The Dan

Not really. JHH do the solid conversion for around $450 from memory. Once you factor in the cost of a complete 26 cylinder head with manifolds etc, the cost gets pretty high and the 25 head will flow the same anyway. Plus he'll probably have to alter the intercooler piping which adds more cost. The oil feed doesn't need to be blocked, you can just leave it

Yeah, they come standard at standard bore size. You can get them at different sizes like Angus said.

Yeah I heard the same here. ACL Bearings are the Nismo items. MAHLE just bought ACL too so we should see some more improvements to their already awesome product. Michael is also right in that the bearing should never touch the crank pin. The oil is what separates the two and if it doesn't, then you have different things to worry about. ACL bearings are made to the finest tolerances but it doesn't mean they cannot be incorrect. I send back rings and bearings all the time. Make sure you measure everything first and don't just take for granted it will fit to the spec you have purchased them for.

No worries. If you could just point out where I was putting shit on another product then I will happily remove my comment. I don't like to put shit on anyone so I am sorry if I have offended you by recommending Shane. We have tried two other local suppliers (Australia) for these adapter plates and neither fit which is the whole reason Shane went about making them in the first place. I'm sure the Pro engines ones fit perfectly and I never said they didn't so maybe pull your head in.

If you are running a charcoal canister, block the hoses with a pair of pliers when it hunts and see if this corrects the issue. Unplugging the VCT and idle change are a by-product of one another, unplug the TPS and the idle will change too, that doesn't mean the TPS is faulty though.

As for solid lifters. The only ways to convert to solid is to go with a manufacturer that makes a conversion kit. I've had engineers try to set up the Tomei conversion (JHH Engineering) and they can't. It doesn't work. The other way to do it is to convert your hydraulic lifters to solid. I don't think you'll get anyone here to tell you how it's done. I haven't got the time right now but might do tonight.

Unplug it

For your application, the piston to bore clearance should be 0.0025in - 0.003in including the coating so basically if you measure the skirt diameter inc the coating you should come up at 0.0025in piston to bore clearance measured half way down the skirt. How are you measuring the clearance? How accurate is your equipment? They are suitable for street use and will be slightly noisier than regular pistons but only very slightly. They shouldn't be extremely loud compared to stock but you will still hear them when the engine is cold. Mahle require tighter clearance compare to other manufacturers so possibly your machinist has set them half a thou over. But even then I wouldn't imagine it would be as loud as you are suggesting. (How loud exactly?)

What ECU do you have?

Pinched rocker cover gasket or missing the half moon seal at the back of the cover?

It is likely the original seal became hard and wore a groove in the surface of the crank. You need to remove the seal and put on a speedy sleeve. This will make the surface of the rear crank journal flat again. It should not leak after that

I don't understand what you are trying to ask

read the post above yours. Also, I am fairly sure it will have standard injectors as the factory ECU is still fitted according to this guy

I'll be in Ipswich on Saturday afternoon/night. Half the skyline QLD club will be around that area too if you want a mass inspection More than happy to have a look on my way through. My number is 0407 111 229 I'm off to work now so won't read any reply til tonight. Cya Cheers, Daniel

Where is he located? I might be able to organise a visit for a bit of a listen.

I'd say it would be closer to 365-370 engine hp

Yeah, the o2 sensor can cause the missfire at 2k as it enters closed loop mode then. Yes I have replaced that many. They were always just stuffed. Never 'on their way out', one minute the car would be running, next minute...stopped. We would sometimes get them come in with distributor failure, replace the distributor, car would run fine for ten minutes then the coil pack would die. So after doing 20 or so like that we just used to do coil pack and dizzy at the same time. What about the injectors? Have you had them cleaned professionally? Adding or subtracting fuel pressure will make a broad adjustment to all injectors fuel delivery, not just one. You sound like you are pretty much covering all bases though. Keep trying, you'll get it eventually

Keep in mind, also the dyno runs were done in 3rd so 4000rpm is only about 100k's I think

It's a full Tomei head. Lifters, valves, springs, cams etc. You are right on the cam specs Gerv. It does have adjustable cam gears. These are set at 0 and 0. I left that part for the tuner. I don't think the power is coming on too early for a T04Z. It pretty much makes 1 bar at 4000rpm from memory. Can you post up a pic of that dyno night run you showed me? or send it on Skype to me.

Leave the FPR there. Change your fuel filter Once you have put a new filter on have the injectors cleaned by a professional by removing them. Don't just run an injector cleaner through them. Sounds like you might have a faulty 02 sensor also. And FYI, Do you have any idea how many EF/EL coil packs I have replaced in my time? - when I was working for a RACQ workshop we were doing one a day for the 3 months I was there and I can't even remember how many I've done prior or after that.

I've supplied a GT28RS to someone with the same setup over here. They have made nearly 400hp at the wheels with power coming in strong at around 4500rpm. It holds all the way to their 10,000rpm redline. I think they would have better results with a 3076 or 30/35R. Obviously a 0.86 rear would be needed.

The only way you could blow a fuse while doing that would be to do the swap with the ign on. You didn't do that did you? Check all fuses, you're bound to find something there. In the event of no blown fuses, check continuity between the ECU and the AFM again. Then check the signal at the ECU. Also, sound stupid but make sure you have the ECU plugged in correctly. They have a habit of plug misalignment when pulling them down with the 10mm bolt. push down hard on both ends and re-tension the 10mm bolt if the plug went in further.

I may have missed it but have you posted a picture of where the wires are going on the AFM yet? I know you are saying they are all correct and chances are they are correct, but just to cross it off the list could you take a photo of the coloured wires going into the afm and the configuration that you have wired them please. Cheers, Daniel DAN, I am not referring to inside the ECU. The ECU itself does not suffer movement of internal components. The loom, however, can move around etc. The solder does damage at even 70deg (god knows how you are measuring that anyway). It is a well known fact that solder makes the wire brittle beside the soldered joint, no matter how good you are. Most of the crimp terminals you are probably referring to are the insulated red, blue, yellow ones? I am not talking about these dodgy terminals, I am talking about proper wire joining crimp terminals. Motec sell them and, like i said, Nissan, Toyota, Mazda etc, all use them on their looms. Unwrap a few and you will see. Also, if you want to do a little experiment, put a potentiometer on to you signal wire for the AFM and change the voltage 0.01V at a time and datalog the results. Let me know when have the results and I will point out every part of the map where you increased the voltage by 0.01V

I'm fairly sure the plenum won't bolt up to the Neo N/A cylinder head. Just leave the bottom end together and run the normal 12-14psi from the stock turbo. You won't have issues, it will actually make more power.

Just leave it. Plug in the ECU and drive away