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yeah wild! Nah just stock gears i considered going upgraded gears with the new pump but figured a brand new N1 should be fine

Yeah Neo now never had any issue with the RB20 but was also only Nistune so not as much safety as the Link Nah stock long motor have not opened it and let the magic out as yet

Nope basically no change even had fresh 20W50 ULX110 oil which may I add required 3 bottles to do a change. The oil pressure at idle was low around 20psi and maxed out at 45-50 psi by 4000rpm. We were thinking that potentially the Oil pressure relief on the oil pump was jammed. So again off came the sump, gearbox, clutch and flywheel. But to ensure if the pump relief was jammed I took off the pump as a complete unit rather than just removing the relief while leaving the pump in the car. Which as you may know required the accessory belts and timing belt to come off as well. Oil pump off and relief shown. I removed the spring to check the relief valves range of motion and it was as smooth as butter with no scoring. But as you can see the pump its self was rooted There should not be any of those concentric grooves some of which were easily 2mm deep. So a brand new N1 oil pump was ordered. while waiting for the pump to arrive I noticed that the Turbo oil drain rubber line had split So this was replaced with a new hose. New N1 pump arrived This went in along with some new genuine cam seals to be safe. and bam here we go over 90 psi of oil pressure on idle. so after four sump and gearbox removals we made it and time to chase that 1:19 at Mallala

Purely to spite Ben C34. Prior to the August 20th track day i did a basic fuel system upgrade. Made it to the track day first lap out and came in the check tyre pressures when i noticed there was oil absolutely everywhere. I traced the leak to the catch can vent. I emptied the catch can from the drain but only ~200ml came out so something was obviously a miss with the baffling. Without much time we decide to remove it and upgrade it to a dual HKS and Nismo system This solved the oil issue and by the end of the day there was hardly any oil in the catch cans. However, even with the baffled gated Hi-Octane sump I was still hitting engine protection due to low oil pressure. The logs showed that oil pressure was now stable but capped off at around 50psi whereas before with the stock sump it would increase to around 90psi but drop to 15psi. After some research it seemed like the Oil pickup may not be sealing to the block resulting in air being sucked in at the top rather than oil at the bottom as would the path of least resistance. When I had fitted the extended pickup to suit the new sump I had reused the old gasket style seal which the later model AWD RB’s have. But the extended pickup was of the older style which used an O-Ring seal. So with a brand new genuine O-Ring seal acquired we got the car back on the hoist and went through the sump removal process which as you may recall from last time required the gearbox, clutch and flywheel to come off to get to the rear 4 10mm bolts. New O-Ring seal fitted and back together went the car this should fix the issue right? As the only thing that had changed from when it had good pressure but poor oil control was the baffled sump and extended pickup…

anyone keen to hear about my oil control saga?

commenting to stay subscribed. Very keen to watch this development

next track day is 20th august... need to start and finish the fuel system by then. probably should upgrade the rear sway bar to match the front too

Used whiteline sway bar acquired. Gave it a clean up and some fresh paint. mile more clearance than stock as you can see below. So Whiteline sway bars for R32 skyline have ~20-25mm more clearance than the stock one which is good for the new Hi-Octane baffled/extended sump

progress!

during some internetting i noticed that there was a difference between GTST and GTR pedals. and while getting some other parts i asked and they had a GTR one for $25 so figured id give it a go. GTR vs GTST Accelerator pedals. The GTR pedal is shaped differently and is much closer to the brake especially on the bottom. I assume for easier heel toe and prob GTR tax. The spring on the GTR pedal is lighter which is probable due to ITB vs single TB? For the time being im trying out the lighter spring and as long as it closes throttle and there is no oscillation should be fine.

In order to address the oil control issues i first looked into an oil accumulator. However after checking the logs it was deemed that an accumulator alone would not be suitable for how bad my oil control issues were. The accumulator would essentially be firing all the time which would not allow sufficient time for it to refill before the next corner. The oil pressure would also drop while the accumulator was refilling. it was decided that a proper baffled/gated sump would do more to fix my issues. Of course both an accumulator and a baffled sump would be better but $$$$$. As my motor had a Cast alloy AWD sump converted to RWD the stock baffling situation was even worse (than a stock rwd sump). the comparison between the new Hi-Octane extended sump and the stock one can be seen below. now this sump came from the G7 Targa GTR so was still AWD which mean i needed to get yet another sump converted to rwd. (my old RB20/25/26 AWD -> RWD sump is for sale if anyone is keen) an extended pickup was also needed for the Hi Octane sump in order to fit the sump the plan was to hold the motor up with an engine brace. lower the sub-frame and sway bar. Then remove the sump while keeping the motor and Gearbox in the car. This almost worked and in 40mins we were at the point of taking the sump off and had undone all of the sump bolts...except for 4x 10mm bolts located at the back of the sump... in order to get to these f**kers the gearbox had to come off. initially we thought maybe just moving the box back 15-20mm would work however the flex plate between the flywheel and the motor had other ideas. So box, clutch and flywheel all off with that all done and the new sump on it was time for everything to come together which fine until the sway bar Apparently a whiteline sway-bar has 20-30mm more clearance so thats the plan from here.

First shakedown of the new motor, ECU, brakes, and tyres setup did not go to plan. even during warm up laps i had massive fluid (oil and fuel) control issues with the Link hitting safety cuts at basically every corner and under hard acceleration and braking. Data logs shows that at 5800rpm oil pressure had dropped to 15psi! i also managed to bend a rear LCA luckily a mate had a spare one and his dad was kind enough to drive it out to the track for us. I got it swapped back in and drove up to the gate... just in time for the marshal to close the gate as the end of the day had come about. *hello darkness my old friend* plays still with the issues and limited track time i managed to drive there, beat my PB and drive back home.

before the first track day with the new setup i thought i should address the on going issue of the power steering fluid boiling over. i also wanted to avoid smashing ripple strips with it and keep it protected so i positioned it up high and horizontal. (don't worry a scoop will be fitted to help direct air) couple of steel brackets to bolt from rear to guard/body and then plumbed in line .

Cheers mate, There is definitely no more peak power in it the turbo is maxed for sure the 44mm gate paired with this turbo, manifold. and neo head was too small so boost control had to be very mild at the start to prevent spiking. so potentially a bigger gate and re-set the boost control would see a bit more mid range

But the 25 is gonna drive mint Hopefully its as bullet proof as the 20 was

RB20ftw 25's in the bin haha nah hands down the 20 still sounds better. harsher, revs up faster and actually it was noticeable louder with the same exhaust. in comparison the 25 sounds lazy and mellow

potentially something a bit difference. Haven't seen many people go for the TD05 on a 25 RB25DET NEOTD05H-18g 10cm (A/R .73) billet compressor Vband rearAT Performance Steam pipe manifold44mm Turbo Smart waste gate (touch small)1000cc Xpurt ID injectors3" turbo back exhaustFront facing plenum mod by 1110 EngineeringFMIC by Vulcan Performance and FabricationLink G4+ ECUTuned at Garage 7 E85340kW563Nm red comparison chart is my previous setup with the same turbo (smaller housing) 290kw RB20 dyno run

Tune is done! Anyone who had spoken to me about the Neo swap power expectations knows that the maths says the TD05 would be too small and become a restriction at ~6000rpm. As the turbo made 290kw on the RB20DET where it was bang in the middle of the compressor map we thought on the RB25DET it would make 250-270kw up top but be super punchy through the low and mid range..... But the little TD05 went above and beyond all expectations cracking 340kw up top before falling over a bit at 6500rpm. The 44mm gate was a bit too small for this motor/turbo combination which can be seen in the boost graph below. 17.8psi is the lowest it can run with a bit of overshoot before it settles due to the amount of gas that is trying to flow out the small hole. Solid result and more than happy just means no low boost mode and need to control boost with the right foot red graph is the old 290kw RB20DET graph with the same turbo (except 8cm vs 10cm) Dyno Video

yeah Vulcan Performance Fabrication here in Adelaide did a great job. im happy i went all Alloy mandrel bends this time as much as i liked the SS lobster pipes

Japanese import Spares, Grand auto and nisswreck are the main ones

yeah there is a little latch on it which we have secured by putting a bolt through the hole. cant undo tap without taking the bolt out

Fabrication done. all alloy piping 2" hot side for response, 2.75" cold side to match TB and a big ol' Aeroflow core also sneaky catch can drain

Wiring time. I had put this off in the hope that someone else would do it for me but with the deadline for it being taken to tune fast approaching it was time. I wanted to keep the RB25DET Neo loom rather than mod my 20 loom to fit. this was mainly as i had bought a LINK ECU plug and play for the GTT ECU plug looked like this... bit of work with a carby jet drill solved the smooshed plug. stripped back the RB25DET Neo Stagea loom and my R32 RB20DET loom and went through and labelled all the important plugs and pins i needed to match up. made up one of these for each of the plugs then a reference of what to cut and add where. i tried to keep track of every thing i did in the hope of making a guide in the near future for those who undertake the same conversion. I just want to ensure it all works first. Day before it was booked in for fabrication the loom was all together and wrapped up after a few tests for voltage at each Pin. After getting the Link to talk to my laptop and playing with a few settings to roughly have it correct to start, injector sizes and what sensors was on each I/O this happened by 12:30am it looked like this 8:30 am the next day it wash pushed back and ready for picking up

yeah i heard the same that it was same compound but different manufatoring plant but then from what i read HC800 was good from 0C -800C and HC+ was more like 20C to 800C+ so better on track but not as good initial cold bite

i had the same pads in my GTST Brakes. They only would have done >1000kms before the brembos popped up... worked minto Yeah ordered locally (HC800) but they were out of stock so the HC+ had to come from Japan. annoying but car wasn't driving so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯