Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Noticed the other night driveing home that i now for some reason have no headlights. The rear lights, dash lights and parker lights all still work, and one of my high-beams still does, but the other high beam and both normal headlights aint working. Ive checked the 2 fuses under the hood, and even changed them just to be sure. Ive also changed one of the non working headlight bulbs, but still no good. If i use a bit of speaker wire and wire it directley from the battery straight to one of the headlight globes it will light up.

Just hopeing for anything else i can try or look for before i take it to an Autoelectrician and leave the car and a blank cheque with him.... :)

Thanks guys.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98485-in-the-dark/
Share on other sites

The combo switch will affect the low-beams. Often, in the early stages, if you jiggle the switch a bit you can often get them working. The switch can be pulled apart and cleaned up as a bandaid.

The high-beam problem is probably a blown globe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98485-in-the-dark/#findComment-1791475
Share on other sites

Mines done this.

At first the right low beam would just drop out, give the dash switch a wiggle or switch it off and on quckly and both would come back on again.

After a while both lights dropped out, leaving only high beam and parkers.

I had the auto elect replace the switch. 6 months later it did it again.

I ripped the dash switch out and soldered the contcts together so that if one earths they both earth. You will see what I mean when you pull the switch apart. The problem lies with these little plastic lumps of plastic that are used on a roll type switch to place pressure upon the contact to earth it out.

The plastic appears to melt causing the contact not to make contact properly. Hope that makes sense. :)

As a bonus the low beam now stays on when I switch the high beam on. Its been like this for 3years without a problem.

I am a little nervous about leaving the high beam on for long periods of time as I fear it may be overloading the switch having both low and high on at the same time.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98485-in-the-dark/#findComment-1792581
Share on other sites

Thats exactly my thinking.. BUT why is it generating enough heat for it to melt the little plastic lugs that place the spring loaded pressure on the metal contacts in the first place.

Its rather common for R32's to do in their lightswitch.

The Auto elec, (who owns a rather tweaked R33) said he's had quite a few R32's in, he solution was to completely bypass the origional relays and wire up his own. ~$180 he quoted, bugger that I can do it for next to nothing myself. :D

Either way, my bodgy mod worked, has for 3years if not more.

The years are flying past, I've had the damn car for 4years now :)

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98485-in-the-dark/#findComment-1792654
Share on other sites

It all goes through the combination switch on Nissans.

No Relays.

Thats why you have so many contacts on the combination switches and the reason they fail all the time.

As soon as the contacts get dirty, causes high resistance, then it gets hot and melts the plastic.

Nissan skylines, navaras, patrols etc are all the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98485-in-the-dark/#findComment-1793092
Share on other sites

Being strapped for cash at this time of year especially, i spent a bit of time today and simply rewired the headlights with some new wire and fitted my own inline fuse to a simple toggle switch, as a temporary solution. I ran outta wire though today, so for now the switch is mounted under the hood next to the battery, obviously ill buy some more wire and try and mount the new switch inside the cabin, until i can afford a new Nissan switch.

Just on this fella's, wheres the best/easiest place to get wire from the engine bay through the fire wall into the cabin, i couldnt see anything obvious today, but didnt look to hard yet...

Cheers....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98485-in-the-dark/#findComment-1793638
Share on other sites

Make sure you wire it up with a relay, not just a fuse. You can pass it through the firewall on either side. You should see a triangular foam blocker in the far corner where the inner guard meets the outer firewall. You can find this on both sides. It's tucked away down in a little hole sorta.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98485-in-the-dark/#findComment-1793832
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...