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Safe Operating Temp For R33 Gts-t?

sl33py

By sl33py,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

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GTR_STEALTH Proficient

GTR_STEALTH

Posted
Posted

Classic signs of a blocked radiator & faulty pump...

If the water was really really dirty when u flushed it then im willing to bet ur radiator core has blocked up from all the gunk.

Also, if there was no corrosion inhibitor visible then as Paul mentioned ur water pump fins would be stuffed.

Thermostate should be fine.

Change ur pump to be on the safe side and definately 100%get ur radiator looked at by a professional to be cleaned/renewed

sl33py Mentor

sl33py

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Stealth: What's corrosion inhibitor and what does it look like?

The car was overhearing *before* we flushed the system. We weer flushing it because of the overheat! So the flush isn't the cause. It wasn't dropping out chunks of stuff.. it was just very brown coolant, which starts off a reddish colour anyway right! So I don't expect it was toooo bad.

Thanks for the input all. Hopefully my mechanic will find the cause tomorrow. MAN it sucks babying it and having everyone overtake u.

sl33py Mentor

sl33py

Posted
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Cause: radiator more than 2/3's blocked and (possibly as a result of the blockage), the water pump leaking slightly. Need the radiator properly flushed and new pump. So now the car's an in-patient overnight :D but I get it back tomorrow. So there ya go.

Over the past few weeks I've been amazed at how this engine is able to perform at 50%-70% of it's capacity (or more!) with knackered parts that I would have though were vital! On one hand it's great.. means you're less likely to be stuck out woopwoop because of one failed component, but on the other hand, I'm wondering what else isn't right and if I'm getting as much power/efficiency out of it as I should be!

Oh well, I didn't know what to do with all my paycheck anyway.. *Not*

GTR_STEALTH Proficient

GTR_STEALTH

Posted
Posted

Good to see ya got the problem nailed...

HaHa, i knew it was them two! Read my first line in above post....

In regards to the brown reddy stuff coming out, yeah it was only till u explained in detail that i realised that it was the type of coolant used. I imagined it was rusty/dirty water from ur previous posts...

sl33py Mentor

sl33py

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yep, got it in one stealth :) Can't wait to get her back (should be today). Hopefully a flush will be OK. Dad said in one car he had, a flush just blew holes in the radiator and needing replacing altogether!

I'm wondering one thing though: should the rb25det be able to take 5 or 6 hits to redline in a row? e.g. get in 2nd gear, do about 20kph then floor it til redline. Slow down. Repeat. I was doing that to test high RPM misfire when I noticed the overheating. Now obviously that's not "normal" use for the car, but I don't imagine it's too different from anyone who heads off to Wakefield or Oran park for a day.

Now what I wanna know is, should the car be able to do that ocassionally or is it a really dumb thing to do? Cos.. it IS a performance engine, but this overheat has got me wondering, and kinda deterring me from really testing out any misfire at higher RPM or taking it up that high in the first place! Obviously the power increase tails off around 6400 (don't know the exact rpm)...

A mate was telling me that anyone who races their car mods the cooling system (FMIC etc). But if turbo engines need that stuff for what I'm talking about - just a 20-30 minute hoon or to stay up above 5K for any decent time, I'd be very surprised (altho I'm new to turbo so maybe, but just seems weird).

What do u reckon? Cos at some stage I'm gonna get Splitfires and will want to repeat that high rpm test again. NB: It was a hot day when I did it, but don't think it was any hotter than the ambient temps u'd find on a race track.

Probably a stupid question and out of context since the car was overheating no matter how I drove it, but I think it's related.

blackprincegts Collaborator

blackprincegts

Posted
Posted

Bro i rekn you have yourself a blocked radiator.I only just replaced mine in my 32 due to bassiclally the same problem that you having.The only thing you havn't described however that mine was doing was that when the pressure built up the coolant would be forced in2 the overboil tank because it wasn't able to flow through the core of the radiator, Therefore the coolant looked as if it were boiling and the car would overheat. 1 morning even my engine switched itself off in2 protection mode because it got so hot without my realising.

New radiators arnt cheap. bout 600 bucks if you get a mechanic to do it.I got a second hand perfect condition one for $140 and i think thats the way to go if that turns out to be your problem.

Most guys i know with 32's including myself have had major cooling issues after importing the car.Thats because put quite simply the japanese dont service that sort of thing like they should.Mine had tap water in it!!!!

Hope you find a solution soon...

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