The Dan

Yeah only if the joints used are under rated for the application. Many 500hp applications still use the factory tailshaft. 2 piece shafts are stronger. It's a fact and any driveshaft specialist will say the same. Going back to a previous post by someone, the falcon tailshaft made from alloy....Aluminium is lighter, therefore it has a much higher critical speed and they use a 3inch tube from memory. The longer the shaft, the stronger the material has to be or you have to lighten the shaft and/or make the tube diameter larger as well. The larger the diameter and the lighter it is, the critical speed goes up further. That is why carbon fibre shafts are probably the best material you can use. Extremely strong, extremely light.

Power runs through the transfer while it's on the dyno though doesn't it? The rear wheels are always in a slip event so the fronts should always be having 'some' torque applied to them. That torque has to come from somewhere

Bloody hell don't start the fixed vs percentage debate again. There like a 10 page thread on it. Percentage loss is a good way to work out factory approximate drivetrain losses. When you start making 3, 4 or even 5 times the factory power levels, those percentages are not logical any more. There was a big thing on it here, once again, a lot of people agreeing to disagree. My arguement is you can't say that a drag car making 3000hp at the wheels is still going to have a 20% drivetrain loss coz that's BS

Huh? through a transfer case, diff, axles and hubs you gotta see at least a 20kw drop. Has anyone done the back to back runs to check it out?

I have a couple of new Superspark ones here. Can't borrow but happy to sell one of them if you need one. I can't really lend out a brand new item to a guy with two forum posts if you understand sorry.

EFI also tuned this one. It made over 790rwhp on stock internals (1JZ. Car ran over 140mph)

Would you consider over 150 power runs on a stock CA18DE+T with 56psi boost too much for stock internals? Engine was still ok afterwards too. I think Sean at EFI was running 610rwhpon his RB26 with stock internals for ages. That was on gas though. Still didn't break a piston though. It has a lot to do with the quality of the tune/tuner

+1 The pivot ball can squeak and although some people will argue with me, the dust boot can also if it's dry enough. Have had 2 instances where lubricating the edges of the boot took the noise away. Don't stress too much about the baby crickets that live under your car, the noise will come and go for years but it doesn't mean the bearing has or will fail.

And that air filter is likely to be taking very large gulps of hot air coming directly of runners 1,2 and 3 of the manifold. Bad for making power

Ok I'll try to cover a few things. First of all: Forget the number at the top, how does it drive? Second: I would expect the same from that turbo/boost etc, maybe 20-30hp more but you'd need around 2-4psi more boost and possibly some better injectors. Spray pattern to LOOK at is different from what the actual spray pattern is DOING. What looks ok isn't always ok. Thirdly: You have the best tuner on the planet tuning it. There is no way you could do better/safer. The 11:1 is not a problem, tune it to 12:1 and I can guarantee it will make 5-10hp more but exhaust temps will skyrocket, especially on that turbo. You could take it to any other tuner and get the printout that says 300rwkw but say goodbye to your engine before Easter I would imagine. 17 degrees is normal....Gervase, your's actually comes down to 15 at peak torque from memory

Bit harsh on the name calling! The guy only wants to know where the wires go

Nicely done. I counted 11 seconds?

I just had a quick refresher through that manual and from all the ones I have ever set, you are only setting the SET value from a 0-100? or maybe 50? That number doesn't represent a PSI value. The only PSI or kPa readings you can view are the readouts, not the set or gain values that give you the boost you desire If you check the peak value while you are driving, it will also display what it's maximum was. Anything more than 1.3-1.4 x 100 kpa is getting a little too high for a standard engine. Just because it has lasted 50 or 100 of these possible high boost events, does not mean the engine is forged. You need to get a bore scope down there to look at the piston to know for sure and one in the sump to view the rods. The manual will explain gain to you but it basically controls how 'snappy' the boost comes on...it's value will also change the boost level somewhat. Don't change the settings unless you know what you are doing or it may not even make it to the tuner. Just modulate your right foot and don't give it a hard time until you know it's safe for sure

I'm not sure the Profec B has settings in PSI does it? Check that manual to find out. Have you got a separate boost gauge that reads the same?

The gearbox is the weakest link for you I'm afraid. At 300rwkw there is no guarantee it will not break but usually it's third gear that goes in those, not 1st so go easy on the 3rd change and it should be ok.

Knowing how much hp it makes would help a lot

Yeah the large red was the one we added before he sold that kit. Did you notice I changed one of those wastegate bolts to a longer one to make it easier to get the cap back on? We changed it on the car, did you do the same or remove it? If you get the chance, to make things easier, get an exhaust shop to weld in a flexible bellows in 1-3/4 inch for the gate, it will make it so much easier to put on if you ever need to

Didn't say the manifold was going to bend. It's going to leak though. And the studs fallen out of hundreds of standard cars is because the gasket is leaking, causing the hot gases to pass over the stud. If he puts this all back together without fixing it while it's close, then it WILL leak, it's only a matter of time....and from what I have seen, no more than about 3 months depending on what he does with the car

You can't be serious? It's going to leak no matter how flat both surfaces are. Not straight away, but eventually. Then it destroys a gasket, and other studs that cop the heat from it. Do it once, do it properly. Helicoil as suggested above

Good luck with the weather thing. Pretty sure I heard that 2 cyclones are headed in from the north east. Can anyone confirm?

works for me but anyway BCPR6ES. BCPR7ES if you are making over 300rwkw or so

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=core

np mate. Yeah ask Noel what he runs (it was already in when I got the car) it has no dramas. I don't drink bear or beer. Scotch is my poison but it is not necessary. All in the good will help others thing I got goin on

Noel runs a cooling pro from Justjap at 550hp at the wheels - pretty sure it's only 76m. Gervase runs a Nismo 100mm. PWR make good quality stuff for the Skylines. I used to get 1psi pressure drop in mine at 26psi at those power levels but it's the old vertical core design. I don't think you can get them any more

It doesn't look like the bracket is hooked into the hooks in the tank. What is stopping it from swaying around?