Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 95 r33 gtst...

Its had a shitty idle for quite a while. Ive attached a link to an excel sheet with a datalog from the nissan datascan software.

It shows a warm start, idling for a moment, then easy acceleration to 100km/h.

I would really appreciate it if I could get some opinions on it. The only thing I notice is the very very unstable timing at idle.... but what on earth could be causing this??

Thanks in advance.

Datalog

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97689-check-out-my-datalog-please/
Share on other sites

Is the value of AF Base the learned AF correction? In which case it is quite lean. Check the O2 sensor grounds and its bias with chassis and ECU ground. Also maybe a noisy crank signal. Try running another ground to the CAS. If this dosn't work try one from another car.

  • 4 weeks later...

Ok, swap tested the CAS.... same deal. WHY!?

Not the AFM, O2 sensor, plugs, coils, battery, CAS, AAC valve. I tested the A/F ratios with a wideband O2 sensor & they were spot on too.

I got a shit idle, no power, and my ignition timing is all over the shop.

I'm gonna drive the f**ker off a cliff!!!!

The pfc uses ign in an attempt to lower idle in conjunction with the AAC.

This is what it looks like it is trying to do.

Whats your base idle set to in the pfc?

I would disconnect the aac and reset your idle when warm to as close but ensure its not over the pfc's set idle a/c off. Reconnect the aac.

Init the pfc, load in your maps, start the car and send it through the 30min idle learn. For the next few days it will still occasionally play up, let it do its thing then all of a sudden you will think.. oh shiet its idling perfectly smooth.

DO NOT attempt to change the idle rpm as it will bugger it up and you will constantly have a crap idle from then on. For some silly reason I've always had to init the pfc for it to relearn the idle properly.

If this doesn't work ensure your aac is clean from gum (remove and pull apart, soak and clean) Also ensure the solanoid is working. Hitting the A/C button is an easy way to test, idle should raise, same with turning your power steer.

I would then attempt swapping of the cas and all the other harder and more expensive solutions. :nyaanyaa:

Edited by Cubes

mate, i cant set a base idle.... doesnt matter how i adjust the cas, the timing will jump everywhere at idle. I have tested my datascan cable & software on another r33 & got a rock solid 15 degrees...

plug gap is .8

cubes, i actually have a pfc by the way... havnt had it tuned yet coz i wanna sort this shit out first... but i CANT!

Edited by Mickroy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...