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CRSKmD

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Everything posted by CRSKmD

  1. I went away so this is still a future me problem.
  2. 6/8 line up the two middle ones on the drivers side don’t. If it bothers me I was gonna make an adapter tab up for them so all holes have fasteners
  3. there was a set on yahoo japan the other week but they were rough and $800AUD
  4. i bought ISC COils in 2013. I have had no issues but having been in cars with various MCA setups id say do it right the first time
  5. While im waiting on seals and trying to work out hoses for the Neo I put my attention onto brakes. I had picked up a set of Brembos in average condition. gave them a sand back and primer same 3 layer pearl paint as seen on bay and covers stickered up sunlight shot some comparison between the GTS-T 4 pots that came off. Interestingly the Rears have a smaller casting despite the larger piston, disc thickness and pad. Pad comparions In before "the 2k paint isn't heat proof" I am aware but should still hold up as well as the old rattlecan paint did over 4 years. unfortunately my rotors are still on the way in and the new pads are still a while off so now my car has strong Fast and Furious vibes #JesseAintGotNothingOnMe
  6. awesome help. @NEO25T are they factory neo heater lines straight onto an R32 shell? if so were the ID/OD matching
  7. where do you live?
  8. can anyone confirm about the back fo block to heater core hoses bieng different size/shape
  9. @Jordy32 Legend thanks
  10. Not sure if correct place admin please move if needed. Half way through a RB25DET neo into R32 swap and needing to replace the heater and other hoses. from what i can gather the RB25DET Neo heater hoses are what i need but please correct me if i am wrong. apart from OEM what options are out there. i have found Misc eBay ones mainly listing RB26 or R33 25 and JJR do not list a Neo kit.
  11. purely commenting to stay up to date with cool finds
  12. Got the correct water pump in. I was shocked from the customer service level of the online store They even sent me the correct one straight away before asking me to send back the wrong one and they said they will refund the return shipping. new water pump, idlers and timing belt fitted. yes it was all TDC when put on i had just cranked it over a few time to get the correct tension as per the service manual. Timing cover that came with the car was pretty yeah nah so picked up a nice fresh one i also sanded back the lettering on the RB20 coilpack cover
  13. Got the manifold back from ceramic coat. decided to do it right this time and piss off the heat wrap. Had it done at Ceramic Coat Australia who do the coating for PaceMaker. no pictures of the process but they blast it with an aluminium medium bead blaster. Then the ceramic coat goes on follow by being baked. that collector though mock fitted up
  14. i was in NZ about this time last year!
  15. fantastic. i think i have seen this before? but commenting to stay subscribled
  16. cheers mate! i will continue to update as this progresses i was tempted to paint the car at the same time. but if it was being painted i might as well widebody and if.... yeah nah not gonna let this snowball anymore haha. Motor, Loom, ECU and painted bay is enough for one hit
  17. I picked up some parts including a new 10cm turbine housing to give the little TD05H-18g a bit more room up the top, Gate timing belt and GMB water pump along with associated seals. cam seals and front main seal in. The front main seal was a pain for some reason and when pushing it in the retaining spring would pop out. managed to get around this by cutting up an old rattlecan lid to made a guide tube. unfortunately the water pump was incorrect. Even though i specified RB25DET neo R34 on ordering. i got a WP898 which is for RB30, RB20 and early RB26 from what i have found. Note the slotted vs single hole. some people have said they left out the top mounting bolt with no issues but im not about that. thankfully i contacted the company and they have already sent out the correct pump at no charge. 8cm vs 10cm turbine housings 10cm installed also gave the compressor housing a scrub up while it was off
  18. Cheers mate! the paint after primer is as follows: 1. base was just a plain black automotive acrylic 2. clear base coat (intercoat) mixed with Purple-Pink Nightshade Candy pearl powder from Paint With Pearl 3. 2k Clear with fast activator the paint with pearl people have a whole lot of interesting additives like glow in the dark and thermal active paints that i wouldn't mind checking out at some point!
  19. I attacked the rust then covered with some kill rust before hitting the whole bay with Primer gave the whole thing a rub down and clean before laying down the first layer of base coat. i practiced first on the Cam covers which accepted the black base nicely. Moved onto the bay when this happened... whole bay was cleaned with soap then rinsed off and wiped down with wax/grease remover and thoroughly dried before painting. Unfortunately i managed to get a light coating over the whole bay and had just completed my first wet coat before it started to show. Talking to a painter i knew. Apparently the factory bay paint is acrylic and can be a bit touchy with high solvent content acrylic paints. My base was 2:1 paint:thinners. as i was set up and i the cam covers black had gone on fine i continued the process as i only had a short window to get all coats on for it to work properly as for the Bay this mean going back to square 1 (or -1 as the case may be). The sizzled paint was not easy to get off and had eaten its way down a few layers. The whole process of taking back the paint set me back about 2 days. The black base was much harder to sand that the factory paint had been. Etch primered and the reprimed with a paint that i trusted. First layer of paint (base coat black) Intercoat of Clear base mixed with a powder Pink/Purple pearl pearl over black 2k Clear some close ups for my first time painting with pearl in a 3 layer job im pretty proud of what i managed to accomplish! the photos simply do not do the paint justice
  20. Removed most things from the engine bay and taped up anything that i didnt want to get wet. From here I started de-griming. None of these pictures have had any paint. Just a damn good scrub. I started by spraying with heavy duty de-greaser. Let sit for a few minutes and agitated with a paint brush then scrubbed the more stubbon bits with an old scotchbrite pad from the kitchen. Sprayed off with water. then wiped down with an old microfiber cloth. Repeated as needed
  21. FFP setup sold
  22. RB20DET bits for sale located 5062 SA will post RB20DE/T front facing plenum and stainless lobster welded cold pipe. goes under battery tray $400 Splitfire coilpacks suit RB20/RB25/RB26 SF-DIS-001 $350 the set GReddy Profec b spec II boost controller $350
  23. well now the motor is out and the big job of cleaning up this mess begins. Stay tuned
  24. With rego running out i figured it was a good excuse to take it off the road and begin the RB25DET Neo swap. But before that happened i headed out and with the help of my girlfriend put together this video while it was still a 290kw RB20 powered thing. Enjoy!
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