Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi people im selling my T51 turbo i never had the chance to blot up this monstar, i Brought this puppy about 1month ago it was goin to go on a Rb 25/30det. but my plans have changed to a rb26dett with twin hks 2830 pro s turbos. im Located in melbourne i will be able to post anywhere, it will cost $80 to post coz its 20kg's

i paid $2000 and selling for $1300frim*

Spec's

T51 Turbo rated at 800-1000hp

Checked by ATS turbo professionals, who said it was in very good condition.

No shaft movement (Bush type Turbo)

Oil cooled only

HKS Stamped on rear housing

Garret Tag on the Centre of the turbo

Garret Front cover

-Compress wheel is 7cm across A/R .72

Front compressor bell mouth 10cm across

-Exhaust Wheel is 7cm across A/R 0.90

T4 Flange

Serial number on turbo - WG 7011J

Comes with Dump/front pipe to suit

post-15174-1134207155.jpg

post-15174-1134207183.jpg

post-15174-1134207221.jpg

post-15174-1134207340.jpg

Edited by JETR-32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98037-fs-hks-t51/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

to bolt this turbo up to an rb20 it will need alittle work. frist u will need to buy a T3/T4 Adaptor plate from autobarn about $30 to blot the turbo up to the standard Manifold. then u will need to cut a hole in the Manifold and weld up a small pipe for the wastegate (all this can be done at anywork shop for no more than $100) for the dump/front pipe i have one and will give it 2u for free. blot up the oil lines and off u go. about a dayz work if u get help.

Hi.  Sorry to sound like an idiot, but how much work would I need to do to put this onto a rb20det with 3" intake/dump, and 500hp fuel pump?  Everything else is pretty stock.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98037-fs-hks-t51/#findComment-1847547
Share on other sites

hi i enquired about this a while ago, the dump pipe/and front pipe bolt up to the cat on my gtr? or do i have to get a pipe made up.

Do you have access to a manifold to suit a rb26? and wastegate?

hi mate the front/dump pipe is for a high mount but can be modifly by any shop. for the manifold and wastegate talk to "RACESPEC" on this forum he can hook u up with a package. if u get a high mount manifold the dump/front pipe will bolt rite up

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98037-fs-hks-t51/#findComment-1851215
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...