The Dan

yes they can be done without removing the turbos

fuel flow/pressure dodgey fuel pump or blocked fuel filter

I bet it wasn't quiet when he was skidding

Ring any tailshaft maker in your area and they should tell you that a tube shaft of the length required in a skyline (I think it's around 50inches) will go critical at 6000-6500rpm. The harmonic inbalance is usually so harsh that they bend or buckle as a result. Of course it depends on the material they are made from, how thick and the diameter of the tube but 2 piece shafts are stronger, much stronger. We put 600+hp through them all the time without hassles

If you can get the RB25 one then definitely get it. If you cannot get one anywhere, the RB20 will be fine

Have a look through the wheelspin at 5700 thread. Try to find the first person to say a nasty comment. It's him! Aside from me asking if he was taking the piss, everyone was giving constructive answers. Then he just turns on everyone (inc Ash - lol) I took an instant disliking to him from that point. He could be a nice kid but he needs to take a different approach to constructive criticism

Take it to a tuner and get it tuned. Just because you have the number 30 there or 50 even, doesn't mean it knocked 50 times. That is a value to tell you the intensity of knock. 50 being higher than 30 for example. 30-40 is acceptable. 50 is getting high. If you take it to someone who knows what they are doing, you may get away with fixing it instead of melting a piston because you changed something you shouldn't

same fan except the 20 should be a straight blade and the 25 will be a curve blade. The curve blade is slightly better but the 20 one will certainly due the job, especially with the bigger radiator there.

I just got an email with this car in it BB, you must be friends with AndrewB. Clean car mate. I bet you'll be sad to see it go!

I thought I'd get this started considering Whoretown is usually state specific.

If your fan sounds like a Cessna, maybe it needs to be replaced or maybe the cooling system is running hotter than it should. The fan shouldn't be engaged all the time. If it only sounds like a Cessna some of the time, then it's doing it's job

And for an on topic reply so you don't break down and cry: We keep the clutch fan on both our race cars because it cools better than the best thermo fan you can buy. Both cars exceed 550hp at the wheels so we aren't really concerned about the 5hp loss, we'd rather have the better cooling effect. Don't forget that once you get your thermo in there and run 5degrees hotter in the cooling system, you'll also decrease the efficiency of the engine, thus robbing it of any power you think you just gained

You should remove the belt to the alternator and power steering as well. Get rid of the aircon and all that also. Who knows, with all the extra power you'll make, that wheel camber fix you did might not do the trick any more. Back to wheel spinning in every gear again. Seriously though, search is not hard. We all had to deal with the flamage from older users when we asked stupid questions, it's just some people are more knobs about it than others. Those are the ones who attract 'take the piss' answers for every question they ask

Check to see if the pushrod on the slave moves at all when the pedal is depressed. Even if it's a small amount. Did you put the throwout fork on properly? Bearing on the carrier properly? You remembered to install the clutch?

They say this because it reduces the secondary travel of the slave cylinder due to larger fluid capacity but the same fluid displacement. Some twin plate manufacturers require a full 11mm travel of the bearing to fully disengage the clutch. If you only get 8 or 9mm due to the displacement thing, you will not fully disengage the clutch. Only ever use the big bore cylinder on clutches that are super heavy. There is no excuse to have heavy pedal, just lazy manufacturers. Install the clutch, if it's super heavy and you don't like it...get a second hand slave cylinder and have it bored out at your local brake remanufacturer (ABS etc) from 3/4 to 13/16. Will cost you about $40-$60 to do and is exactly the same thing. Try the bored cylinder and if it works fine then use it, if it doesn't, put your old one back on and sell your new Nismo big bore cylinder to someone else.

Ok try this: Get someone to watch the fluid level and top up as necessary. Step 1: Open bleed nipple on slave cylinder Step 2: Push clutch throwout fork towards slave cylinder so it pushes the pushrod back into the cylinder (fluid will come out of bleed nipple) Step 3: While holding the pushrod still pushed in, close the bleed nipple Step 4: Let go of the throwout fork and let the slave cylinder return outward Repeat until no more air comes out. If no air comes out, then you have another issue. Why are you bleeding it?

It depends on what you did. Did you change the master cylinder for a new one? If so, the master cylinder needs to be bled before installation (preferably) or you can do it after at the line that exits or if there is a bleed nipple on the master. Alternatively a lot of the time, you may have the system bled correctly but the master cylinder pushrod adjustment is incorrect which, in some cases, can make the pedal drop to the floor seeming like there is no pressure. When you change a master cylinder you need to ensure the pushrod fork is exactly the same dimensions as the original one and make sure the adjustment is close. Bleeding the system is the easiest part

The Exedy HD (NSK-7056HD) will hold the power. The only thing it won't do well is hard drag-style launches Shouldn't cost you any more than $450 to buy. Be careful though, some companies will try to sell you the 6797 Patrol kit instead. The Patrol kit will still do the job ok but they are much cheaper than the 7056 kit. The clutch plates are different (read weaker) in the patrol kit

The 044 comes with a check valve already on it

Based on what he said in his previous post: "Well it's mainly the body loom I'm re doing. Motor loom is gonna be the stock r33 loom just neatened up." Having dedicated relays for spark and injection isn't a bandaid fix for anything. It can be a bandaid fix, but there is certainly ways to improve Nissan's design. Dedicated power is a very good idea if you are chasing reliable horsepower and even more so when you have a track car

The booster doesn't get changed. The master cylinder can be changed to get a better pedal feel but it's not required. Basically the amount of fluid displaced at the master cylinder is equal to the fluid displaced at the calipers, so by making the calipers fluid capacity larger (larger pistons etc) you will require more pedal travel to displace the pistons the same amount. You don't have to go out and buy the BM57 master cylinder, you could also try re-boring your existing one. Try a brake mob like Slacks creek brake and clutch if you are in Brisbane

If you are using the factory loom it should already have those relays. The only additional ones you should ever need is injectors and coil packs. It's not mandatory but the more constant voltage you can get to critical engine components, the better.

Yeah that's basically what every EFI car does anyway. Having the system hold pressure is the whole purpose behind how an injector works properly so having a fuel system that doesn't hold pressure is going to cause some starting issues. You are better off having it than not

$85 is expensive for a cable. Of course the software cost them nothing to make

You should run relays for ECU, fuel pump, injectors and coil packs. Don't forget the CAS and Idle control both need a 12V feed so some of the ECU manufacturers fail in their instructions. Then just your normal sensor 5v to the others (TPS and Coolant temp etc) If it's a track car, make sure you avoid using solder as the vibrations from a high revving track car can cause wiring problems later in life. Pretty much every plug on your engine can be sourced from Superior Connection. Re pin everything for a completely bulletproof loom