MANWHORE

edit: what grigor said to the other guy who's batt only lasts 1-2 days. Mine did that when it came over from japan. It had sat on the dock for a long time and the battery died. get a new batt

haha, you guys are mean. it is probably someone's car.

My feet are size 13. I find it hard to move my heel across. It just goes to where the clutch is. What I do, is I put my foot in the middle of both pedals, then I can press both.

I use petrol. Considering that the car eats petrol normally, I can't see it doing any harm even if there's the a slight petrol fume. After I wash it, the smell is usually gone after like a couple hours anyways.

In otherwords, he's saying read birnies post at stockish boost levels, I found that changing actuators with an ebc didn't really do much in terms of spool time. What it did do is it made it hard to make it slightly over wath the actuator is rated to e.g. with the r32 actuator (11ish psi), it was harder to run 12 psi than with the rb25 actuator.

In regards to whether it is a worthwhile performance upgrade if you have a working r33 turbo - not really. Not really worth the money for minimal minimal gain. If you had a busted turbo then sure, why not go for an r34 one since it's newer. For a 34 turbo, you're looking at paying around 450 (cheaper if you're lucky). save that money towards an aftermarket turbo instead of going for 5-10 kw (if even). I've ran a 34 turbo before, and difference was minimal.

Be careful what you get yourself into. just having a look at the lines etc is ok, if you just want to change the washers if they're leaking from there. But if you're going to do the gtr turbos, it's a massive job (my friend's car still isn't finished) compared to doing a turbo on a gtst.

r34 coolers used to be cheap as chips before all you guys jumped onto the train. My first one costed me $80. my second one was $60. My third was 120. I'd hate to think what the next one will cost.

nothing new that they've found out. daughter board is not hard

going rate seems to be around 300-350$ for remove and refit including coolant

They usually do ben because of the tight space you're working with (either hit the rad fan and have to trim it more, or hit the bonnet). Hitting the bonnet doens't necessary possess a problem. My strut brace touches the shield thing, and apart from marking it (putting an indentation in it, it deosn't do anything). In regards to cutting the fan, i never noticed it running much hotter (not my car), but I have noticed that it CAN make wear the fan bearing wear quicker (since the fan is no longer balanced).

oh yeah, black would be good.

not all r34 turbos have the larger rear housing. Straight fit though.

It's not the cat. something in relation to the boost control system has been disturbed.

in (as long as it will work with my apexi pod and bracket that came wiht the apexi pod)

woohoo, awesome. It's always nice to find someone in 'the industry' instead of paying overinflated store prices. Way to go rob

chris, (it's chris here ) when it's time for you to do it, i'll recommend you someone good I do the oil, just so that the turbo has the best chance of surviving. No old seady oil. I find doing the oil is easier. I have to jack my car up and put it on stands to do the oil (it's low). Since i've got it jacked up for the turbo, doing the oil makes no difference. Doing the oil and fitler wiht the turbo saves me an hour of time muckign around jacking up.

Newk, some really excitign knowlegeable stuff you've posted here. My car exhibits exactly the same doozy that wogs' car does. Might have to see ya during holidays (last exam is the 20th), so if you're free

You're really lucky hey, so are you still putting cam gears into your car? or not scnie you're giving it to your dad now?

I'm pretty sure I used the same pinout as you. On my car, I think it was boost solenoid, and injector 1 ground. Check your unit, check the soldering. make sure you didn't stuff anything. sorry I wasn't more helpful

That's not true. The only output that the iebc controls is the boost solenoid. At idle, whatever the solenoid does, it won't affect running at all. you're not making any boost at idle, so it won't affect anything. The only thing an untuned iebc does wrong is it doesn't keep the boost at the level you set it (even then, it still drives, you just have to use your foot to control boost)

I'm running a jaycar iebc on mine. I'll just ask you some questions first. Have you hooked the unit up to power by itself? does it work? turn on? no funny business? You didn't cut the injector wire did you? you just spliced it on? I lost the ecu pinout when my computer died.

Hey wogs Well, once you get it bolted on etc, it will probably be an upgrade (being a garrett turbo with steel wheels, you shoudl be able to run more boost). But we're not sure if it even is t3. If it's not, it won't bolt up to your mani. You'll definitely need a new dump pipe (or at least have the flange changed on it). You'll most liekly need new oil/water lines (like other garett turbos) i.e. if it even is watercooled, otherwise just oil lines IC piping may or may not bolt up (looks like it should)

Incorrect. It's NOT NOT NOT an r32, 33 or 34 turbo. this has 5 bolt dump pattern. the gtst turbos have 6 bolt. Looks like it's either a gtr turbo or a t25/t28 from a silvia or something. That is about as far from a stock nissan turbo as you can get. r33 turbo says nissan 45 v on the comp housing. r ugly poo says nissan motors 16v

so at a very minimum, you're looking at least at the cost of a new fuel pump, ecu, tune, turbo, clutch (won't handle the power), tyres (traction for the power), maybe wheels, diff (better traction), suspension (traction), exhaust, cat, intercooler and boost controller. Injectors and MAF would be recommended too to take full advantage.