CRSKmD

This build is very cool. The attention to detail is awesome Commenting to stay subscribed.

got lucky $750 for the diff freshly inspected and setup and $850 for the set of rims with stuffed tyres

Booked a track day and was able to finally to stretch the cars legs with the new tune. Bought a new set of wheels for track use, 17x9 +25 Rays Volk TE Fortresst. think old TE37 + AVS model 6 for the style and fitted up some brand new Hankook RS3 tyres to them in a 255/40/17. Got some help fitting them up The wheel and tyre combo was bigger in practice than in theory. In theory they should have been +5mm each side fro tyre and -3 offset on the rim resulting in +2mm on the outside edge and 8mm on inside effective when compared to my 17x9 +22 AVS T7 with 245/40/17 but the Hankook tyres were bigger resulting in some rub. haha sorted that out then on to wiring. perfect thing to be doing at midnight the night before track day. Got out to Mallala nice and early and unpacked the car out on track ended the day with a jerrycan rescue for one of my mates also driving at the day. Short video of one of my laps. My phone ran out of storage before the best lap of the day but i managed improved a few seconds on my best lap last visit with a 1:26.8. Overall it was a great day with only a few minor issues but i drove there, did the track day. then drove home so i call that a win.

I approve of this update. can't wait to hear results!

In an effort to reduce the laggy feel i went and bought a 4.36 ratio diff to replace my 4.08. the whole time i thought i had a Nismo GT 2 way but as it turn out it was a 1.5way hard to tell until i looked at it side by side with the new 4.36 nismo 2 way i bought. the new diff i bought is a 5 bolts vs the 6 bolt i had before. so nice upgrade there i also wanted to fix the excessive front camber i have which was -3.8'. I did this by buying some superpro adjustable poly bushes. the old ones literally smelt like poo when we pushed them out haha got under the car to swap out the diff and noticed this subframe had to come out to fix this and at the same time i noticed my exhaust had done this to the rear bar also the bushes were well buggered. I had been using metal subframe lock collars but it really was a bandaid solution. burning out the old bushes. ended up with whiteline poly bushes. i toyed with the idea of metal subframe risers but the whitelines came up for a good deal and it is still a street car. however even with a press the back two bushes were a pain to do and ended up up having to make this contraption up to get them in. Made from two Daihatsu strut tops drilled out and a pulley puller with a breaker bar and a jack pole while it was out i scrubbed up and painted the subframe and arms. looked nicer imo and protects from rust

Unfortunately i was unable to look any further into the GTS4. but here is a potatocam drive by to enjoy I plan to film a better clip at a laterdate.

yeah you can get the variable ones which you can go from 100/0 right up to 50/50 drive bias. but the AWD chassis still has less lock and more weight

way i see it AWD good for Grip and potentially safer/faster around track and during "spirited" driving. But worse for Skids and U-turns

so i have the opportunity to get a GTS4 sedan. Can anyone convince me not to and stick with the RWD

Drives pretty well. Only done a few freeway pulls so far have not had a chance to take it for a proper drive

RB20DET silvertop stock TD05-18g 8cm AT Performance high mount steampipe manifold 45mm turbosmart hypergate 1000cc injectors Z32 AFM Nistune + flexboard Ebay FFP (plamzaman style) 3" turbo back exhaust 19.5psi both runs E85 270kw/360hp 412nm/300lb.ft BP98 241kw/323hp 365nm/270lb.ft tuned at Garage 7

Got the new motor in and running. Manifold patched up. Took car back for the tune. ft. daily and here are the results!

Time to pull out the old motor. It has served me well with over 3 years of NA+T including daily, hills and track driving. New long motor picked up. daily daihatsu FTW old motor out I got to work thoroughly cleaning the new motor while i had the chance. this next photos shows the level i got to.... mildly obsessive as i was transferring stuff across i found the source of my boost leak contacted the fabricator and it was repaired under warranty. with this patched up and strengthened the response should be a lot lot better to clarify the reason for the crack was due to the manifold being made with a non standard flange so the collector had been ported out to fit. unfortunately this made the walls thinner and the above happened. The normal flange used is custom made to suit the collector and would not have had any issues

thank mate, always fun to follow other peoples progress

RB20 long motor 185-190psi compression on 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 90psi on 4. leak down shows it is a cracked piston ring allegedly has GTR cams head is still good. motor suit parts, thrash car or rebuild $250ono 0416580223

246.5 kw on BP98 18.5psi did not make it to the e85 tune. full boost at just over 4.8k but had a leak causing lag somewhere before the turbo. next time through it should get full boost at 4 based off a RB20det with the same manifold/turbo setup and 140psi on all 6. unfortunately my motor was not as healthy as the previous test showed. 1 - 185 2 - 190 3 - 190 4 - 90 5 - 190 6 - 190 was smoking out the at 2000rpm from the breathers. not oil just vapor (catch can was dry). still made 246kw with the cylinder on lower compression cheers mate. keep tuned for what happens next thanks, i had thoughts of a 25 neo but decided to stick the 20. But now i am putting a new long motor in and going for round 2. it idles fine and makes power but it is not what i want for this car so the new motor is being dropped in. sticking tot he 20 as my tune and part will all transfer across

took some time to get it all together. lines did not fit up nicely so i got other fittings to make it work. injectors next as well as cleaning up the motor a bit to go from this to this On to the dyno to get the tune happening...

Wanted to buy RB20DE or RB20DET. Will want to have it inspected at my cost. 0416 580 223

440cc R32 GTR injectors and resistor pack. Good upgrade for RB20. $250 Located 5062

ah i wish i could have gotten this discount before when i ordered my LED's from you! haha. Good product though been working mint with no "hot/cold" spots for over a year now

Tune booked for 18/01/16. hopefully i can get everything sorted and installed by then!

While getting the Exhaust Fabrication done we noticed that the AC line sits uncomfortably close to the manifold. Call me crazy but having working AC in a street car in Australian is something i like and want to make every effort to keep. The solution we came up with is heatwrapping the manifold and screamer and placing some heatsheild between the lines. No "Bolt on" Job is ever without problems and the next stage of running lines was no exception. i found that the stock water line location on the block had been blocked up with what look like a banjo bolt done up flush to the block. unfortunately the person that did this rounded the bolt head and it is now in a position such that a socket will not fit over the bolt head as the casting on the block is in the way. and the two accessible sides are so stripped that an open ended spanner is not an option. [/url] I have chosen to run the line instead from the stock water drain bolt which is just below the water feed. the use of a NPT to -6AN fitting is needed and has been ordered. the previous lines ran from other location which were messy and wanted to clean up the bay while doing this turbo upgrade

haha there was temptation to start it as NA just to hear it yup. exhaust fab is happening now then have to plumb up lines and such. then finally a tune

So. No i am not changing it to NA. Instead... AT performance Steampipe manifold. 45mm turbosmart external gate. TD05H-18g

that certainly is how it looks based on those photos... haha