Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

they are visibly different.

i dont have a pic side by side tough...

(dunno the technical name) but the skinnest part of the rod where is goings onto the little circle is much meatier.

If i can notice a difference then it must be a bit :P

Im sure there are others that a trained eye can pick out easily

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

rods.jpg

RB26 is obviously thicker in the area that counts. But if you've held either rord in your hand you can see how tiny they are. Even though the RB25 rod is skinny, it's still very strong.

Instead of getting eagle rods which don't have a good rep in the US, buy some Crower rods. $600 vs. $1000. Not that much.

Edited by maximajim

Eagle rods are considered an entry level rod for people that arent gonna break the 450kw barrier. I've made about 440wkw with Eagle rods, and they were fine, but I still dont 100% trust them. Crower rods are very strong, but also much more expensive. For the price of crower rods, I can use aluminum rods that will be MUCH lighter, and handle more than twice the power. The aluminum rods we use are very trick. They have a dowel pin that holds the bearing in place and keeps it from spinning. It's a very nice piece. If the GTR rods will handle 350-400rwkw, that's all I'll need. The turbo on the car cant even make power that high, so it's just precautionary. I'm also gonna need torque specs for the ARP headstuds, and ARP rod bolts. So if anyone has the correct information, that would also be greatly appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All 3 I guess. The car came with the JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit unpainted so this was one thing at the top of my list to complete then I noticed there were body panels parts for this kit so i picked them up along with some black mesh to fill in the front bumper and front side air vents. car is at a paint and body shop atm completing this work. Next I will be addressing the internal bells and whistles, great summer project I can do with the kids.  full interior removal - ,boys car sound deadening - pads and spray ,boys stereo, sound, lighting - Big 3, GTT or bigger alternator ,kids head lining - dye black add star lighting mod ,daughter. That's it for the next 5-6 months. I have some motor maintenance  work i have to plan out. oil filter relocation, gaskets, mounts. beyond that, mind is starting to turn over if i can use a DET intake plenum, block off turbo ports & pipe in a air intake.      
    • roller coaster of a ride. Alarm system was removed & main harness was repaired where possible. still no fix just random successful starts. moved on to the replacing the ignition switch and relay. well all this troubleshooting & repair has been going on, the car is at a paint and body shop being pushed around. Ive been going down there on odd days after work to get it sorted.     
    • 5th November if you want to come out for a spin wakfield
    • PROBLEM WAS BROKEN COOLANT SENSOR!!! Replaced with a new one and its running mint.
    • I think he was only proposing to use the wire, not the sender. Simply because it runs from the right place to the right place. Personally, I wouldn't hack up the factory wiring like that. I'd just lay in the Defi loom.
×
×
  • Create New...