The Dan

screamer or butterfly, both are illegal so why f**k around with the butterfly, just run the screamer. There is 0 performance gain from a screamer so you would only be doing it for flatcapper appeal

Wow, Nissan are idiots now. Yavuz needs to wise up. The listed plug is a 5 but most people go to a 6 when they wind up the power slightly. 7's are for when you are making 250-350kw at the wheels.

You could start by getting the correct plug. They have a heat range of 5 as standard. Why in the world would you put a 7 in...unless you are making 500hp. Check to make sure your fuel filter is not blocked and make sure the pump is still well alive

It's definitely your oil filter leaking vacuum then

If you could measure or at least give a more accurate description of where the mark is, it would be a great help

If you were in Brisbane I can bench test them for you. I don't know anyone in Melbourne with the same equipment. There are resistance checks you can do as above was suggested but even they can be misleading at times.

+20 It's not a stupid idea but it's stupid if you try it. People are always trying to re-invent the wheel. You don't need a 26 head on a 20 block to make power. Just because it's a 26 head doesn't mean you are automatically going to be able to rev it to 11k and make 1000hp. Thats a crock of shit. And as far as revving an engine to 11k, It's not just the cylinder head that limits rpm. Crankshaft, rod length, stroke etc all play a role. With a cast crank you are not going to safely rev a 20 past 9500rpm. It's like putting a 20 head onto a 30 block. Stupid. Increasing compression ratio in a forced inducted engine is as simple as increasing boost. Plus chamber sizes are far too different to make it work. Going that way is more practical than 26 head on 20 block though. The valves will hit the edges of the block on the way down and you won't get the head gasket to seal. But if you have unlimited funds and want to make something that no one else has, then go for it. You will have an engine that people will say 'wow, that's impressive' but then will wonder why their mum's corolla can nearly keep up with it.

Your problem is wastegate actuators. Not BOV's

+1 on the standard air box with a good panel filter. But as for illegal, this is not so. It's not the chassis and it's not structural. There is already a hole there and it is not illegal to enlarge it.

I have run this setup on a few cars of mine. The upside is you will get a noticeable increase in power. Downside is you will have to clean the filter regularly. If you mount it really low (level with the base of the front bar) then it will suck up water when you go through a puddle. If you mount it flush with the metal on the other side of the panel, then you will not have any issues. It also pays to make up a cheap deflector out of Alloy rail. Shaped like a U on it's side, you can mount the deflector around the filter to stop any water from splashing up. It will also help to direct air into the filter. This requires a little bit of thought in it's setup and is not necessary but a good idea.

Do any of the mods we do justify the cost? Not really. If you wanna build a tough 20, then you're going to build one. And you wouldn't bother putting a 26 head on top...way too much work reducing the combustion chambers. The only downside to a 20 in the cylinder head department is the valve sizes. Fix that and put decent cams in and away you go. 20's are stronger, rev higher more safely etc, etc. It's like the CA18, everyone says they are a piece of shit 'go for the SR', but they are wrong. A fresh CA will outdo a fresh SR with similar dollars spent

It's a GTR, there are never 'no problems' But yes, it will fit

And I'm also saying that if you aren't going to fork out for the overpriced brand name item, then what is the difference between that one and the second hand HKS one? It might as well be a HKS as it's not going to matter

No, I'm saying that with all the copies out there these days, you can't expect to be able to identify something that has no markings. Otherwise what seperates the brand name stuff from the copy stuff? And it's not a HKS

Looks like a Nismo one. Or it could be HKS. Maybe Apexi? Does it really matter? If you are in a position to be buying a good brand name intercooler then buy one. If you are going to be cheap and buy a second hand one, then it's pot luck. There are no brandings on it anywhere that can be seen in the pictures so anyone will be guessing.

huh?

To start with, you are going to meed an N1 block to go safely to 87mm. You can still do it on the standard RB26 block but I have heard of people who have had issues doing it reliably. The extra 0.5mm is not going to make you any more hp. The turbos you'll need are 707160-5's and you need to wring their necks to get them there, or you can go for the 707160-10's and do it a little more easily. The head gasket doesn't need to be 1.8mm, in fact no more than 1.5mm should be ok. It really depends on how much hp you want to make on pump fuel, if you want to make 700hp on pulp then maybe stay with the 1.8mm gasket and put up with the lower compression. For the camshafts, you won't need anything bigger than 260 x 9.15mm. Standard camshafts on a GTR are pretty good and you could probably leave them, but there are still advantages to be had by upgrading.

Most if the time when you change something, then have issues, it's whatever you changed that is causing the issue. Check continuity from the afm to the ECU and if you come up ok there (make sure you are twisting the wires around and wriggling the loom while checking) then take the AFM's back to wherever you got them 'reconditioned'.

Sam 0425818755

Have you unwrapped the filter from the plastic? Don't laugh, I've seen it before Also, sounds like you are having fuel system issues. Pump, filter etc. Clean the AFM and check for air leaks in the system first but I think you will still need to check your fuel system before you get to the bottom of it.

What about Champion?

I would assume they will be in the exact position any GTR would have them. Behind the front bumper ont he driver's side (RH side). I have never gone looking for them in a 260RS though so check there first. Not sure on the upgrade options either but take some pics once you find them and I can tell you i they are GTR or not

And just to add to that, different manufacturers use different clearances measured at different areas on the piston. Some measure clearance from the centre, some from the crown, some from the bottom of the skirt etc. That is why it's important to read their instructions

Read the piston manufacturers instructions. I always use their figure plus half a thou on top. You can go 1 - 1.5 thou if there is nitrous involved but other than that, stay close to their instructions. Never make up your own clearances because they seem right. HKS run some fairly tight tolerances on some of their stuff but others are loose. IT ALL COMES DOWN TO THE MATERIAL THE PISTON IS MADE OUT OF.

Yes you will. You will need a spacer of around 10-15mm and slightly longer studs to hold it together.