MANWHORE

ish, how much did that cost if you don' tmind me asking. I've always found natrad to be quite pricey in the pricing department. I had to get a radiator for my daily driver - split an end tank. They were keen in selling me a radiator saying that they didn't have a tank that just fit the oem radiator. radiator costed $550!!! Not a big fan - the quality is fairly ordinary too - it's already rusting and the paint is peeling

I'm going to say DEPENDS ON THE TURBO. If you have 1 turbo, you have twice the number of cylinders pushing air. If you have 2, you have half the exhaust gas. So a single might make more torque than the two if it's bigger than the two put together...blah blah

what stronzo said. AT ones have a built in tranny cooler section.

1. Use their banjo bolts 2. crush washers are good. Nissan DID NOT use crush washers stock, and they didn't leak. But I like crush washers - about $20 for the whole set at pirtek. I put the thin side up towards the bolt head (if you think about it, the turbo has a bigger edge, bolt head might be smaller). Usually the crush washers are really small though so would work the other way too. 3. water line behind the block is easy. I just did one the other day. The line reaches around the other side of the block and joins with this other rubber hose. What I do, is I undo both brackets, then take that rubber hose off too from the other side and pull it through. The bracket on the side can be undone easily, the other one, I used a spanner that I cut in half, and put down through the coilpack cover gap.

From memory, 1 timing belt tooth works out to be something like 7 degrees or something like that. Way too muhc to be of any use. that's where the adjustible cam gear comes into play The reason why I was brief, is because these questions are asked fairly often. Material has been covered much better in those threads that anyone would CARE to answer in here, since they've already answered it a few times. You'd get a better result by having a read - there's heaps of info

yeh, they're good.

no worries. that's lucky, coz the hoses are easy to get and cheap. I hope you replaced them both (just for safety). on the later models, you have to get those special expensive nissan ones with the funky built in clip.

Haha. You know why I say that? I have a friend who has an r32, and he keeps saying f**k this is ugly, should have bought an r33 like yours. Everytime I hear him say that, I crack up so hard. We actually have an r32, so it's not like I hate them or anything. I've noticed that r32 owners always start first in saying calling 33s boats, whales etc. so I figured ...

ah ok. On the ugly poos, have a look under the boot carpet. you'll see this squarish plate with 4 bolts on it. look on the right hand side of the boot from memory (not under thetyre) Once you undo that, you'll be able to tell if it's the tank seal or one of the lines. The r33 has special lines (not standard line with clamp - you know those self clamp ones). the ugly poos have standard lines with clamps (from memory). if they're split/perished, just replace it.

Yeah, nbp. I'm certain that my 'picking up' of fuel is identical to before the pump swap. Driving the fuel down (not that I do it often), it reaches the same level as before. i.e. I don't suffer from 1/4 tank syndrome

I wouldn't stress too much about the orientation of the sock mate. My car, and others that I have installed, as well as many others that are running gtr pumps on the forums are alright. This orientation fits the best with that bottom plate still in place. I'm not sure if this affects it, but my pump still has the bototm plate in place, and it is sitting on the gtst rubber ontop of this plate. i'm sure that would help hold the pump steady more. Maybe the orientation that I have it clears the tank. It seems like you're spending a fair amount of time doing this. If you want, I can put you through to an honest workshop near our area that do an absolutely great job.

simon, I agree with you mate. That's why I was asking him to check the cap. there's another option on the ugly poos. the r33s have plastic tanks so they won't rust, but the ugly poos have metal tanks. Could very well be a rusted tank somewhere. More likely to be the tank seal though, or perished line

Nah, I'm pretty sure the rubber is different. Radiator hose is water only. Cheapest option (won't cost ya anything) is to grab some of that hose that came iwth the cradle, slit that, and put it in. Have you put that extra clamp in yet? Have you put in a new tank seal yet?

Haha, you're right. But, the seafood buffet at Sheraton on the park in sydney will pop pop pop, yuuuuuuuuuum

Buzzing - depending on how loud it is - 1 person's loud is another person's quite. Either nitrile rubber or EFI hose. You can buy big EFI hose and slit it. Cheapest nitrile rubber (never had a problem with it decomposing) is buying a pair of nitrile rubber gloves from supercheap auto. About $10. I just cut them up and use that. I still say no rubber is required. I dont' have rubber, my pump sounds the same as any gtr pump in a gtr. The only time i've ever used rubber is when i was doing something special. not just a normal hose clamped pump install.

davo, it'll fit mate. You see how the stock actuator has the kink in it but the bracket is straight? the hks actuator has a kink in it. So it pushes that big knob out sideways. I know that it fits on r33s easily. Should also fit on the r ugly poo. I know there's less space to the strut tower, but it should fit.

agree with cc 100%. I only ever put the car in neutral if i'm going slow or if i'm going down hill (not good driving practice, but it's quiter since i'm running striaght pipe - no mufflers)

How about just have no mufflers instead? it's cheaper and better. save the money for some nice food

I take absolutely no responsibility for this. But can you test if what has dropped is petrol? Test is using the way that you think best (of course, make sure you don't do anything illegal or dangerous) You didn't say what car, but if it's an r33, or an r ugly poo, take the inspection plate off in the boot and have a look. that's where petrol would normally leak from (unless if you've got a hole in your tank somewhere else.

Absolutely awesome diy grigor. I've got a compressor on my daily driver with a worn bearing. I'm not sure if it's just the bearing that's worn, or if the compressor is also seized though. It's hard to describe, but the 'rest' of the pulley (the bit that's inside of the free spinning part when the belt is off). Is that part meant to be turnable by hand? or is it meant to be f'ing tight? Also, how much does it cost for the work to change the bearing? You in sydney and know anyone that does the bearing by any chance? In addition to the bearing, if it is seized, which is the part that's seized? can that part be changed alone? The reason why I ask, is because I have a freind who got a compressor reco'd and it was $600. Bit exxy considering i'll need to get gas, blah blah on top of that too.

Flicking guage sounds to me like the gauge and/or temp sensor is faulty. Best way for you to find out, is to get an aftermarket gauge with sensor. Some of the cheap ones are only around $50. That'll save you pulling out the waterpump to find out that it's fine. You dont' have to keep the guage permanently in your car, but just put it for testing purposes. That's where I'd put my money. I've had something similar to that on another car before.

Unless you're aiming for over 250rwkw, I'd say 2nd hand motor would be the best option. I dont' like the idea of buying questionable condition motors from the wreckers. Having siad that though, they do have WARRANTY! many people have no dramas with the stock motor at 250 rwkw. cheapest option and it'll have you running in almost no time.

25 says 45 v nissan on the compressor. the r ugly poo turbo says nissan motor 16v

CCCP, I hit the redline all the time. Even though it's at 7200 rpm, seems to go a little higher - maybe about 73-7400 rpm, then it comes back down, like it bounces. I like the sound it makes. I know what you're asking but matey, don't increase it at all.

hehe, ben, wasn't saying you were being cheap matey just thought that maybe since you were doing it at night you didn't have enough. Mine was installed when the tank was full. I didn't have to even put my hands in the fuel. Spent a bit over 1 hour to install it, no noise, no nothing. good flow. perfect.