Jump to content
SAU Community

In The Dark....

mazgtr

By mazgtr,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

mazgtr Community Regular

mazgtr

Posted
Posted

Noticed the other night driveing home that i now for some reason have no headlights. The rear lights, dash lights and parker lights all still work, and one of my high-beams still does, but the other high beam and both normal headlights aint working. Ive checked the 2 fuses under the hood, and even changed them just to be sure. Ive also changed one of the non working headlight bulbs, but still no good. If i use a bit of speaker wire and wire it directley from the battery straight to one of the headlight globes it will light up.

Just hopeing for anything else i can try or look for before i take it to an Autoelectrician and leave the car and a blank cheque with him.... :)

Thanks guys.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98485-in-the-dark/
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

The combo switch will affect the low-beams. Often, in the early stages, if you jiggle the switch a bit you can often get them working. The switch can be pulled apart and cleaned up as a bandaid.

The high-beam problem is probably a blown globe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98485-in-the-dark/#findComment-1791475
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted (edited)

Mines done this.

At first the right low beam would just drop out, give the dash switch a wiggle or switch it off and on quckly and both would come back on again.

After a while both lights dropped out, leaving only high beam and parkers.

I had the auto elect replace the switch. 6 months later it did it again.

I ripped the dash switch out and soldered the contcts together so that if one earths they both earth. You will see what I mean when you pull the switch apart. The problem lies with these little plastic lumps of plastic that are used on a roll type switch to place pressure upon the contact to earth it out.

The plastic appears to melt causing the contact not to make contact properly. Hope that makes sense. :)

As a bonus the low beam now stays on when I switch the high beam on. Its been like this for 3years without a problem.

I am a little nervous about leaving the high beam on for long periods of time as I fear it may be overloading the switch having both low and high on at the same time.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98485-in-the-dark/#findComment-1792581
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thats exactly my thinking.. BUT why is it generating enough heat for it to melt the little plastic lugs that place the spring loaded pressure on the metal contacts in the first place.

Its rather common for R32's to do in their lightswitch.

The Auto elec, (who owns a rather tweaked R33) said he's had quite a few R32's in, he solution was to completely bypass the origional relays and wire up his own. ~$180 he quoted, bugger that I can do it for next to nothing myself. :D

Either way, my bodgy mod worked, has for 3years if not more.

The years are flying past, I've had the damn car for 4years now :)

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98485-in-the-dark/#findComment-1792654
Share on other sites
RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

It all goes through the combination switch on Nissans.

No Relays.

Thats why you have so many contacts on the combination switches and the reason they fail all the time.

As soon as the contacts get dirty, causes high resistance, then it gets hot and melts the plastic.

Nissan skylines, navaras, patrols etc are all the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98485-in-the-dark/#findComment-1793092
Share on other sites
mazgtr Community Regular

mazgtr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Being strapped for cash at this time of year especially, i spent a bit of time today and simply rewired the headlights with some new wire and fitted my own inline fuse to a simple toggle switch, as a temporary solution. I ran outta wire though today, so for now the switch is mounted under the hood next to the battery, obviously ill buy some more wire and try and mount the new switch inside the cabin, until i can afford a new Nissan switch.

Just on this fella's, wheres the best/easiest place to get wire from the engine bay through the fire wall into the cabin, i couldnt see anything obvious today, but didnt look to hard yet...

Cheers....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98485-in-the-dark/#findComment-1793638
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Make sure you wire it up with a relay, not just a fuse. You can pass it through the firewall on either side. You should see a triangular foam blocker in the far corner where the inner guard meets the outer firewall. You can find this on both sides. It's tucked away down in a little hole sorta.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98485-in-the-dark/#findComment-1793832
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...