Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello there, im just getting to get into my project car, a 89 cefiro with rb30det

I have bought a wrecked rb25de skyline and wanted to swap over the loom (rb20e) to the rb25de loom so i can run a power fc computer or even a standard skyline rb20det computer. Hopefully i can run a power fc dejetro so i will be able to get rid of the afm?

Can i run either one of these computers with this loom, and what extra sensors will i need for the turbo engine?

If i decided to run a link(im in nz and they are cheap) what would be the better option considering i have a loom with a dizzy and an engine without.

Ive been corresponding lots with Sydneykid whos a true rb30 genius. Hes given me some great information however i thought id try and find some loom experts.

I have talked to the ACL distrubutor here in NZ and the ACL pistons are actually made by Ross Forged (same company) and rebranded ACL. Ill be using ACL bearings and standard rods with these pistons. Running a t66 turbo with rb25de head (rb25det valve springs), 700cc injectors.

Im hoping for 320/340kws at the wheels. A bit different in a 1000 dollar car :(

Cheers

Edited by SirRacer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98578-rb25de-loom-questions/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...