Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Having a bit of a problem with my g/f's car at the moment.

When driving the HICAS light will start to flash and flicker, steering will start to feel funny, then eventually the car will die.

When trying to restart the car after this it's as though the car has a flat battery. Won't crank over properly.

I also noticed that if the HICAS light starts flickering, and turns on, all I have to do is drop down a gear and rev the tits out of the engine to get the light to turn off, and the steering to return to normal.

Now, I managed to get the car home, and put a multimeter across the battery. It was showing 11.8V when off, and 11.8V when the engine was started. (this is with the multimeter across the battery terminals. Is this how I should do it?)

The battery is brand new.

Is the alternator dead? Is there somewhere else I should be getting the multimeter reading from? Is there anything else I can check?

Please help. Need to get this fixed asap, but being a saturday it's going to be hard to find a mechanic that can do it today.

Just checked the car... Jump started it, and put a multimeter across the battery.

At idle the voltage remains at 11.8V, but when I rev to 4000rpm the voltage rises to 12.4 or so.

The alternator is dead isn't it?

Yeah, it should read 13.8-14 at idle.

Just wondering if there's anything I can really check?

I've checked the belt on the alternator, that appears to be on tightly, and not slipping.

Had a feel around of the wires, they appear to be plugged in.

Anything else I can do?

I really need to fix this today. I guess I should start ringing around to see if I can find a 2nd hand alternator, or a new one.

Appears to be fixed now.

Replaced the alternator, HICAS light doesn't turn on. Car doesn't stall, and the battery's charging :P

Now to check for where that power steering fluid is going....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...