CRSKmD
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CR-S Update While they are allegedly better in wet conditions than the AR-1 my experience was not great. But i guess 1 better than 0/100 is still only 1/100. I will go through the footage i have, but aquaplaning appeared to me much more of an issue than with the AR1's i suspect this was due to the lack of full thread width grooves for the water to escape/be displaced through. -
The Nanknag CR-S is a very different tyre than the AR-1. they were pretty much as robbo_rb180 said. but here are my thoughts and comparisons to the AR-1 in the same Size The Good Road noise greatly reduce (at least while tyre is new) Faster to heat up. just the outlap and basically up to temp by the time you came back around. vs 2-3 laps to warm up the AR-1 Faster to cool down if you don't completely cook them could realistically get them to go 1 warm up, 1 hot, 1 cool, 1 hot, 1 cool etc by comparison the AR-1 needed 2-3 warm up, 2-3 hot, 2 cool down despite the 200TW rating (Tread Wear =/= tyre compound softness i guess) they were gripper than the AR-1. On AR-1 my brakes could easily over come the tyre when at ideal temps where as now its better matched. My suspension almost felt too soft and there was noticeably more roll leading me to believe that the tyres were sticking more leading to more suspension lean where as the AR-1 in the same spots would slide The not so good Only good for ~1-1.5 laps at a 2.6km circuit before they need to cool off The 255/40R17 CRS seems to be taller and slightly wider sidewall to sidewall than the 255/40R17 AR-1 Could just be my car but they didn't seem to "talk" as much as the AR-1 when approaching the edge and would appear to suddenly "let go" Post to follow with track day wrap up thoughts, video and pics
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extremely good info thank you. As for being faster we'll see what 2 years of basically only drifting and associated car changes does to my PB from when I did 6 track days at the same track in a row
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Oh nice did you have your car there too? my only good comparison will be against the AR1's in the same size. I found on a 2.6Km track it would take 1-3 laps to get them up to temp, then I would get 1.5-2 laps before they got too hot, followed by 1 cool down lap. went out at 21psi cold and if I came back in directly after I overheated them it would be 36-46psi. or coming in after a good lap ~29-31psi
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After ~6month break from Motorsport events I signed up for a grip day at Mallala. I decided to try out some new tyres in the form of the Nankang CR-S in a 255/40R17 which I fitted up to my street wheels (the Gram lights) as they were the roundest lol before there was time for an alignment it was All Japan Day 2023 even found this at one of the stalls After the day was done and dusted a mate that was also doing the same grip day came over for us to install some parts and adjust anything that was required. The RA65 ended up with a fully adjustable front end and for the R32 its was raising the height back up to where it was when the shockworks coilovers were first installed as they had settled ~5-10mm over the years and replacing the eccentric bolts that were left with some lock out ones to reduce the chance of the alignment shifting on any off-track adventures. Unfortunately, this meant that my trusty subframe brace/low jack point had to go as the eccentric lockout bolts were not long enough to accommodate both the brace and the washers. Then it was off to the alignment and I went with the below fairly conventional specs Front Toe: -1.5mm toe out each side Camber: - 3.8° degrees Caster +7.4° Rear Toe: 1.75mm in each side Camber: -1.4 ° fun note the last grip day I did on my ad-hoc drift alignment was done with -12.5mm toe out each side for a whopping 25mm total toe out!
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after talking to some other drivers i tried to down size my front tyre but up-rate the compound grip So i went from a 235/45R17 street tyre to a tiny 215/50R17 semi. certainly was an obvious visual change But thankfully also an improvement as can be seen in the mash of clips filmed by me and some friends during the day. Enjoy! also safe to say the rear end alignment and arm setup is working well
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Next event was a drift day out at Mallala. After some struggles early in the day I was told to try and wind in some more toe out. Good improvement at turn in and mid corner for the higher speed bigger corners. All was going well until about lunch time when after looping it out (again). The car stalled and wouldn't start. Bump start got me going and home where I tore down the starter motor down to find... I sourced a new RD30(?) start motor which was much larger than the old unit was and definitely started up much easier. Despite the larger size it dropped straight in. While under the car replacing the starter motor I noticed a few problems in the form of a missing steering rack bushing alloy spacer and some more than usual oil leaks which I traced to the rubber section of the oil drain hose.
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Gh05t's 32 Gtr Daily Cleanup
CRSKmD replied to GH05T's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
I would suggest taking a look at Shockworks over MCA's but same idea much better suspension can give you a nice comfy ride AND a firm track setup. Instead of just being lower and stiff like BC,HSD, ISC etc -
Gh05t's 32 Gtr Daily Cleanup
CRSKmD replied to GH05T's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Soon to be super fresh with all the new little touches parts you’re making! -
the AAC/IACV had issues on the dyno resutling in a 3000-4000rpm idle hunt which i had previously experienced and resoled with a big stab of the throttle. We gave it an ultrasonic bath which revealed that the vax pellet in the cooland controlled side had vanished. found and cleaned up another one and now for the first time ever my car has a stable 750rpm idle which is kinda of weird. A mate of mine was fed up with my flogged radiator upper mount bushings, which had been an issue for many years, and got me a set from JL Design and Fab / Fitmint auto. Before. After.
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Back at home I got stuck into the investigation for the cause of my fuel system woes. Opening the tank up expecting to see debris or a blocked filter sock but it was clean inside. I decided that the Denso Lift pump and the Bosch 044 could simply be too old and had started to fail after years of running in E85 considering neither were technically compatible with Bosch themselves only saying the 044 was good for 500hrs in E85. The 044 at least was more than 5 years old running on E85 the whole time. I purchased a Raceworks EFP-501 low pressure high volume E85 compatible pump for the lift pump and the new Bosch 200 E85 compatible Main pump to replace the 044. Interestingly the terminal sizes are swapped from: small OD (-) and big OD (+) on the 044 nicely colour labeled to Big OD (-) and Small OD (+) on the new 200 with no colour coding During the install I found that the hose from the in-tank lift pump to the surge was prone to kinking which may ahve been the real source of my problem I replaced the effect hoses and in order to help prevent this I added some conduit to avoid future kinking (yes i am kink shaming my hoses) All installed and hoses routed. The positive battery cable needs to be rerouted with a new isolation switch all running well with nice stable fuel pressure I booked it in for a dyno health check in case the new pumps were dramatically different to the old ones.
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Bit of a gap between updates but I can confirm the injector seals worked. I entered Winterfest2022 with the hope of getting bulk track time as it was a 9am-9pm day with multiple sessions per group. However, my fuel system had other plans after. Almost immediately after driving out on track I could hear cavitation and watching the fuel pressure live reading it was jumping between 40-60psi with quick succession on cruise. I gave it a quick go and sure enough the LINK said no drifting for you and cut power to protect the motor. With no spare fuel tank o-ring seal on hand i was hesitant to remove the lift pump and look inside the tank due to the known swelling issue they have once removed. So with a few friends we checked over the whole rest of the system jiggling hoses and checking voltages. With nothing found there we were thinking perhaps a blocked fuel filter was the culprit. So we went off to Murray Bridge to grab one. After installing it the fuel pressure looked stable around 60psi on idle...for about 10 minutes when it was fluctuating again. I decided to go back on on track but after the first corner it was pretty obvious that there was no significant improvements. Anyway enjoy the surprising amount of pictures i have from the day
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Considering the stock neo injector uses ORings top and bottom and the injector is the same length as my current ones it should not be an issue as is. Just feels off.
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Gave the engine bay a good look over before a two day back to back event coming up. Noticed some slight discolouration around the injector lower seals but of course the combination of injectors and rail meant it was near impossible to remove without splitting the plenum and removing the throttle body. after going back through my own thread to realised I had installed it with the plenum apart when i was refreshing the motor. Once I pulled them out to inspect the seals and this is how most of them came out Got a whole new set of the same lower insulator seals I had on there and no mater how evenly I did up the fuel rail or how much silicon spray was used they ended up sitting like this. It just did not feel right. After some solid googling i realised that the RB25DET NEO ran an O-Ring top and bottom as seen on this stock injector. Luckily l was able to grab a set of O-Rings from Garage 7 The fitment seemed much better. Though I am yet to drive the car under boost which is a little concerning if they are not the seals I should be using. As i had to remove the TB during the process I ended up destroying the gasket and was not able to get another one easily/quickly. Luckily I happen to own a Vinyl cutter and with ~$1 of gasket paper I made one. While I had better access than usual I investigated my other phantom oil leak which seemed to be coming from the black -10 AN swivel fitting. Initially I tried to tighten it as it felt a little loose. Still leaked. My next thought is the hose was dud as the fitting seemed to tighten nicely. So I made a new hose and reused the fittings. I degreased the car and sat and watched it with a variety of torches. 5, 10 and 15mins of it idling at ~55C oil and ~77PSI oil pressure went by with not a drop. Great, switched it off and went about cleaning up the work area. When I heard it dripping like a tap. Not a drop when running under pressure but once the car was off away it went. Odd Took the hose out, cleaned it then did the ol' under water leak test... Grabbed a new fitting, Made yet another new line (we all know how much a PITA making braided lines is) and put it in. No leaks when running. Left it while I had dinner and came back and still nice and dry. Success! Now to hope the injectors still seal under boost. surely if the wrong seal swollen and smooshed was fine these will be?
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Gave the new suspension and alignment a good test out on the Drifting SA Skidpan at the Bend MotorSport Park. My thoughts: The extra grip and stiffness in the rear end made for a much more consistent and predictable car. There seemed to be reduced slop when going over centre up front which helped the steering on transition. Previously it would hesitate on centre and require some encouragement in the form of a quick steering stab. The extra rear end grip, even with pressures up a little than normal, required a more commitment to get it sliding. Or maybe its all in my head ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I also tried some scando entries for the first time as well as using the handbrake to trim some angle off. Big thanks to the guidance from the instructors on the day, especially Daniel Prior. Enjoy a lap on board below and some great pics taken by a good friend. I have noticed that the outside edge of my front tyres have taken some serious wear. See the comparison with the rears which were not used for drifting. More front camber might be needed to prevent this and you can see in the pictures above that the leading wheels is positive cambered
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Despite my avoidance of GKtech arms I ultimately decided that I wanted to keep the caster on the high side. I will be keeping a very close watch on these after past experiences but they do look like a great product with solid construction. At the same time i got some more Acostal arms this time in the form of some Rear LCAs. These or other arms (or even press in spherical bushings) that allowed for higher misalignment were needed as I also wanted to move the front mount for the RLCA to reduce the Anti-Squat characteristics closer to that of an S14 subframe. A fresh alignment done with some slightly different settings Front: Camber: -3.3° each side Caster: 7.5° each side Toe: 2mm out each side. 4mm total out Rear: Camber: -1.5° each side Toe: 1.5mm in each side. 3mm total in Little extra front camber as i was scrubbing the outside edge of the tyres. Caster was pulled back a touch to save my bumper while still hopefully keeping that feel. The extra (almost double) toe in, in the rear should be appropriate to counteract the toe out that happens while the car squats considering the new rear geometry should allow ~45% more squat among the other benefits. Yet to take it out beyond the drive home from the alignment so we'll see how it goes
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By the end of the last drift day I had well and truly bent the makeshift lock stop and even managed to crack the welds holding it to the LCA by getting the knuckle stop underneath and then getting it jammed as the suspension moved. so it was time for a a better solution in the form of some stronger bigger "targets" This bigger target solved the getting jammed under the lock stop issue and made the following days much more enjoyable!
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For a while I'd be living with a mysterious oil leak from vaguely behind the timing covers. After a drive there would be a small puddle under the car. If I ran the valley cover oil would collect under in the coilpacks especially around #1 and #2. If I ran no valley cover there would be a fine mist over most of the engine bay. Everything pointed to bad front main or cam seals as it was impossible to initially see the source as the timing belt would pull everything around. I tried several times in a day replacing the seals thinking that the issue was one of the front main or cam seals. I went as far as using genuine nissan goo around the corners of the cam seals etc. But still the issue remained. This was how it was for longer than I care to admit but with a large sump capacity and limited use it wasn't a big issue. Finally I found the issue, The VCT gear thing itself was leaking and after speaking to a few people who are highly knowledgeable in RBs the consensus was "huh thats a new one." Anyway incase this is your issue too i post the following run through: remove the upper timing cover and replace the CAS using the small spacers from in the upper timing cover. Oil behind the VCT timing gear on the timing backing plate. But not behind the backing black on the head around the seals. Oil inside the VCT gear VCT oil gear pressed in seal. Apparently there is an o-ring behind the seal. it was able to rotate independent of the rest of it a test i did to point me in this direction was holding some paper against the backing plate and shining a bright light on the paper to watch the oil spray pattern More info in the video showing the tests and the rotating of a bad vs good gear. Also voice reveal lol right after I confirmed the issue was fixed i dropped one of the little CAS spacers down into guts of it. Thankfully I had an inspection camera and a magnet so did not need to remove the timing belt for what would have been the 20th time!
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Oh good point completely forgot about that issue. I used to run around 8.5° On an old setup maybe 6 years ago with poly bushes and sure enough they died. Replaced them with spherical upper arms which eventually flogged out and then I went back to a poly arm around the same time I had the cracked alloy caster arm. Personally trying to avoid GK tech arms
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Even with the caster as set the tyre grabbed the bumper. The bar was moved forwards as much as practical without cutting it up. the fitment and panel gap is far from ideal but at least im less likely to drive over it. A small diameter front tyre could do the trick but C H O N K. The added caster was truly a night and day difference on turn in, but sadly the caster along with the alignment has introduced very severe steering bind at full lock. a quick fix was to try and wind some lock out. Further investigation revealed that my Adjustable lock stops we made up in 2016 are effectively useless now as the knuckle stop actually sits below the lock stop due to me raising the car several inches since. wear marks suggest that at lock throughout the suspension travel the knuckle stop is actually moving up and getting stuck under the lock stop which is adding to the bind. Track side fix was to literally scour the dirt car park for a big washer and some nuts to enlarge the lock stop target. Which worked, for exactly one lap before bending it. The rest of the day was spent trying to drive around it with less angle or using power to lift the front a little and make it easier to unbind. Yes that is a wheel nut welded to the LCA with a collection of bolts and washers to clamp the washer... Enjoy some pictures from the latest day.
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A shortcoming of my car was the turn in characteristics, having significant understeer on turn in and speaking to a few people I trust including Stewy we can to the conclusion that a lack of caster wasn't doing me any favours. The old arms were likely more suited to an S14/R33 not R32/S13 as at the max adjustment they only produced ~6.5' of caster. A pair of Acostal HC caster arms were purchased. way overkill clearance wise for me. Especially as i have no plans to remove the front swaybar. But the quality bearings along with steel construction made them the best choice. Long time readers may recall a crash caused by a snapping alloy arm... The adjustment allowed for more caster than my bumper allowed Took it in an got a fresh alignment with the caster dialed back to a reasonable level. I aimed at something suitable for drift but while still being streetable. I ended up with the below alignment. Front: Camber: -3° each side Caster: 7.8° each side Toe: 2mm out each side. 4mm total out Rear: Camber: -1.75° each side Toe: 0.8mm in each side. 1.6mm total in I am also trying out a set of the Kenda KR20A soft tyres in 255/40R17 all round for the street wheels courtesy of Sleeka Spares.
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After a go over the car we noticed the tail shaft centre bearing was beyond flogged. a new replacement was sourced. For people searching in the future part number NP-30-6250 was a direct replacement for R32 RWD centre bearing from, hardy spicer. I was looking to go genuine but this was available in a matter of days not months. Jackup the car nice and high at the back leaving front on the ground in order to keep the gearbox oil inside and not in my armpit (ask me how i know). Placed on stands before getting under the car old bearing off (27mm socket, 14mm spanner, 17mm socket) mark the alignment of the shaft first so it goes back together balanced new one on Also put some new Rack Ends in Part number RE-4760 $28.10 each
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haha while there are some crap places out there. There are also some real gem shops that have been around for years
