The Dan

Read the post again....it says:

couldn't find anything as yet but am still looking.

Sounds great. I don't have much of a brain to pick though. But I will answer anything I can.

ok. Might not be anything to worry about but I would still get the catalytic converter checked at an exhaust shop. Are you suffering any loss of power or does it seem a little rattly? I wouldn't be too concerned but it does pay to have it checked out.

No, I get the same error message that Brazen said. Even on really small pics they go straight away but the error message still comes up.

Could you please explain that agian. I did not understand a word of that. What light are you talking about? the exhaust heat sensor?

Definately would be willing to come along if I'm welcome. I have a 32 so be nice please. I am a good source of information for anyone on the night and can help answer questions about mods or repairs if anyone should wish to do so.

Ok. I see what I can come up with and let you know.

I cannot upload images to the gallery in any format. I have tried several different pictures and several differnet times. What going on?

To check wheel bearings, first, jack up the car. Grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to feel for play. If there is not, spin the wheel around and put your hand or fingers on the lower control arm or the upper control arm (lower is better). You should NOT feel any grittyness or small vibrations when you spin the wheel around. It should be smooth and restriction free. Eg. with your fingers on the lower control arm, it should feel the same with the wheel spinning around as it does with the wheel not spinning around. With the rears it is a little more difficult. You cannot always hear a dodgy bearing with the wheels jacked up and driving at 70. Sometimes they need load on them to make the noise. I also advise against doing this as the vehicle may come off the stands and then you will be in a world of trouble. Check them the same way as you did the front. Compare each side. if one feels rougher than the other then replace it. If they both feel smooth and have no free play. Have a look at the tyres. They should be wearing perfectly. The noise should not change note on different road sufaces. Obviously except for the normal noise change when you go from rough to smooth or visa versa. But the bearing noise will always be the same. If it is louder on a smoother road then it is very much more likely to be a tyre noise as tyre noises get louder on smoother roads. Another option is to just pull apart all the bearings and inspect them by eye or have someone else do it for you. Or you can just replace all of them without checking. They aren't that expensive if you know where to look. They are all probably due for a change now anyway or at least a re-pack.

You don't need to do any research. These are the questions I need answered: How much horsepower/kilowatts do you want? eg. 300rwhp/210rwkw or engine hp/kw What are you using the car for? eg. Street/Drag or just Street or just Drag When do you want boost roughly? eg. 2200/2500 or 2500/3000 or later Do you want power early or late in the rev range? What Mods you engine has or is going to have including computers or exhaust etc.? Obviously, what car? Intercooled? and is it large, small, medium? Still running AFM or upgraded or no longer there? Custom exhaust manifold or standard? (custom exhaust manifolds give you more options) External wastegate or internal(limited to virtually 450hp)? With this information I can give you a range of turbo's or just one that will suit your requirements. The more picky you are, the less range. eg: if you want big horsepower: 5 or 6 decent turbos will suit if you want big horsepower but want it smooth delivery at 3000rpm then it narrows it down to probably only one. There is a turbo to suit every request and any turbo can be modified to suit your needs. So you give me info, I'll tell you what turbo/turbos will suit and you can do some homework on what I have given you and decide what you want. How does that sound?

Very discounted Turbo prices. Even with shipping from queensland you can still save up to $500. Read the post in the queensland section titled Turbo's for ALL.

For just bearings. Parts come to around $275. Labour would be around 6 hours and that would be including full measure of bearings and bottom end but WOULD NOT include R&R of engine. Having a bearing gone though, I would be investing a few more dollars for security reasons. ie. Metal particles form the bearings will be floating around your engine so it would be a good idea to get the block cleaned which virtually means head comes off and so-forth. You should also have your turbo's sent away to be pulled apart, re-sealed, inspected to make sure no metal particles have gone throughthe bearings - I cannot stress this enough. If you have an extra couple hundred then it is very definately worth it. Full gasket kit goes for around the $500-$600 mark and you might as well do rings while you are there. They will set you back roughly $120-$150 for a decent set. Obviously more labour would be added to the job for doing rings and head gasket. Around $4000 should do everything on a basic level so she's back to new again. TIP: If you can remove the engine yourself - do so. You will save a bit of money. Ask the people doing the job to give you a full itemised breakdown of all the parts and labour. Then go shopping and see if you can buy anything yourself for cheaper. Try lines like (make up a price that is a bit cheaper) I got quoted X by joe bloggs (who is their competition) You can save a lot of money this way. I have even gone so far as to write down fake quotes on a card that I got from another place to get it cheaper somewhere else. I don't wanna go through the moral issues involved here but it's up to you how you wanna save some money. Good luck. PM me if you have any questions or problems.

You can buy the bonnet struts from Repco or Supercheap. Made by Monroe. It would just be a matter of finding a mounting point for them.

35 is nothing. When mine was standard I used to be able to 90 after the light came on. But off topic sorry. I'll find out the pins to short to get diagnostic mode and get back to you.

Gee, I would have thought there would be more popularity than this. I might post up in another forum and see how it goes....anyone know what shipping costs involved in a turbo?

I see master....grasshopper has much to learn.

You can short two of the terminals on the diagnostic connector to get it into diagnostic mode. It will flash the engine check light and you can count the error code. I doubt it will log a code but you never know. Try pulling out the fuel pump and inspecting the sender unit. See if there is anything obviously wrong with it.

This 'Gallery' you speak of. Is it safe to use?

Why don't you trust Midas?

Hehe, turn everything on and pull the fuse. Whatever stops working. lol. I have never really worried about what the fuses were for. If it is blown, replace it.

Get it checked out by a professional. Go to a Midas or ultratune or someone like that who'll do a free inspection for you. Then you will know and you can decide from there.

380 kms here. 420 if I really baby it. Used to be 420 when it was standard so 450 outta a GTR is great.

Boing!

Nothanx!