CRSKmD
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Everything posted by CRSKmD
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Checking a video I took of another run can see quite a different AFR Graph. -
so what do i trust. The dyno one of indeterminate age or my new one?
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My wideband which is post turbo, pre-cat reads leaner. Than the dyno one in tail pipe which is backwards to above. I guess its possible the dyno one or my one is out of calibration. Though mine is pretty new still...
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got bamboozled by the edited post haha "I just went through this, on the dyno only to realise most people consider the one in the exhaust pipe to be the more accurate one. My car is now tuned 0.3 rich. :p"
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why would it be more accurate if its post cat and not where the wideband manuals tell you to mount it?
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yeah i think i accept that something to address the AFRs are on the list for sure. Interesting how much different(richer) the dyno wideband (exhaust tip) reads than my one reads (pre cat).
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Of course a Link is the better option but $$$ which for what is meant to be “just a daily” might be overkill.
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First run had some woofs of black smoke then went away for this one I filmed. General driving i tend to see 10.2-11.5 on my gauge. Still gets 8L/100km. I should leave it alone and just drive it around but now i am considering a the 2 options of either FCD + RRFPR and see if a little more boost and some fiddling gets the AFRs more reasonable. Or option 2 looking out for a cheap Link ECU to wire in as standalone...
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Just as a follow up on the Starlet before we return to our usual programming. Dyno check over. Runs rich but is safe. Makes 105.2kw/176.8Nm 141hp/130ft.lb on 11psi with the Stock ECU
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perfectly reasonably for a daily driver for sure
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The 32 still sits untouched with the broken gearbox. So a little off topic but not worth having a whole new thread. The daily starlet has gotten back on the road after 9 months. Suspected blown HeadGasket at a track day resulted in a bit of scope creep rebuild. The motor got a full tear down, pressure testing, machined for MLS HG, ARP head bolts, new bearings, all new seals etc also noticed some fatigue on the stock exhaust manifold so obviously the answer was a steam pipe manifold and highflow turbo. The exhaust was also looking tired with some rust holes. So I got a slightly over kill system made up consisting of Vibrant resonator and muffler with a highflow cat. The new highflow turbo had a larger inlet so instead of adapting the old intake got a case of the might as wells and had a nicer alloy intake made After the run in was finished i bought a (probably considered retro/vintage) EBC becasue "might as well"
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It is a team event min 3 cars min 4 drivers, max 6 cars max 6 drivers. One car per team in track at a time. No in car timers allowed. We decided to enter the event and Rhys impulse bought the Kia on their lunch break. Regarding scoring, the way we thought it worked was: set your lap time before the event. for your elected time +/- 0.5 sec you get 2 points otherwise you get 1 point. the way it actually worked: set your time before the event for your elected time +0.9999 of your time you get 2 points. >1sec slower you get 1 point Any faster than your elected time at all you get -1 point I elected a cruisey 1:27 because there would be traffic and we did not understand the rules . But did 1:22-1:25 all day. Hence penalties.
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First time trying out a regularity format at the Peter Hall Memorial 6hr. It was an interesting experience with everyone on our team being brand new to the format. Safe to say reading and understanding the rules and scoring system would have really helped our team. We finished firmly last thanks to the majority of all laps across the team being penalties. In the words of my teammate Matt “Turns out we are both too quick and illiterate.” Another car had entered before us and already secured number 12 so i needed to clearly cross them out to avoid confusion for any other blue calsonic livery'd r32s at the event. The team consisted of an R32, an AE86, a supercharged V35, and a Kia CEED GT bought at salvage. I ensured we all had matching "Peer Pressure Racing" banners and overalls. This is the longest session of back to back hot laps the car has ever done (20mins no cool downs on a hot day). It was a true test of the cooling /oil control mods and they certainly made big difference! Enjoy watching me lose 14 concurrent points for the team: Unfortunately I only managed 45mins of track time over 3 sessions (20min, 20min, 5min) out of my allotted 90mins before my gearbox let go. Something related to shifter fork resulting in 3rd being neutral quickly followed by all gears neutral, then it being lock in two gears at once and unable to move. Optimistically there were no bad noises. But I am yet to pull box out and diagnose. Fortunately i was also to snag a tow home while I slapped a permit on the Kiaa which came on a trailer
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Got just the wing painted and fitted up to the existing boot. Big visual change and about time after having a GTR wing sitting in the shed since 2018 Headed up to Mallala with a quick obligatory stop in at Boliver OTR Oil control mods seems to have worked. I checked the catch can after session 1 and there was a dribble of water/e85 with barely any oil in it. After session 2 and 3 there was almost nothing and I stopped checking after that. so either great success or catastrophic failure/block of the external breather The GTR wing made a noticeable difference in the 160-185km/h sweepers. It was a very hot day for the cars at over 33C but the previously done cooling upgrade/ducting/water sprayers meant I never saw over 60C intake, 105C water and 100C oil and temps would drop back down very quickly once I shut it down. AD09's are a decent tyre but certainly and expectedly a step down when compared the the CR-S/AR-1 I have had on the car for years of track days. The handling characteristics of my car which I often describe using the Tony Hawks Pro Skater balance mechanic where either side of the center is understeer/oversteer was much more pronounced with no "green/safe" zone in the middle. However, imo it steers well/easily during oversteer largely thanks to the custom ACOSTAL front end. Enjoy a loose lap POV with my mate giggling away as a passenger. Group photo for Peer Pressure Racing made it back home and gave it a wash Overall a great success compared to my previous two track days where i cooked the Starlets motor and blew up the new diff in the R32
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Yeah good call, I will endeavour to tuck that down when I rewrap the looms it’s pushed up by
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I got the four AN10 fitting welded up to the cam covers and started up making the head to sump breather/drain lines. The front passenger side cover I used a 45 up top and a 90 at the bottom into the stock VCT head drain spot (3/4" BPST to AN10 adapter) thats unused on the RB25DET NEO with some speedflow flame shield to protect it from the manifolds heat. back passenger side was a 90 up top with some flame shield and 45 at the sump end. The rear drivers is 45 at both ends the front drivers fitting is capped off for now but ready to go if i want to try moving the breathers around. I was told by the fabricator to leave all the welds raw for now to make sure there are no pin hole leaks. A lot of cleaning up, re bundling looms and degreasing to go as well as final assembly on the cam cover baffles. The first real test will be 28th March at a Circuit event. added complexity and more spots for leaks but overall looks relatively neat imo
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Unfortunately there is no way to properly access the baffles. It’s a welded unit and the inlets and drain are too small to jam anything down realistically. Same with the breather I took off the cover and foam and it’s basically a wall
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I think the catch can design is pretty flawed. Evident in the fact that the V2 one moved to a larger top mounted filter which alone would have helped with overflow and reduce restrictions compared with the side filter. I also imagine there was a major improvement to the baffling design. It is worth mentioning that this catch can with the RB20 was never as much of an issue and the high kms RB25 is likely a part of the problem. I have gotten quotes for both a new "Vibrant Gen 3" catch can and to modify this existing ones but that may have to wait until after the track day. I hope the sump/head breathers/drains and cam splash plates will be enough
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not something I originally wanted to do. My plan was to just add the cam splash shields. This is the result of speaking with a few people in both time attack and drifting that have RB's making the same or more power than mine with the same issues. Using their experience and advice for what has actually worked in a similar application (sustained high RPM, long sweeping corners). They all have had at least an additional head sump drain breathers on top of the rear of head welsh plug drain/breather. I wouldn't do this for a car that's only street driven even my current setup has been sufficient for street duties.
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my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
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Welp, too late already committed to the cam cover breathers to be welded on. I did think about adding a catch can in line with the drivers side sump breather as a phase 2 along with a drain to the sump on the original catch can but with an inline ball valve so I can have it closed if needed. Likely a single breather would have been enough but I think I’m overcompensating to hopefully not have to empty my catch can and clean up oil over flow every session. out of curiosity has anyone actually measured crank case pressure before and after various mods? I’m considering adding a sensor for science
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My plan is to go the pink option. But still add the 4th fitting near the oil cap and just cap it off for now. That way I can add 2 extra to the sump and have 4 dedicated breathers/drains if I ever remove the sump for any reason.
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Getting holes drilled into to cam covers and AN10 fitting welded on. My sump has 2x AN10 fittings on it already. These are the options I have come up with that can be done without needing to remove the sump to add more fittings. In all options front of passenger side cover connects to VCT head drain bung (i know this isn't the best spot but my feeling is it must do something). Option 1 (pink). The back of each cam covers gets its own line to sump. Option 2 (blue). The back of each cam covers are linked and share a line to sump. The front of drivers side gets its own line. Option 3 (Black). Drivers side are Tee'd together and share a line to the sump. Passenger side rear gets its one line to the sump.
