Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Tomorrow I'll be replacing my rocker cover gaskets and the semi-circle rubber seals at the back. I just have a few questions:

1. Is there any special method of cleaning the surfaces before putting on the new gaskets?

2. What sort of adhesive do I need to put on the semi-circle rubber seals and where can I get it?

EDIT: 3. Should I replace the grommets on the screws that hold the rocker cover down? I don't think Nissan even list them in FAST, all I could find was the washer for the screw but no picture or mention of grommet in FAST.

Thanks everyone.

Edited by ToF
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97854-replacing-rocker-cover-gasket/
Share on other sites

OK I found most of my answers in this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=71313 by searching indirectly. Sorry about that.

Anyway I'm still not sure if nissan can get those rubber grommets for the screws, anyone done this before and got them?

1. either use degreaser to completely clean the rocker covers or wax/grease remover (or even just petrol) to clean the 'grooves'.

2. 3 Bond is probably best sealer and it's what the factory uses. Burson's carry it.

3. the little rubber washers are available from Nissan (and shown in FAST). Pesronally I would replace them at the same time as they compress and go hard with age.

There should be a thread with info on how to get it and how to install it but I've already forgotten where it is, sorry.

Umm, after I did the job it now leaks oil.... more than before :S

I think I may have tighened the screws too hard, what can I do from here?

Oh shit, I just read the post from 3lit3 32 again...

"I would also recommend getting new rocker cover bolt rubbers as this will help the screws all pull down evenly. They have a flat side underneath that stops when the thread runs out, if the seal is squashed, it won't hold the cover down properly."

Does this mean I should undo the screws until the washers are in original standing state (not squished)???

ah this can be done over and over again and it will still leak. The best way is to use a gasket sealer all the way around. Then start screwing down the screws from the middle and working towards the back of the engine make sure your engine is stone cold when doing this some loctite thread locker may help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...