob go for a twill main layer then use plain weave for backing layers . going for looks and function with mine.. and twill is definately the best looking.

will have to chat to the suppliers, i have seen black fibreglass before so i could run a layer of CF twill then run black fibreglass under neath.

you sure it wasnt just a tint?

a way to do it is to use a black tint in the resin ontop of your carbon layer after it has kicked

Edited by midnight

i use a sheet of glass for making flat panels....wipe wax over it a few times and laminate off the edge of the glass so you got something to pull it off from....i dont use gelcoat as glass lets the resin ride flat....use vinyl ester resin for glossy a result....for right angles and moulding i use vacuum to pull the material to the mould but flat stuff is easy

Does anyone have any nifty tips for making curved moulds for this stuff?

I've always wanted to try my hand at making a few things but always got stuck when it came to making the right shaped mould capable of the right finish.

Eg, anyone want to suggest how they might make cf copies of the plastic trim around the electric window buttons?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...