The Dan

With all due respect though, would you run 600cc injectors in your 650hp car just because they will probably 'be ok'? Everything will suffer mechanical failure due to stresses eventually. There is no point putting a limit on them because at the price of a set of Spool rods, it's not even worth discussing their limit

Everything suffers mechanical failure at some point. Wait til they get older

If you read back over the comments you'll find only constructive help and advice for the first half until the person decided to be obnoxious about it. Then the usual stuff started....and rightly so The person also had their name as Alf originally and signed up with their first post as the top one for this thread. Later changing name to Jennifer. Second accounts are frowned upon I thought? Can we get an expose by a mod?

I'm pretty sure he's referring to the fact that it will always take longer to do them the first time so 3-3.5 hours isn't a fair assumption of the actual time it will take you. What's it been....1.5 days now?

It won't. They will all make some boost on free rev. Just not 10psi. More like 1-2psi and that's purely due to exhaust volume and turbine speed. If your ignition timing is retarded it makes the engine work harder/labour more and therefore will build more boost. Probably still not 10psi

Yep. Even the SR20 bush is the same. In fact, even the front wheel drive SR20 bush is the same and the input shaft on the trans doesn't even go into it. Not that you need to know that, but in case you are at a trivia night one night and that question comes up, you'll thank me.

either the gauge is wrong or you have timing issues.

Yeah mate, that's off and back on again Remove is about 3.5hrs for the pair

Yeah, you pay someone to do the job. Should be about $800 labour + gaskets

Haha yeah I just realised I said KW instead of HP. 500kw is virtually impossible for a 35R. 450kw is even a stretch for a GTX

1bar @ 3500-3700rpm on a 3L an 3900-4000rpm on a 2.5 is what I refer to as responsive From what I've seen of the Precision stuff, they are very good. And yeah I should be able to dig up comparo on Z and 35R vs 3788. I just gotta hit up Sean from EFI for the printouts Your GTX 'should' spool faster than the GT. They are also supposed to produce more flow. I'm yet to analyse the real world results though. And yes you will shit in 450rwkw....not sure about shitting in 500 though. It's generally always a push to get a 35R to 500rwkw. They can do it, it's still a push though

We generally go with the 0.89 rear for anyone wanting 550-600 max. Expect to have to push it though, these things run out of puff in the top end. The larger 0.99 rear will still beat the T04Z for response and make more power but it's only the 0.89 that matches the GT35R in response.

The real question is why go to all that trouble to create something that isn't a problem in the first place? The 3788 ticks all boxes in power and response if you want something up to 600whp on a 2.5-3L engine. The response is phenomenal considering its size. Despite all the tech data you have written above, there is maybe 1/100 people who will understand what you are talking about or even know how it effects real world results. The simple fact is - it works, and it works well. People can stay with the GT35R or use the X if they wish. We will continue to use the 3788 until something better comes along. We haven't broken one yet and we are pushing these things hard.

There is nothing wrong with 35R's. They have their place. And they will still beat a GT3788 in the under 500hp category. You can run a smaller housing and get away with it. Once you start wanting power though, it comes out of its element.

If you got something like a 0.75 A/R rear you wouldn't even notice the difference. 0.75-0.82 = f**k all difference. Too many people over think this stuff a 3L engine is borderline 1.00 territory so a 4L is definitely 1.00 or larger. You need to get gasses out. Forget about A/R, focus on housing flow. RB25-26 T3 housing up to 500hp, T4 for anything over that and the housing size not only marginally effects the boost response, it also effects HOW the power comes on. Smaller ratio housings come on very slowly but earlier, Large ratio housings are much snappier but later.

Then there's the easy way....... Drop engine in on standard mounts Call Blits Bodykits - custom bonnet ~ $1500 that's ADR approved..... Skids

I recently did a 26/30 for someone. It required an 8mm drop, bonnet support cut out towards the front and the twin turbo 'badge' shaved off the twin turbo pipe to make it smooth. With all that, it only just touches by a whisper. With a standard bonnet I'd say 25mm would see it clear with no other changes. I'm fairly sure RB20 mounts are the same height as GTR but I could be wrong. The other problem with lowering the engine in the subframe is the clearance between the sump and the subframe is only about 15mm at best from factory. You could possibly go 10mm of that but I reckon driveshaft clearances would have to be considered if you did

It's called cheap install

That earth wire is the main ECU earth. VERY important Also clamp off the big tube that goes to idle air control. The engine should stall. If it doesn't, you've got a vacuum leak at the charcoal canister. Delete it to diagnose

$1000 approximation on a sump and you are asking if it includes delivery? I wouldn't have a clue what delivery would cost you. I drive up to his front door, drop off a sump, tell him where I want fittings and what I wanna do with it and about 2-3 weeks later I get a custom GTR sump back

Yeah we did it on a 26/30 in a 34. Custom bonnet though. I did them at standard height. You can get them to sit about 10mm lower by cutting off the lump in the cover before you weld on the -12 fitting. I'll try to dig up a photo but I'm not sure where. There is also a mod using a landcruiser(?) engine mount which sits the engine another 10mm lower I think. I'm doing research on this at the moment

They do fit.....you just have to cut them down lower before you weld on the -12. Use a 90 deg on the intake side and a 120 deg on the exhaust side. Speedflow's new range of 100 series hose ends are all tight radius now. If they aren't tight enough then try Proflow or Aeroflow

Depends on what you are using the car for. Street only, just buy a Tomei baffle plate Any kind of track work we get Extreme Custom Engineering to make a custom pan and gated system to whatever size or shape or configuration we want. $1000-$1100 usually. They are in Brisbane. They do very good work though

Yeah no problem. The RB25DE grenade has a shorter pin than the RB25DET grenade. Turbo models were nodular cast iron, non turbo models and RB30 flywheels are regular cast iron. If you are going to be making torque/hp, you need to consider an aftermarket flywheel. NPC do the revsolution flywheels at 6.5kgs at approx $400-$450. The worst thing for that setup is the weight of the car. There is a lot more load on the clutch and drivetrain so it's even more important to consider non-cast iron options when it comes to flywheels

The flywheels are not all the same, they are all the same weight and look the same. None of this really matters though because if you were building a serious offroad competition car you wouldn't be using that cast iron grenade