The Dan

Check for blown fuse on top left where it says 4wd. Also check to make sure all your sensors are plugged in. You can also help to diagnose the problem by starting the car and monitoring the lights. If you start the car and the lights don't come on, then when you start moving the ABS light and 4wd light come on, then it is a sensor fault, not a circuit fault.

The limitation of the factory balancer is about 15 years. Think about it

connector or run the car - same thing. Just only undo one bleed nipple (and it must be the transfer)

Forget the bleed nipple at the diff. Use the bleed nipple on the transfer. You only need to use the one at the diff when the system is completely dry....pump and all. Fill the reservoir up above full mark and crack the nipple on the transfer. Start the engine and it should start to back fill. It will move pretty quickly so you will need two people. You can lock the nipple off before the pump stops (around 10 seconds) and get your friend to keep topping up the reservoir. That should be all you need to do.

I think you're hilarious

Yes, you need to replace the clutch slave cylinder and/or the master cylinder. Considering there is fluid under the car, I would start with the slave cylinder. Ring Nissan and buy it genuine. They cost around $100 for the R33 one. Dunno what the 32 one costs.

It has to do with the drum speed and the speed of the car. The dyno plots the graph vs drum speed and then when you print it vs engine speed, apparently you can get a variation in the graph. Kinda like when you see lines move backwards on the dynographs we see here when the operator backs off. Usually it has to do with automatic torque converters giving feedback when they lockup but considering this is a manual, I would say probably clutch slip , wheel spin, or some sort of RPM interference with the graph. Dynojet reckon if you plotted the graph on HP vs drum speed, it would be a smooth line

You're clearly a dynojet expert

Yeah it's not centrifugal force that tears it apart. Peak torque is before peak power and it is torque that smashes them. The only reason why I mentioned power is because it's easier for people to relate to. Everyone knows how many hp or kw they have so it's easier to put a figure on it. torque and hp usually go hand in hand so it's roughly the 450-500nm of torque that tends to be their breaking limit. But once again, it's really only when you load the absolute crap out of them. For the $400-$450 it's not worth the risk. And yes, you can feel the difference between the 6kg and 10kg flywheel. throttle response improves and the car revs more freely. There is no rpm 'drop off' due to being too light.

Definitely get a steel one. Exedy, X-clutches and NPC all do good flywheels. I always recommend the NPC ones of course as they are not over light. 6kgs compared to the 10kg factory unit

There is probably an 80% chance you would never have a problem but if you put slicks on and went to the drags, it's a fine line between taking your leg off or driving away unharmed.

DO NOT USE THE RB30 FLYWHEEL!!! It is made from the bad cast iron. If anything, the RB25 flywheel would be the pick of the two as it is made of nodular cast iron so is less likely to shatter. If you are making over 400hp at the wheels then DO NOT USE A CAST FLYWHEEL!

Contact Link International on 07 3382 5000. They are in Brisbane. Or I think Unique Auto Sports is the Nismo dealer down south. Part number for R32 is - N-46550-RS580 Retail price is $148 but depending on who you buy it from, you can get them cheaper. They keep them on the shelf usually.

Don't know the specifics. That's the link my friend in Wisconsin sent me. Probably best to email the guy if you are interested.

Anyone interested in buying this car? It is the original car from the fast and the furious movie. Belongs to a guy in the states and he has been told by authorities to get it out of the country. His contact details are at the top of the page. I know this probably should be in the for sale section but I'm not selling it so I thought I'd just put it up here for everyone to see. http://www.bigbirdskyline.com/BigBirdSkyLine/godzira.html

You shouldn't need to remove the instrument panel. A 9-12 inch 3/8 drive extension and 12mm socket should get it quite easily from underneath. You just have to worm it past a couple of wires. But as said above. That one and the two that hold the clutch master cylinder on and it's away. Leave the pedal in place as it's gonna come out with the rest of it. I recommend getting the Nismo one as it might save you a couple of dollars to get it welded but I have found that in around 50% of the time the metal will crack again within 12 months right next to where it was welded. It's much better to replace it with the already reinforced one and then forget about it.

Buy a reinforced Nismo one and swap it over. They are only about $100-$150

What pump are you using? How are you installing it? Gasket or Silicon? What type of coolant are you running? Why do you think the thermostat has anything to do with it? Do we have to play 'guess the symptoms' for much longer? Is it overheating? How long do they last?

What does 'geting wearhole' mean? Do you mean 'getting a leak from the weaphole?

^^^ yeah And it'll be a bitch to cold start without it

The coil packs are completely different. I don't even think the plug is the same is it? What a massive job that is to make it all work. You are better off rethinking the whole situation

Maybe if you are a little more descriptive it will help. How exactly is it shitting itself? Is it bearing failure or leakage?

If you start the engine with no water If you overtighten the alternator belt If you see a coolant leak and assume it's the water pump but it's actually something else

It has nothing to do with skidding the car. Figure 8's can be done in as little as 200m2 so go to a shopping centre carpark on a Sunday evening. It doesn't require much thought.

You are almost right. All of the GT3582's are rated to the same hp. The compressor determines air flow = determines hp output. The turbine's are all the same size and the blade angles are all the same so there is no differences there. The A/R of the turbine only changes shaft speed vs exhaust flow. They rate their turbos based on the compressor maps which has nothing to do with turbine size. However, if you pick the smallest ratio, you will have a hard time getting it to flow the numbers later in the rev range because it moves out of its efficiency range. eg. They will all flow exactly the same air from the compressor at a shaft speed of 120,000 rpm. The A/R or the turbine housing determines when the shaft speed will get to that point.