The Dan

Why yes Dan, yes I have.

You haven't really given any good pictures of part numbers. The M24 means nothing. The A/R on the rear means nothing. The picture on the comp cover with a serial number is about the closest thing you have to identifying it. There might also be a small tag attached in the centre of the turbo that you could see. Need numbers off that also. If there is nothing there, then just google that serial number on the front. You are likely to come up with the turbo.

There's a $6500-$7k build right there. When does the noise occur? What sort of noise? and when you took it there, was it because it had a noise you wanted to be identified?

Carbon buildup should not effect the magnetism as the magnetic field stretches through this easily. If they are high flowed properly they should be steel wheeled on the turbine but somone could have just machined the front cover and put a bigger compressor wheel on. The best way is to post up the part number on the turbo, take the comp cover off (6 bolts I think) and measure the exducer and inducer to be certain. Series 1 R32 RB20DET = Bush bearing/ceramic turbine Series 2 R32 RB20DET = Ball bearing/ceramic turbine Series 3 R32 RB20DET = Ball bearing/ceramic turbine Series 1 R33 RB25DET = Ball bearing/ceramic turbine/alloy compressor Series 2 R33 RB25DET = Ball bearing/ceramic turbine/nylon compressor (may or may not exactly be nylon but plastic) Series 3 R33 RB25DET = Ball bearing/ceramic turbine/nylon compressor (as above) Series 1 R34 RB25DET = Ball bearing/ceramic turbine/nylon compressor Series 2 R34 RB25DET = Ball bearing/ceramic turbine/nylon compressor I'm going to leave the GTR's alone as there is too much contradicting info on the matter.

What ECU do you have? Go into 'settings' then 'cranking' and have a look at the 50deg and 80 deg settings. Change the 80deg to 9.0 and the 50deg to 10.0 and see if it starts easy for you.

Unfortunately you will find that everyone is an expert in this area. It is extremely easy to absorb 10k in an engine build so without seeing the quote with parts it's definitely impossible so say.

feel free to attach this post to the bottom of the thread in question as it may help if anyone is searching for info later.

Hello all, I thought this would be more appropriate in a thread of its own. I had a task to accomplish at the request of one of my customers. He wanted to know if the turbine wheel on his pair of R34 GTR turbos was ceramic or steel. This was so that he could decide whether to upgrade to some -7's or stay with the stockies. At the risk of doing myself out of a sale, I always stay honest with my customers at all times and will always persue the truth no matter what the risk or consequence. Honesty is the very best policy in my opinion. After many people told me I was wrong, I was beginning to think maybe I was but the evidence was confusing to say the least. I was also told by the manufacturer that it was, indeed, steel. This was direct from Garrett. I was, again, told I was wrong but I needed to prove conclusively that it was either steel or ceramic. At the risk of looking like a wanker I persued it further so that I could give my customer a definite answer. I spoke with Garrett 3 more times on the matter and also spoke to Heat Treatments about testing the metal. I had people checking data for me from Garrett until finally speaking to the right person. The first person I spoke to was incorrect. The second person told me, without a doubt, that the R34 GTR has a ceramic wheel on the turbine. It is still ball bearing and is the only one of its kind. The conclusion is - R34 GTR turbos are ceramic turbine. They are the only ceramic turbined ball bearing turbo ever made by garrett. I am sorry if I have misled anyone with information I provided on this matter. I was led to believe by experts in their field, that the fact was different. I also said I would apologise if Garrett were lying to me, which they had unintentionally done so. I am sorry for this. I am also sorry for dragging user DirtGarage down in multiple threads as a result of my pigheadedness in my quest to seek the truth as this argument would not have occured if I had received the correct information and not spoken until I had received it. Kind regards, Daniel

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Yeah, I think that's where a lot of people are confused. The manifolds aren't a power restriction so much as a restriction of response.

I have a set of S2 JJR coilpacks here if JJ won't take them back. These were in the car for 2 weeks. I can sell the other set as series 1 which is what I intended to do with this other set if that helps.

What does the TPS look like? If it is square with two plugs coming off the same side then it's S2, if it's rectangular with one plug coming off the side and wires going to another plug then it's series one. Series one coil packs have 4 little bolts holding them to the bracket, Series 2 only have 3

Those are called oil baffle plates. They basically help to prevent oil from entering the ventilation system. Oil that is splashed up from the camshaft turning at high rpm.

I wasn't berating you. Sorry if it came across that way. Just saying that everyone has an opinion on these forums but they are not always founded on reality.

The problem is, though, that sometimes people misinterpret a negative feedback or form their own opinion based on what people say. This may or may not be the reality, though. Internet forums can be an anti-social place at times but usually it's only because of this misinterpretation that we come unstuck. There is nothing wrong with the JJR coilpacks and even if you know of someone who has a problem with them, they are still not junk. JJ back up their warranty on rightful claims so worst case scenario you endure the slight miss fire for a couple of days. We cannot all make bulletproof products that meet every single persons demands but we can ensure that our products are well supported and that is exactly what JJ do.

Standard coils may or may not be better, but the JJR ones are certainly going to be better than stuffed stockies any day. Don't forget you can also buy the superspark brand.

Installed these in a customers car, missfire gone for two weeks. Missfire returned. Customer bought splitfires. Turned out the second missfire was due to ignition timing. He had the car dynoed with the JJR coil packs in and made 201hp, installed the splitfires on same day, half hour after the first run, car made 210hp with more midrange. He's selling the JJR's to suit s2 33 if anyone wants to give them a go.

Yeah still a bit deeper in pitch than a lifter noise. Usually lifters are a higher pitched tapping noise. You could be right though, it's so hard to tell these things when all you have is a youtube video. I hope is something simple. It's never nice when you find gremlins in your car.

Approx 480hp at wheels 1: Done 2: Done 3: You'd have to ask Jim about that as HE supplied the clutch and it was a standard SECO cover that he modified. 4: Done You can be absolutely certain the clutch in Anthony's car is not the same as this one. I'd just like to touch back on point 3. The SECO cover he used has a pressure plate made of cast iron. Every pressure plate made after the mid to late 90's is made from a Ductile cast iron. Xraying it will tell you this but you would assume he doesn't use inferior parts that were practically banned from this type of clutch for this very reason. Cast iron is riddled with cracks. It's in the nature of casting it. He uses second hand normal cast iron pressure plates in all of the full monty's he makes. They are ALL ticking time bombs.

Yeah, you are right Gervaise. I had another listen to it and it does seem like a forged piston rattle. Nothing serious if it's forged pistons inside but I would definitely be making sure you have it running for at least 2 mins before you drive it from cold.

Timing belt Timing belt bearings Water pump Alternator bearing VCT camshaft pulley dry Could be any of these things and more. When was the last time the timing belt was done? and if it was supposedly done before you bought it, just say NFI.

Nice, well in that case, you would have a chance to get this legal on your car as this car has undergone crash testing with that bonnet on it.

If the bonnet is factory fitted and complied (legally) in Australia, then it is legal. There is nothing to say the compliance shop is doing the compliancing correctly. I don't know of any Z-tunes in Australia so I doubt their bonnets would be ok.

Yeah mate, that's ADR69 which is : Full Frontal Impact Occupancy Protection. From memory, it only applies to vehicles after 1994 but you'll have to clarify with DOT on that one. There is another ADR, possibly 70-something. This means any vehicle manufactured before that ADR came out can have a fibreglass bonnet but not CF. This is direct from DOTARS who emailed me on the subject some time ago. In the case of the thread starter, your bonnet is illegal as it has not passed crash testing. Your vehicle is of the age that covers both ADR's restricting them. The only FRP bonnet allowed in QLD as far as I know are the Blitzbodykits ones. As for CF, Custom Carbon have the approval. There may be others but I don't know about them.

You won't even be able to start it with no cooler pipes on.