Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Autronic SM2 is around $2000 - $2500, for what you want I wouldnt see a need to go the SM4. Has capabilities for launch control, antilag and the processing power and tuning resolution is pretty damn close to the Motec M800 and HKS Fcon V-Pro (the SM4 is alot closer, but also alot more money).

Im actually debating at the moment wether to pull the PFC out of mine and go an Autronic as I have seen some really impressive things done with them (also PFC is a static map, once its set it doesnt change, Autronic is dynamic so if its a hot day it will retard ignition timing to try stave off detonation etc).

Autronic SM2 is around $2000 - $2500, for what you want I wouldnt see a need to go the SM4. Has capabilities for launch control, antilag and the processing power and tuning resolution is pretty damn close to the Motec M800 and HKS Fcon V-Pro (the SM4 is alot closer, but also alot more money).

Im actually debating at the moment wether to pull the PFC out of mine and go an Autronic as I have seen some really impressive things done with them (also PFC is a static map, once its set it doesnt change, Autronic is dynamic so if its a hot day it will retard ignition timing to try stave off detonation etc).

the pfc does have correction factors for such days ie ign vs water temp and ign vs air temp which can be adjusted and will compensate for hot days

pete

the pfc does have correction factors for such days ie ign vs water temp and ign vs air temp which can be adjusted and will compensate for hot days

pete

Yeah it does, but not to the levels of some of the more advanced ECU's you can pick up for just a little bit extra (e.g. autronic)

Im in no way bagging the PFC, it is an awesome computer and I have been running one for 2 1/2 years now. I just personally think the Autronic is one step above the PFC (and, for that same reason, costs more as well) :)

MOTEC

There is no subsitute.

I agree!

I have read on many occasions on this forum about AFM being better. But what I don’t understand is why are a lot of quick track/drag GTR's going AFM(less)? I thought it was a rule of thumb that says "if you are going high mount turbo's you should consider a management system that does not incorporate AFM's". (The performance company that stated this will remain nameless).

Personally, how can you top the Motec and Autronic systems for a GTR?

Yeah it does, but not to the levels of some of the more advanced ECU's you can pick up for just a little bit extra (e.g. autronic)

Im in no way bagging the PFC, it is an awesome computer and I have been running one for 2 1/2 years now. I just personally think the Autronic is one step above the PFC (and, for that same reason, costs more as well) :huh:

yeah its true ecu like motec and autronic have much more flexibly but i think one thing that is over looked in all the ecu concidered is the impacted the tuner has. Meaning it would matter what ecu you got if the tuner isnt up to the job and if you have an excellent tuner he can make almost any ecu gain great results.

The greatest thing with the pfc is alot of the hard work is already done and there is a big saving in dyno time using a plug and play ($100plus and hour) doesnt take long to burn up lot of cash. I know of a tuner who want atleast a full day on the dyno get to put the ignital tune on a motel rb26/30 drag car at a $150hr that starts to add up very quickly my advice was for the guy to use a pfc pro and build the combo for there.

Hell who really gives a shit what ecu is in a drag car. Comparing high horsepower drag cars to a street car is just ignorant this is why a microtech will do about the same job as a MOTEC minus all the logging. The beauty of the autronic is that once you map out the VE table all you have to do is change your commanded AFR ratio to wathever you desire. Change turbo's, boost who cares your not changing volumetric efficency. This is how most standard holden and ford speed density ecu work.

My car came with a HKS FCON v piggy back and this uses a denso map sensor and has no MAF sensors. It's a daily driver and I have pretty much no issue with driveability. Yes it's a bit vague between -2 to +2 PSI when accelerating but more air gets to the turbos in the end, and it also depends on what your tuner can do to make the map smoother, just my 2 cents.

Hell who really gives a shit what ecu is in a drag car.  Comparing high horsepower drag cars to a street car is just ignorant this is why a microtech will do about the same job as a MOTEC minus all the logging.  The beauty of the autronic is that once you map out the VE table all you have to do is change your commanded AFR ratio to wathever you desire.  Change turbo's, boost who cares your not changing volumetric efficency.  This is how most standard holden and ford speed density ecu work.

I can't help but think this post is in reply to my one! So let’s clear this up!

My post was made in reference to the argument "about AFM being better than MAP's"(not arguing for or against it, just curious). My line of thinking was if AFM are so good why are alot high horsepower GTR opting not to use management systems that do not use AFM's. Just an observation aside to the original topic!

Believe it or not rob82 there are people on this forums that don't give a shit about streetability (seldom few) and are more geared towards track (as I am) and drag.

And as for the "Comparing high horsepower drag cars to a street car is just ignorant" comment. People who do not read posts properly and make statements such as this are the ignorant ones. :)

Edited by manage13

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...