The Dan

Isn't the standard compression 8.5:1? It's been a while since I worked that one out but I was fairly sure it was.

To add to that. I'm about to remove the dump pipe to put a multimeter on the wheel. **EDIT** which is a stupid idea because I just found out they are inconel. lol. I have run a scribe over the blade, though, and it is shiny underneath. I rang Garrett back with my concern of possibly not being steel wheel and they confirmed again that it is 150% steel wheeled and that the inconel is non-magnetic and I will not get a resistance across it. I hope this information is useful to everyone. Also, if you have a different part number on your R34 turbo, then PM me the number and I will have it checked. Don't use the 144 number, use the 702 number as this is how Garrett number them.

Ok I had Garrett check the part number on the turbo I have here. The turbo is straight off a series 1 R34GTR Vspec. The turbine wheel is the same one used in the S15 turbo so they said it is steel. They also said that ANY GARRETT TURBO that has a ball bearing cartridge will be steel wheel. The R34GTR Turbos are all ball bearing and all made by Garrett. I'm having the exact dimensions faxed and emailed to me so I'll put up them when I can. The Garrett part number on this R34 turbo cartridge is 702987-3. It is a smaller turbo than a 707160-7.

It's actually RB25 Neo. The long metal gasket belongs to the inlet manifold where it goes against the cylinder head. The RB26 uses a paper gasket there. This means it could be RB20 or RB25 but then you see the rubber gasket/seal with the 6 holes in it. That is the plenum gasket that goes between the plenum and the inlet manifold. The RB20 one is different. So it has to be RB25. Then you see the gasket directly under the 3 bolt exhaust flange one. It looks sorta like a pair of binoculars, that's Neo only. Hope that clears it up for you.

I believe it would be important to reveal the outcome of my investigation. I will wait to hear what Denso have to say. I think it is important information that everyone can benefit from. I'm not here to sling rocks at Dirt, I just want proof when someone says I'm wrong.

I aim to please. You southerners always say give up but you have not really provided any proof that I am incorrect other than to say you have a mate in marketing who says it's an old trick. Gee I must be wrong if he said that. I spoke , in person, to a rep from the company and then a couple of hours ago I spoke on the phone to another one. I asked if the injectors were just an off the shelf Denso item. He said absolutely not!. He said again that they were made by Denso to their specs. I asked him to put something in writing so I could show you but he told me not to waste my time with wankers and he doesn't care if you don't want their injector because of it. He said they have nothing to prove or gain by doing such a thing. So this is an apology to you if he is lying to my face and if the guy in the states is lying to me over the phone. I am sorry if they are lying. But until you can PROVE that I am incorrect and they are lying to me, then why don't YOU give up and stop giving people misleading information. At least my comments have foundation to them.

How do RC Engineering make their injectors? They are the largest Injector manufacturer in the world and they do all of their work to customers' specifications just like in this case.

What's to say SARD don't use a similar or the same design for their injector? I will get confirmation from Denso as it is clearly the only way to convince you. All I am saying is they are not just an off the shelf Denso Injector. They may be the same as a SARD or HKS in their design but you wouldn't know unless you pulled them both apart. Spray pattern will only tell you half the truth and only a fool would believe that a comparison of spray pattern was going to reveal anything conclusive

Ok I called Power Enterprise in Japan first but no one spoke english there so I called them in the USA. Please go here http://www.powerenterpriseusa.net/products...ector/index.htm and read the top of the page. Co-produced with Denso EXCLUSIVELY FOR POWER ENTERPRISE I am still waiting for a call back from Denso Australia on an english speaking contact from Denso Japan who I can email. Would you like more proof or are you happy to accept that I am correct?

If they are in good nick and not too old you should be able to get $500-$600 for them only because it will cost $1000 for new ones. When the dollar gets better you might only be looking at around $400

This is old news. Denso have always made injectors for a large number of different companies but each company can specify design characteristics if they wish. Which is what I said. They are made by Denso for P.E to P.E specs. Pintle cut angle, travel distance and impedence are just a few things that can be changed when designing an injector. I never said P.E is better. I said possibly better. That all depends on the application it's used in and the characteristics put into each one. Not all injectors are just an 'off the shelf' denso item. While companies like HKS may be happy with the design Denso is using for their off the shelf item, they may not and want to make some changes based on their research. I can email Denso to confirm this if you really want me to.

I'd like to see where people are getting their information on R34GTR's having ceramic turbine wheels. I have information to the contrary by a reputable Garrett company and tomorrow I will have proof when I check the one I have here. Stay tuned.

Then forget 3L, it needs to be 4L...if you get 3L/min from that pump, it is dying. That pump will free flow 4-4.5L/min easily

Head tension will be the same or within a couple of NM of the earlier models. There was no advancements in gasket technology applied to the NEO so do them in a circular motion starting from the centre top, then centre bottom, then left of centre bottom, left of centre top, right of centre top, right of centre bottom etc. sequence of 40, 60, 80 and then 100nm. Once done, crack each one loose one at a time and retorque back to 100nm. So loosen, retorque, go to next one in circular motion etc. As for clearances for tappets, you will need to speak to a cylinder head reconditioner that specialises in RB engines. Try Chilton Engineering...he may point you to Marty White/John White http://www.hotfrog.com.au/Companies/Chilton-Engineering-Qld

Then if you have a new filter on it I would be putting my money on the fuel pump. It's easy to do a flow test. Just take the fuel feed line off after the filter and place it into a container of approx 1L or whatever...something that you can use to measure. Then apply 12V constant to the pump. You can either bridge the relay or just hotwire the feed direct to the pump. Just do it for 15second by stopwatch and multiply your result by 4. You need to see at least 3L/min but 4 would be better. That's a free flow test so it will tell you it's free flow capacity, if it is low then the pump is dying. It will explain the lean mixtures and the shit running condition, even the noise you described.

Not if you use the Tomei pump. The other ones, yes it is advised to use a collar but if revs are kept under 7500rpm it takes years to do any significant damage in most cases.

They are not all the same. Tomei is the best in the market for crank direct driven oil pumps for this engine. The rest are on par with each other although some flow variations are present between models. The N1 pump is a nice upgrade if you just want some cheap insurance, the other pumps are if you want to be making big hp reliably. EG. over 450hp at the wheels. Unless you are going for big numbers, stay with the N1, otherwise, JUN or Greddy, then if you want the Roles Royce go the Tomei for absolute insurance and peace of mind. And then Dirt Garage just advertised an external pump system so take a look at that.

Yeah that's where I would look first. If you come up trumps there, try doing a fuel flow test to see what your pump is doing and also don't rule out an injector problem. If you've got shit in two of the injectors, it could be causing mayhem when the engine actually needs the fuel.

Ask R31Nismoid, he's a forum trader so he'll be able to get you a good price on them

Denso is one of the leading injector manufacturers. That is all.

Power Enterprise are very high quality. Equal to or possibly better than SARD, HKS etc but no evidence to prove that of course. I spoke with Power Enterprises a few days ago at AutoSalon and saw some of their other products including the injectors. They have the injectors made to their spec by Denso so manufacturing quality is second to none, as far as development goes, they have an extremely good name in injectors. PWR ENT also do Kevlar Timing belts which are 700 times stringer than factory belts. Just in case you were wondering.

RB25

The more time you spend at 9000rpm the higher the street cred. Good point on the -5's too. 7500rpm will run them out to capacity more often than not. Just crank them up to 2 bar to get the power you want.

If you are not changing the rods or at least the weak factory rod bolts...leave the rev limit at the factory level. It's there because Nissan calculated it to be that. If you strengthen the rods or rod bolts then maybe add a further 500rpm but realistically it depends on how long you want it to last. Any RB revving over 8000 for long periods every day is going to be short lived....unless you pour a small fortune into development.

Why did you have to re-fill the oil if the Mechanic had just done a service. I'd say you've overfilled her by quite a long shot. Check your oil level on flat ground.