silva33

It takes about 5 mins.... 1. Disconect the 2 hoses from the standard boost solenoid which is silver and behind the airbox. 2. there should be 3 hoses.... 2 joined by a T piece and another by itself.. Remove the T piece 3. Place the boost controller between the turbo (actuator) and the hose comming of the intercooler piping. the third hose, simply plug off with a screw.. I think the arrow on the boost controller should be pointing towards the turbo.. but i cant 100% remember... It is really easy... just take it easy when testing it as if u have not installed it correctly your turbo will boost until it goes pop. good luck

I have had the same situation happen to me... i did not accept the car untill i was happy and the insurance company backed me the whole way... Id say call the insurance company and let them deal with it, they wont be stuffed around like you may be if you try to deal with it in person.

im in close to oakleigh and have a silver R33...

i have a similar problem in my r33, i have an eclipse double din unit with tv gps etc and a "VTR" intup however i cant find where the input actually is...??? i have looked under the carpet and found a small box with 3 3.5mm plugs in it 2 of which have the anntenas in them and the other i have no idea what it is for... any ideas? what sort of inputs are usually used in these screens as i cannot fint any rca inputs..

I had my car tuned at ICE with the PFC... Just PFC, FMIC, Exhaust on 12psi It was knocking on the top end of 2nd and 3rd so i took it back.. Nigel told me it was totally safe this time (2nd Tune) but the car still shows the knocking light flashing when in low revs in higher gears... The light comes on even when i lowered the boost to 9psi which to me says the car is running to lean? Without a Hand Controller and only Nigel telling me it will be fine, how sensitive is the knock sensor on the PFC? The dyno really graph really doesnt tell me much whit the ratios at 12-12.5:1 on the first tune by ICE... Any ideas?

that price for the PFC was fitted and tuned on a dyno... as the fitting is 2mins work the $400-500 of that $1500 is for tuning... anyway, thats what i paid, from a well known tuner... (add more for a hand controller)

i think those prices are very high.. Im in Melbourne however I believe the following would be closer to the mark: Apexi PFC: $1500 Fitted and tuned Front Pipe and Highflow Cat: $600 fitted FMIC: Max $1500 Boost Controller: $80 Prices are for new items. With what you already have as well as Computer, Cooler and Exhaust you should be close to the 200rwkw mark with better fuel economy. That is my current setup on 12-13psi and i am currently getting about 12L/100km city driving and 9L/100km freeway. You will notice a huge difference in the way the car feels.

i dont think it would be the steering rack as the noise is very clear and is 100% coming from the steering column just behind the steering wheel.. Well i hope it isnt the steering rack....

thanks guys... ill have the car standard apart from the front mount and the exhuast, however i am going to pay the $30 ish for a db test and if it passes ill weld the silencer on as the EPA said this was fine to do so. if it fails ill buy a stock muffler and have them install that. My only concern in how to reconnect the stock boost solenoid... there are 2 hoses... which 2 are connected together by the T-piece and which one connects to the solenoid on its own? am i right in saying that the hose from the turbo connects to the top of the solenoid and the other 2 hoses are connected together via the T-piece and then to the bottom plug of the solenoid? I am really desperate for this info as i would assume if it is not connected together it would not meet emissions? Also, how strict are the emissions? would an R33 GTST with only front mount and full exhaust pass easily?

thanks ill have to get the mechanic to look at it as the car seems to drive fine the noise just worried me as i was planning on taking it to the day at Winton this weekend..

its and R33 GTST and it sounds like it is comming from right behind the steering wheel. i havent really noticed if it is louder stationary or in motion. I have not touched the car or steering wheel at all, but it is quite loud.. Does anyone have any idea of how to check out the steering column? it has an airbag..

My car has just started to make a loud clicking sound from the steering column when i turn it left and right.. the steering wheels seems to be very tight with no play it is at all. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? im starting to get worried about it.... thanks

[WLDCRD]: if i put the stock ecu in the car and then replace it with the Power FC, does the PFC retain the settings i have or will i have to dyno the car again an tune it again? from whjat people say, they really know what they are talking about at the EPA testing centre. anyone have any pics of the stock boost solenoid so i can plug the hoses back up? There are 3 hoses from the standard solenoid, and at the moment with the bleed valve one is blocked, will i have to reconnect it?

i rang the EPA and was told they will be going over the whole car and as mentioned above, the silencer is illegal however can be welded at the screw but it need to be welded in a way that it cannot be just removed with the tap of a hammer. I suppose it all depends on the tester on the day. therefore ill leave the front mount and the exhaust but ill have to remove the computer and the boost controller.. Any idea on how to reconnect the standard solenoid?

This is a first offence but what worries me is that they gave me an appointment to go to the EPA testing centre in Mcleod... Hence why i am asking how to bring the car back to standard. It is an Air and Noise test the notice states. Inark: It is just a silencer in the rear muffler with the one srew to secure it, with it in the car is very quiet, so much so that i can bearly hear it so i believe i will be under 90db but i dont know about the legallity of the silencer itself. does it need to be tack welded into place? I wanted to reconnect the standard boost solenoid just to be sure as it is only a 10 min job but i cant remember the correct way to do so. any ideas?

I just got an EPA notice in the mail.... I have an Apexi Power FC Boost controller Pod Exhaust Im going to put my silencer back in the exhaust and the stock airbox, do i need to put the stock computer back in? and how do i reconnect the standard boost solenoid? i realise that there are 3 pipes from the standard boost controller and with the bleed valve i am only using 2 2 of them with one blocked off. So how do i reconnect it for the EPA test? does anyone have any pics of how it is done? any help is much appreciated..

dont get me wrong, im not having a go at Kyp, im simply letting people know what i was told when i did the ring around about ATP.. With almost anything in life you have both good and bad reviews... in this case i agree with most people just slapping the turbo on and having the "sheel be right" attitue. These sorts of reviews i tend to ignore as it is not a true indication of how the turbo setup would run. The comment i made about the 'dead motor' was more to do with the turbo itself and not the way it was tuned... if you would like to know the tuner i called, please PM me. (the exhaust housing being too small was the reason?? i may be way off but as i said, what he said went over the top of my head) Kyp recomended Genesis to tune the car so i would say give them a call and see how the different stage highflow setups work from a their point of view. Whistla: How did the stage 1 go on your car? performance wise, was there a decent amount of power to gain?

I was speaking to a reputable tuner regarding the highflow turbos and was told not to go down that path as he has seen quite a few cars come in witht a highflow on the verge of a dead motor... i cant remember the exact reason why, as it pretty much we over my head.. I like to know as well though as people say they are great and others say to stay away... very confusing.. I have only heard good things about the GCG turbos though..... Hope that helps.

I have the 326's, as above, they are crap!!! i have 265/35/18's on the back and the first 3 gears are useless in the wet and i have never been able to take off hard... stay well away!!!

id love to come out but it is my first event so i would be VERY slow!! hope to see you all there...

i couldnt make the meeting but attended the cruise.. i had a great time! it was good to meet some of you guys and i hope to be at the meeting soon to sign up! Thanks for a good night. Dave

i have no idea what is making the noise, the top clamp is very tight... now that u mention it i might see if there is a gap between the spacer and the top plate / clamp..? does the fact that it is solid have anything to do with it? does it matter if the 'wave' washer is under the spacer rather than over it? its difficult to fix as i have no idea what is actually the casue..

i am having the same problem, (c's Copy) noisy short shifter in the higher RPM... there isnt a rattle, just plenty of gearbox noise... it works great just seems like all noises from the gearbox are amplified. any ideas on how to fix it?

i actually have one, it is a trust unit, which uses the factory cooler piping and makes good power for the mods i have... i picked it up from a wrecker so i have no idea where else to get one...

i have the cooler you describe with the end tanks on the same side on my R33 GTST.... it is a trust cooler and fit straight in, mm perfect with no bumper mods.... But i have never seem another skyline with a cooler like it... i reckon they are great! the engine bay looks totally stock and there is no pipe running under the cooler itself!