Jump to content
SAU Community

In Need Of A New Clutch

abcent
 Share

Recommended Posts

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Im still using an OS twin. Was cheap to rebuild ($600 ea for plates)

Its nie and heavy. But i prefer that to a light feeling clutch my laser has :P

So im not using a Jim Berry... but that many people here have changed over the them and are raving. Pedal feels light, takes massive abuse etc.

Pulled the OS out, no problems after 6 months. As new

MarkE Collaborator

MarkE

Posted
Posted

I'm sorting out putting my RB25 gearbox in my R31 in preparation for the RB30DET that is being built.

Looking at ~250RWKW. Unsure what sort of clutch to look at - want something practical, but am on a tight budget.

Im still using an OS twin. Was cheap to rebuild ($600 ea for plates)

Its nie and heavy. But i prefer that to a light feeling clutch my laser has :P

So im not using a Jim Berry... but that many people here have changed over the them and are raving. Pedal feels light, takes massive abuse etc.

Pulled the OS out, no problems after 6 months. As new

abcent Mentor

abcent

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yeah Jim Berry is the clutch GOD..

he made my 1200pound clutch into a 4300pound clutch within minutes of me walking into his shop.

so you have the "full monty" single plate set-up? whats it like to drive? does it cope well under abuse (dragging, track work, or burnouts etc...). what sort of power an torque are you putting through it?

B33st Community Regular

B33st

Posted
Posted

DSC01118.jpg

I have yet to use the clutch above, built by Jim berry. I am still working on getting my freshly built engine back into the skyline. However I am looking for 320rwkw +.

I orginally had a NPC heavy duty clutch, which according the Jim actually started out as a VL commo clutch. He modified the preasure plate to more than tripple it's clamping pressure, and built me a new clutch plate using a new excedy 5 puck sprung clutch centre from a nissan patrol modified with his own carbotic buttons. This cost me $850.

Ring him, listen to what he has to say about clutches for 3 hours and in the end he'll tell you exactly what you want.

abcent Mentor

abcent

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah he spoke to me for quite some time!! certainly a world of knowledge. He said he may be able to use my old excedy button clutch depending on what parts it had (some of the older ones have same diaphrams an stuff as Nismo aparantly, but the new ones he cant use?)

so next weekend i'm pulling out the g/box & clutch to see if I can use it or not. hopefully it'll be all back together an like new before christmas.

Not looking forward to pulling the clutch out on the ground of my garage, shoulfnt take too long though

redline2003 Community Regular

redline2003

Posted
Posted

The NISMO Coppermix is rated at 420HP at the engine and is a single plate full-faced clutch(smoother for street driving). This is the clutch i'm getting for my S15 as a twin plate would most likely kill the fragile 6 speed gearbox. Best price I found would be a Melbourne dealer named RMS Motorsport, quoted me $1450 pick up from the stoe in Melbourne. This price included the lightened flywheel, clutch plate, pressure plate, fork etc. Speak to Henry at RMS if you decide to go for the NISMO clutch, a nicer guy you won't find.

abcent Mentor

abcent

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The NISMO Coppermix is rated at 420HP at the engine and is a single plate full-faced clutch(smoother for street driving). This is the clutch i'm getting for my S15 as a twin plate would most likely kill the fragile 6 speed gearbox. Best price I found would be a Melbourne dealer named RMS Motorsport, quoted me $1450 pick up from the stoe in Melbourne. This price included the lightened flywheel, clutch plate, pressure plate, fork etc. Speak to Henry at RMS if you decide to go for the NISMO clutch, a nicer guy you won't find.

the one Jim Berry can make is also a single full faced clutch, using a better friction material of some sort and much stronger diaphram. From what he tells me, it can handle 550hp+ and a fair amount of abuse. he quoted me $1100 for this brand new clutch, delivered from QLD to my door (VIC). the only thing it doesnt have is the light flywheel, which from what im told on Skylines makes gear changes rough an the car a bit harder to get off the line hard?

Deluxe Grand Master

Deluxe

Posted
Posted

Hey fella, my mate works at Xtreme Clutch here in Adelaide below is thier website have a bit of a look around it, the phone number is 1800 CLUTCH and you can speak with Brad, tell him your power and what you want out of it and he will sort you out with what you need.........hope this helps you out

http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/

Good luck

Darren

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...