CRSKmD

My plan is to go the pink option. But still add the 4th fitting near the oil cap and just cap it off for now. That way I can add 2 extra to the sump and have 4 dedicated breathers/drains if I ever remove the sump for any reason.

Getting holes drilled into to cam covers and AN10 fitting welded on. My sump has 2x AN10 fittings on it already. These are the options I have come up with that can be done without needing to remove the sump to add more fittings. In all options front of passenger side cover connects to VCT head drain bung (i know this isn't the best spot but my feeling is it must do something). Option 1 (pink). The back of each cam covers gets its own line to sump. Option 2 (blue). The back of each cam covers are linked and share a line to sump. The front of drivers side gets its own line. Option 3 (Black). Drivers side are Tee'd together and share a line to the sump. Passenger side rear gets its one line to the sump.

I thought it was just if “the modification effected/caused the incident”

Cam Marton or something?

That's a good point. The rears of the covers themselves have no baffling at all though. Higher up more chance of air for venting the crank case. Lower on the side more likely to be submerged. I might be able to fit them on the sides but with both the sump drain fittings being on the drivers side the passenger one will need to make a U Turn and be nearer the turbo. But it will look neat being not up on top.

I made a little more progress last night and added some E85 safe fuel tank baffle foam in behind the stock cam cover baffle plate. It still feels really wrong shoving foam inside the engine but apparently its fine based on it pretty much being the MINES/Hi-Octane RB26 cam baffle kit and the few posts here I have found of people doing it and the lack of posts saying the foam broke down and ruined the motor... Still plan to check it frequently though lol The last step for this round of oil control modifications I plan to make is to add some -12AN fittings to the cam covers and connect them to some (already existing luckily) -12AN fittings on the sump. Basically a sudo head drain/sump breather/pressure equaliser without having to remove the motor and do the one on the rear of the head. My plan is to add them to either the tops or the sides of the cam covers at the back. unless there is a compelling reason to have them at the front on the sides which i have seen a few times though they were all on RB26 cam covers from memory so that may be due to the stock breathers being on the back and the integral baffle being different ?

the ergonomics are real

from an old insurance company i was with (Budget Direct) I had someone roll back into me at the lights got them to pull over. Got a picture of thier licence with address, had a dash cam video and, thier phone number. But only had 3rd party on the shitbox i was driving. insurance did nothing, cops wouldn't do anything due to the value of the damage (under $3000) so i just had to suck it up and go to U Pull It.

Yeah this used to happen to me every year and a quick call would at least raise the agreed value back up / reduce the premium, but usually both. That said for the first time on the renewal this year our agreed values went up or stayed the same over the fleet and the premium came down so that was a nice surprise.

I’m with Shannon’s for all 5 of our cars. Agreed values seem fair, premium price is okay. ($210 ish a month, all comprehensive). Have claimed once with them for a not at fault claim with another car where my car had no damage. Was one call after the incident and an email after. Deemed not at fault so premium didn’t go up either. I have called up and spoken with people who are not familiar with certain cars and didn’t agree with me on value or let their personal vehicle preferences effect the call. But called back later and got someone else who was more agreeable.

I hope you mean engine oil change haha

Have you checked the foam over the years? No deterioration to the foam from e85 mixing in oil? (assuming you're on E85)

Got started on the modification to make these splash plates fit over the long weekend. First the surprisingly time consuming task of swapping all the cam cap bolts to Tomei cam cap studs. I did the method of removing one bolt at a time, applying loctite to the stud, double nutting to torque as the manual described. Then carefully unlocking the nuts without disrupting the torque of the stud (and going back to re-torque a few times when it slipped). Finally applying the nut and torquing to spec. Repeat x28 Next up I went about removing the stock cam cover baffle so I could ensure it was fully clean after drilling for stud clearance. As the blind rivets holding the baffle on were domed I used a punch to mark the center then used 4mm drill bit to carefully drill out the rivet without going too far part the baffle. As seen in other thread here is what is inside the stock baffles I decided on M4x6mm bolts to bolt the baffle plate back on with. I used a 3.3mm drill bit with some tape to mark the depth at ~8mm. Next was to tap the threads using a cheap bunnings kit M4x0.7. With the baffle removed I also drilled out the spot welds holding in the baffle plate oil returns. Unsure whether this was the best option or if I should have cut holes in the Hypertune splash plates to allow the oil drains to still function... time will tell. I then removed the the Hypertune splash plates so I could rest the cam cover on top and use a dab of grease to mark where the studs impacted the oem cam cover baffle. The most obvious spot was on the hump from the stock mesh is held. Using this hole as an anchor I bolted the oem baffle plate back into the cam cover and lined up the Hypertune splash plate. Marked the rest of the holes for the studs and drill those out too. Total 32 holes drilled and 12 threads tapped on the passenger side cam cover alone for this bolt on part that totally clears all OEM cam covers.. Drivers side next as well as some E85 safe fuel foam to fill the space behind the behind cam cover baffle plates. oh and some lock nuts for the splash plates of course.

RB20/25 covers don’t have threaded fasteners stock like RB26 covers. They are blind rivets so I will need to drill out and tap threads. I bought some M4x6mm button heads and will report back once done if I chose correctly length wise. have also got some loctite

What size bolts did you use to reattach the cam cover baffles? Thinking it will need to be M3-M4

Yeah one of the first things I out in when I started having catch can filling up issues. Still prefer to empty 1-2 times a track day rather than every session

yeah I get ~0.6L per session into the catch can. very ethanoly. It ends up overflowing out the breather of the catch can on circuit days too even with a 2.3L capacity catch can and I only drain out ~0.6L max. So every session I have to come in and drain the catch can, which is a hassle. So this is me cracking the shits and doing everything I can without removing the motor (back of head sump drain/breather and oil restrictors off the table). plans short term are: full length splash plates remove oem cam cover baffle add foam and reinstall at -10 or -12 AN fittings to the side of the cam covers down to the sump (luckily I already have fittings in the sump) Yes the ~340,000km unopened motor is probably not helping things

The studs are needed to run the splash plates/ full length baffle plates do you have a link to which foam you used? I have seen autosport had the yellow stuff that’s E85 safe. https://www.autosport.com.au/fuel-tank-foam

Got around to installing the Tomei Cam Cap Studs and the Hypertune cam baffles/splash guards. Unfortunately, I was not aware that the cam cap studs do not clear the stock RB25 internal cam cover baffles. Some research found a set from boostdoc which includes a replacement cam cover baffle and full length cam baffle + tools and fasteners. but I'm not keen on re-buying what I have already bought. So the plan is to take the hard route and modify the existing cam cover baffles to clear both the cam cap studs and the hypertune cam baffle plate. I assume there must be people who have gone through this even just to convert from cam cap bolts to cam cap studs? If so any tips would be appreciated. Otherwise I think I will mark where the cam cap studs foul, drill clearance holes in the cam cover baffle, and remove the cam cover baffle oil returns to clear the hypertune baffle plate. I will also need to remove the baffle and drill and tap threads to bolt it back on so i can clean out any swarf. Fuel tank foam as extra cam cover baffling?

Thank you! The matching touches really ties it all in. If/when I redo the whole car it would likely be the same colour I did the Engine Bay/Brakes/Cam covers in 2018. or something adjacent

Looking at finally painting and installing my R32 GTR wing I bought back in 2018. I got two quotes: Quote 1: $880 includes: wing, spare boot, holes welded up prep/paint. Pro: full boot with wing AND hole-less boot with lip i can swap between Con: $$ Quote 2: $330 wing only. Pro: cheaper Con: lose my (relatively) rare no holes sedan boot Also to consider I do plan on painting my whole car at some point "soon" (been saying that since 2018) Anyway Enjoy these All Japan Day 2025 pictures of my 4 door, still rocking the Calsonic Livery! Rolling in Interior shot Matching Peer Pressure Racing overalls are pretty cute ngl. This year was a hard 1990 cut so I got to be over with all the older cool stuff Next to arguably the best car there. A mighty S-Cargo

Finally addressing my catch can and oil setup Plan is to do as much as practical without having to remove the motor or pull it apart. (no back of head to sump drain/breather or oil restrictors) First step is a set of full length baffle plates from Hypertune and a Tomei cam cap stud kit. I could probably have laser cut and bent up my own ones but this took any guess work out

Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on. The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.

Snapping necks haha