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Hey everyone what's up.

Well first let me say HI all the way from Ontario, Canada. I'm glad the weather is nice for you guys becasue we have a foot of snow on the ground and it's going down to -15C tonight with the windchill. :D

Anyway I belong to local Skyline board in my area and so far I have'nt been able to get any concrete answers to some questions I have and I'm hoping that maybe here I'll get the answers I need.

I'm going to be purchasing a 1990 R32 GTS-t in the new year :D . It's bone stock which is a great base to start my project with as I'm almost assured it was'nt abused by some drifting kid in Japan. Here are a couple of pic's of the actual car. These were taken in Japan but the car is here in Canada now in my buddies shop just waiting for me.

10987600CIMG3085.jpg

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I just wanted a few questions answer and hopefully I'll get them here.

1. GTR hood and grill on a GTS-t? - Does the hood fit right on or do I have to use the GTR hood release latch in place of the GTS-t one? With the grill does it bolt right on or does it require drilling a couple of new holes in the rad support area?

2. Now according to RB20det.com cutting ECU wire #53 removes the speed limiter but then your stuck in HICAS DIAGNOSTIC mode.

Is this true and what is this diagnostic mode? I "had" HICAS on my 240 and to remove it I just pulled the fuse from the panel inside the car under the steering colum. Sure my light stays on but who cares b/c the system locks up straight according to Nissan.

Also I cut the speedometer wire coming from my gauge cluster to the ecu and that removed my speed limiter but then a rev limiter kicks in at 5000 rpm's in 5th gear. Does the same thing happen when you do it to a Skyline or no?

3, Currently I'm using a stainless steel oil feed line from my sending unit to my turbo. Now I needed to get the proper fittings to use it of course and since I've heard the R32 gauge can sometimes crap out, I want to be safe and install an aftermarket oil pressure gauge (electrical NOT mechanical) with sending unit.

What size fittings would I need and how much line would I need?

4, If I wanted to use an SAFC 2 with GTR 444cc injector's (with resistor pack), what is the correction for them? See on my 240 the kade injector's are 270's and the SR20det injector's are 370's. So the correction (untill you hit the dyno) is -27% in both HI and LOW throttle maps. I suck at math so is anyone here doing this and if so, what's the correction for the GTR injector's? Just untill I hit the dyno for a proper tune. Also has anyone here used, or know of anyone, who used RX-7 FC 550cc injector's? What would be the correction for these? They are top feed, low impedance.

5, Does anyone have a link for the R32 RB20det engine/wiring manual? I found a link online but when I downloaded it, my computer would'nt open it b/c the file was corrupted. I have Adobe so it's fine if it's in a PDF format. I want to buy the actual manual but it was $150.00 plus shipping from ebay. I also found a couple of other links but they were zipped .bin files and my computer can't read those.

I appreciate this and as you see I have done some research and, to a degree, know what I'm talking about drawing from my experience with my 240. Just need a little more to put me over the top.

Take care everyone.

Cheers B)

you have to use the GTR hood release latch to fit gtr bonnet

if you want to run gtr injectors and get rid of speed limiter, consider getting your ECU remapped, because that is best way to remove speed limiter (or full aftermarket ecu)

Series 4 rx7 injectors work, but a few people have had problems tuning, because the amount of fuel they inject isn't that accurate. GTR injectors should be fine.

search on net for manual, there are a few people on ebay selling full manuals on cd.

Don't chop the speed signal wire. It messes with the steering weight, can cause issues with stalling and the hicas doesn't work. It doesn't automatically lock either, it actually flops around (for lack of a better term) when loaded up when cornering unless you shim it up.

The oil pressure gauge uses a pretty common tapered thread. You can get a tee piece from a hydraulic supplier and tap into the stock pressure sensor location. It is quite likely that it is the same size thread as your old KA seeing as rb and sr's have the same size thread but different factory sensors. Best to remove the sensor and take it with you (it's not a hard job).

The correction is 1- (270/440) or (270/550). Series 5 rx7 injectors are the ones you want, they dont need a dropping resistor. Idle will be crap unless you get some decent aftermarket management. safc will probably run either of your choices ok, except for the idle of the 550s.

Hey thanks a lot guys.

Your answers are more indepth and really help clear things up.

I'm going to remap my ecu and just get a HICAS lock up bar.

As for the GTR hood and grill, that's great I'll just have my buddy make sure to snag the latch too.

Just one thing though BHDave, I don't get what you mean about the corrections for the SAFC? :cheers: How would I figure out what to imput on the HI/LO maps as in, what number would I use?

Now sorry but I had one more question.

How have you guys fixed the spark problem when running higher boost? I've been told to shorten the gap to 0.8 on the plugs so they don't crap out on me.

Let me say thanks again as I have really appreciated your help with this stuff.

Oh and I appoligise for posting this in the wrong section and thanks to the Admin or Mod for moving it in to this section instead of deleting.

Edited by sidewazegtst

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