Dash

Thanks but I dont think that'll work as idle remains unchanged when TPS is disconected. AAC valve screw is turned all the way in. Took it apart and it was pretty clean,gave it a blast with cleaner anyway no difference! Anyone know if the solenoid is suppose to rattle when shaken?

Around 950 give or take 50rpm Mines currently sitting on 1400rpm!

Nah Ive checked both AC switch and power steer switch (pulled them out no change) Engine temp sensor raises idle when taken out so not that. Chris32 You could be right as I was out driving one night and after giving it a bit I noticed the revs werent dropping down.Finding a leak is the problem. Nothing is easy to get to in the engine bay.wanted to pull out the AAC valve to check but that means off with manifold,throttle ,linkages etc. Im sure the designers of these things were the size of Leggo men with hands to match!

Thanks mate Dont think its the AAC valve as the adjustment is still working OK and the revs dont seem to be flaring. Anyone else have any ideas?

Easy way to remove the restrictor is to get a 8 guage screw at least 1.5 inches long Screw it into the restricor till it bites and pull I farted about with pliers too till I thought of using a screw, heaps easier!

Since last week my car has started idling high It used to sit on 950 rpm Now its up around 1400rpm Doesnt appear to have any cold start correction either just stays, high hot or cold? Runs fine but the high idle is starting to shit me. Anyone know what could be wrong? Any suggestions before I take to a mechanic? Thanks

Commodore cat is the same I grabbed one out of bin at the back of an exhaust shop to make a jig for a cat-out pipe(for racing use only) You can have it after I get the pipe made,should be done by the weekend. How did you get the dumps out with the turbos on?

Thurs arvo Roe hwy silver GTR? It would have been me.

Hard to tell on the photos but it does look like its been like that for a while. Everything fixable just depends how deep your pockets are. If chassis rails can be repaired on vintage cars and complete sections cut-out and replaced why cant yours be fixed? Go and see some body repair shops and get some quotes its the only way you'll know for sure.

The rails do bend easily Mine were perfect until the licensing inspector decided to jack the car up to check the wheel bearings. Couple of nice big dents in there now! Thats nasty damage. Looks fixable though as the rear of the rail sleaves into the front. Possibly dolly the front section and replace the rear. Then heaps of underbody tar j/k Do you think it happened during shipping?

Pretty sure Hyperdrive are open over the holidays Give them a call 9209 3100

Depends if your carrying more than two people and sitting below the speed limit I'd tour the country in a R34 too but it would be more comfortable and practical to do in a HSV. Never had the pleasure of driving a R34gtr but no matter how much more refined there still a small car interior wise. Apples and oranges

There a nice comfortable car with lots of room and a perform well for what they are. Dont get me wrong I love my gtr but it really is alot more racier and would become a pain to drive in traffic all day. Although when I was younger it wouldn't have bothered me. As for a "weekender" gtr handsdown!

You'll need them for both seats Holes are already there but need to be drilled through the parcel shelf. I also used a couple of spacers to raise them enough to clear the original speaker covers.Make sure you buy the "late model"? restraints that have a provision for a clip.When you go to buy them there is 2 types. As for the a/c as long as the engineer signs off on your car with them there you should be fine. Hope that helps

I think the the point he is trying to make is even though dont want to, its recommended to use Nissanmatic D. I'm sure people have used non nissan spec ATF before. Then again theres probably a couple running around with shockproof in the transfer case aswell! I'm gonna do my soon, let us know if you find a better alternative.

Well done tutorial When I did mine I didnt take the whole mirror out One screw directly under the mirror and the the whole lot pops out. undo the connectors and its out. Just remember to take the backing plate to the glaziers as well, as mine needed grinding back for clearance.(they didnt have mirror the same thickness)

Aren't you suppose to use ATF in the transfer case not g/box oil?

steve Dont stress about the bill of landing You should receive it in the mail by the end of this week As for payment you can use direct deposit,cash or bank cheque. I had the car delivered before I paid and then went to UCB and paid with a bank cheque. Internet banking would of been easier however the limit for me was 2k He'll send you an itemised invoice with all the charges by mail. Quick tip,dont bother with picking the car up yourself,I had organised a tow but it wasnt worth it when delivery was only $60 on a flat bed truck to my door Cant tell you much about cleaning as I didnt need it done As long as your interior is clean you wont have a drama. The outside of mine was filthy when it arrived.

Yes you can I got mine done last week at a glazier $25 Which included some light grinding of the backing plate for clearance. Standard mirror is 1.5mm new piece is a bit thicker

Hey steve Are you using UCB as your customs broker? If you are fax your air con exemption letter to Bill now as I was held up a day or so waiting for approval.You will need it before your car will clear. My car arrived on last months boat and was all pretty straight forward. Boat docked fri/sat Car cleared by thursday(no cleaning required) Delivered to my door friday morning before work :wassup: As for trying to clear it yourself for me it simply wasnt worth it. I make more money going to work than I would of saved. Also found Bill really good to deal with kept me informed of how everything was going (by phone too!) and the charges were only $700 or so including Port charges etc.. The broker I brought the car through could take a lesson in customer service off him!!

That formula is for a "straight" piece of pipe yeah? Not taking into account the extra bends involved or the fact your still running over the top of the motor(heatsoak). What about how long it takes to fill that extra volume. Not knocking you just asking a question.

Faxing is definately quicker at the moment. I sent my application express post on 29/9 and received it today 1/11 As for shipping apparently up to 85% of car carrying ships is allocated to new cars atm and everyones trying to get a space. You do have the option of putting a car in a container as they leave weekly instead of at the end of the month,but this will add at least a k to the cost. Btw next ship to dock in freo is the Arcadia Hwy 13th NOV

Quote: I think it puts far too much power in the hands of RAWS to extort customers Hey bud I didn't say that and personally like the idea of a one stop shop Takes the the alot the unknown out of the process as your dealing with the one company and obviously they'll have a place of business to go to sort out any problems. Also makes them more accountable.

You wouldn't happen to know what a std or near std gtr makes on that dyno would you? or even better a graph to compare yours to. Then you'll know if its the dyno or your car

Seems like RAW workshops are the winners here making brokers almost redundant But as said the market will dictate prices. Really what other 15 year old cars become available next year besides the NSX(which still command a bomb anyway)