The Dan

I just wanted to touch on that horsepower thing the other guy was talking about.....I was doing a little thinking about the horse, the rope and the weight etc. Does the weight of the rope enter into the equation and could the 1.8hp horse actually be using a lighter rope and therefore 'generous dyno'???

He was replying to Noel, not you. Be patient, if you truly want to be a member, you will have to wait 6 months like we all did

I'd rather buy a VL and be done with it

If you drag your engineer into it and he writes a blue plate for a car that is not legally allowed to be blue plated, he will lose his licence. And he will be aware of this....and not write the plate, therefore you won't be able to get it engineered and when you get pulled over, instead of being fined for driving a turbo car on your P's, you'll have the car removed from the road permanently and get a fine for driving an illegally modified car. Something to consider if you are thinking of doing it still

really? then why not keep it turbo? it's going to be equally illegal to drive

If you want to do it and your budget allows, then ring DOT/RTA and see if they will allow it. As far as being ABLE to be done....sure it can. Go for it. You can always rip the head off and go twin cam later if the peer pressure gets too much.

Was that the only civil war? You didn't specify Next thing you will claim your horses actually made 1.5hp

The pistons (comp ratio) is different also. What Nismoid {edited for accuracy} said before was correct, though, you won't be able to make the chassis backwards compatible. You can put engines of equal vintage in but I'm pretty sure putting a less efficient engine into a newer car breaks all their rules

You guys run NA 30's in the tanks right?

The size of my pussy flaps is rediculous, this topic has nothing on that

ahh so you meant to say, non turbo bottom end? having a non turbo bottom end really makes little difference to the equation but now we have that cleared up, we can continue, fully enlightened

I'm sorry but I will have to correct you on that. I can make a non turbo 6 cylinder produce over 200rwkw

wait a sec, and I quote: "i had a 12 second vl before i got the r32 i currently have. the whole setup owed me no more than 2 grand and it made over 200rwkw with a standard computer and an untouched non turbo rb30"

ooh late post, I missed all the banter :gets popcorn:

Many people underestimate the RB30ET I think it would be a unique conversion because many people would not see the point. If you have your mind set on it, then go for it. It can be done easily. But be aware that you WILL devalue the car by doing it and you may get a bit of flack from people who don't understand the reason behind it.

Yes it usually does. It has been slightly overtightened and that is why you are getting the humming sound. Either that or your PPQ frangipani number plates have arrived and the bees are starting to gather

So you've pulled the head off and checked the guide clearance?

well you would have changed the engine number so they will want to verify that, and the number will start with RB25 as opposed to RB20 I have blue plated (engineered) every one I have ever done. It's not expensive. DOT stands for Department of Transport (RTA)

RB25DE came out in the 32's but you'd still need to check whether you would have to engineer the 'turbo conversion' as well. Ask your local DOT for info, they should know

custom made cast iron ones. Don't ever use bronze of any kind unless you want to keep replacing them every 3 months on a street car. Bronze are rubbish and were only introduced in a time when materials were scarce and machining tolerances were much sloppier. Since then, most people forgot why they invented them and continued to use them due to their own made up reasons. Mercedes have recently changed back (after introducing them in the first place) to cast iron because they have finally seen the light and listened to the experts that were telling them for years.

That may be so, but you certainly don't fail in the 'one of a kind radiator' department. 1 x custom built twin pass vertical row unit coming up! Btw, I talked them down on price on the rad and optioned up a larger size on the cooler so same price but sick as cooling. You also don't fail in the 'unique destruction of factory parts' department but that's a story for another bed time

No, this is not a competition or I would show you maps with 0 degrees. I was merely telling him that 15 degrees is not as low as he thinks it is

That's pretty much it BB. The fact the keyway was damaged means the balancer had been moving around. This will either micro weld the crank to the inside of the balancer or it will machine down the snout of the crank. This means any new balancer that goes on or the old one, will not have enough or any interference against the crank snout. The amount of movement there when you are revving past 7k would scare you. The purpose of the balancer/dampener is to remove harmonic vibrations from the crankshaft. If it is able to move due to the bearing retainer or loctite material not being able to sustain high bonding strength for more than a short time, it will surely come loose again or destroy the oil pump. I know people who have welded balancers on to cranks and not had problems. I know people who have repaired keyways and not had problems, I also see the ones that were apparently repaired correcty and have come unstuck. If it were my car and I had to choose, I'd choose to replace it. If the repair is done by welding the snout of the crank, you also risk the end of the crank snapping off. I know people had done this without any problems but once again, I have seen the other side of the coin too. Why risk it. Cranks are not expensive and fairly easy to come by

GTFO Ford lover!!

Some of our cars run 10 degrees BTDC at peak torque so they won't rattle. 15 is still a fair bit depending on load etc. You can't tune timing accurately on the road.