CRSKmD

Engine Bay cleanup and tune As seen earlier in this thread i started a cleanup of the enginebay. first i did FMIC and stock airbox. then FFP folowed by the Lobster welded intake. part 2 of the clean up involved not making it look like poo. closer shot. painted plenum and piping black new joiners and clamps. painted engine. NDR Fab lobster cold-side to replace the massive blue joiner. Shot of Cold-side. note the bung to keep AAC working. stilla ways to go such as surrounding wiring, paint the bay etc but realistically thats an engine outjob. next came the basic supporting mods. Z32 AFM, R32 GTR injectors+resistor pack, Nistune. I had already put in a Profec B spec II earlier in the year. 11psi RB25 neo 13psi (wasnt happy no matter what we did) before 11psi and after 13psi on same sheet. i just keep it on 11psi because the extra 5kw up top isnt really worth the extra 2psi haha, ceramic wheel and all. overall pretty happy with the results considering the mod list. nice almost NA-ish power delivery RB20DE+T RB25 neo turbo (OP6) Z32 AFM R32 GTR injectors FMIC FFP (doesnt really do anything, same runner length etc) turbo back 3"

yeah haha at the time i had almost 0 rear camber for tyre wear. and the cop said "there was no room in the guard for anything and if i hit a pot hole the tyre would explode"

more track days RB25box in place this time. gave me a chance to get a good feel for the car. Turned out it was understeering atrociously. so after the track day was done and dusted i decided to look into what the cause might have been. Before i could get to that though. this happened luckily it ended up being a copshop visit for "incorrect wheel/tyre size fitted". before i headed down there i fitted stock suspension type m bar and some less pokey wheels plus made the exhaust quieter. I did want to give them any reason to direct me to regency after clearing the defect and putting parts back in i noticed my coilover spring rates were a bit out from what i expected/ordered. 6kg rear 12kg front... fitted up 8kg fronts i also changed the setup from hellaflush to hellafunctional. (eyebrow heights were 290F 295R. now they are 335F 330R) Just for good measure and to aid the understeery issues i fitted up some 245/40/17 Goodride RS tyres as i had heard good thing and they were cheap. The tyres were 225/40 F 235/45 R then i got a wheel alignment with a fairly neutral front toe set. all said and done this is how it ended up before (still type m bar photo) and after.

I daily mine in traffic. once you get used to the slight change in take off/driving style its so so easy. that said i also have a larger slave cylinder.

might be because my chassis was auto NA factory? not sure but it all fitted int he end haha

New intake time. i had rocked the stock airbox and intake for a while and liked the stealthiness of it but sometimes you just need some noise! paid a friend to make me up a lobster intake. by no means perfect but im was more than happy with the result and the resulting sound was great MASSIVE induction noise + VL turbo spec dose thanks to the missing BOV due to FFP. save the "going to break your turbo blah blah" heard it before don't care. been running like this with no issues or boost spikes for 15,000kms and no shaftplay. plus if the turbo eventually goes it just means its time for a new/bigger setup

RB25DET gearbox. pickup a second had gearbox and got it checked over by 1110 Engineering. Also got a manual tailshaft and got it cut, shut and balanced. Don't believe what people tell you, from my experience no standard nissan gearbox crossmembers bolt rightup (tried the CA18,SR20,RB20,RB25 manual and auto varients of each +tried them all bother ways around) best i could get was 2/4 Took some measurements and went back to 1110 for him to weld my up a crossmember. (man i have to learn to weld someday). size comparisons Checked the clutch while the box was out still mint. (forgot to mention some time in 2013 i replaced the slipping HD clutch with a NPC carbonic cushioned button clutch + a slightly lightened flywheel) which looked like this.

Cheers guys

yeah it was, nice and filthy haha You had that N1 GTR?

Time for my very first trackday. I remember the first thing my dad said when i told him my intentions " alright, but be prepared to bring it back on a trailer." I signed up for Drift Techniques out at Tailem Bend. skidrims fitted. fluro represent! not much ground clearance with the skidrims on... checking for tyre wear with an instructor int he car working on tight cone work started too get it as dad predicted on the trailer to take it home. thankfully i had some awesome mates with even worse luck willing to take my car back for me. Managed to do some gearbox damage Here is what came out of the sump plug when i dropped the gearbox oil. all in all i dont regret the day and the damage even though my day was over my 11am. I learnt a bit and the damnage just meant an excuse for an upgrade...

its a fiberglass GTRstyle bar made to suit GTST reo/guards.

how hard will it be to get rego back on it with the track orientated mods?

As much as I always stood by my Type M bar and said that GTR front bar's only belong on GTR's a good deal came up and it is hard to deny that the GTR bar just looks better. The bar had some damage and the bar was Bayside Blue (which my car was not). However it matched close enough and look great in my opinion. side by side with mates 2 door with FiberGross GTR (ish) bar

First Dyno day Untuned RB20DE+T RB25 Neo turbo 3" catback Fmic FFP 179.3KW 355nM

Brake upgrade time. finally had to justify changing to 17" rims and follow through with the brakes. stocks upgrade goodies. decided on some DBA T3 "club Spec" rotors and bendix ultimate pads(good balance between performance noise and dust on a daily driven car in my opinion) rotor comparison cleaned up and painted rotors I used metalcast paint. this took forever due to the 25 + years of brake dust! gently sanded back to basecoat to make the nissan logo pop a bit more. fitted up with caliper adapter. as you can see not all of the rotor surface is used but the extra leverage it gets and the better cooling made a noticable difference. wheel on side by side comparison full car side shot

Coilover time. also installed adjustable caste and toe arms. plus replaced the flogged out camber arms and parked up at work

Dropped into Jaustech for a checkup and they told me that my rotors where below minimum thickness and one was infact warped! I figured if i ahve to replace them i might aswell upgrade. I decided on going to 324mm (R33 Brembo size) rotors and a caliper adapter to run the 4 pots. this plan also means i can drop in the R33 Bremo's down the line if i desire. As much as i liked the GTR wheels, 16" was not going to be able to clear the new brake setup so i began the hunt for a new set of wheels. What i decided on was a set of Advan AVS model T7's in a 17x9 +22 all around. i picked these up in...well used...condition from Stewy. Basically all of the wheels were like this to some extent. fixed and primed colour coat. actually really digged the matte look and almost left it there. first coat of clear clear done close up shot. hard to see here but tis gunmetal with slight blue pearl. finish isnt perfect but i was more than happy with them . fitted up some scrappies to get me rolling This depleted my money for a while so brakes had to wait. All Japan Day 2014

Cheers mate. Light output is phenomenal as well. Pre tune I made about 175kw. Post tune I made 206kw. I still have a ways of updates to go until I'm up to current day

As awesome as it was having cheap HID's in factory projectors not designed for them. the light output was atrocious and it had some seriously bad defractions going on. I upgraded the projectors to (morimoto mini) Bi-Xenons from Loudz Creations and I also fitted some “demon eyes” for added wank factor. Finished product: Loose guide: (if anyone is more interested feel free to contact me with any questions) i picked up another pair of factory projector headlights so my car did no ahve to be off the road for any length of time. remove glass lens. i used a heatgun as death was not worth using the oven. unscrew and pop out shroud side by side shot of the factory and the new ones. they are smaller but specifically designed for HID's (curvature for focus etc). note the clearer glass clearly they are not going to just bolt in. i cut the bracket off the factory ones so that i could retain the factory adjustments i digged the blacked outlook for my car so i did the same again. (light sand, plastic adhesion primer, high temp satin black). test fitted new projector in hole. "Demon eyes" dissassembled the new projectors and stuck some cree LEDs behind in a ring pointing inwards. sequred with high temp copper silicon (gets hot when HIDS running) test photo of leds on re assembled lights: to attach the projector to the OEM bracket i sued some electrical standoffs and some simple brackets bad from scrap alloy

cheers man i really think it squares off the back nicely. Just a subtle look compared to some other more aggressive boots lips

Blew up rb20 turbo and figured that the one thing my untuned NA motor needed was a bigger turbo. so i found an RB25 neo (OP6) and fitted that up. Around the same time i also installed a Front Facing Plenum. Yes it looks horrible and messy here. Fear not as I cleaned it up down the track but that how it sat for a while.

very tidy car. What's planned? looks damn near perfect to me

S13 bootlip (Origin?) New exhaust. An old AM performance build that solomon had on his 32 years back. this exhaust is a bit of a broad minded person and has been on many R32's centre varex (cut and shut for ground cleance) stainless 3" then out to Ti tips Cracked headlight so bought a pair of projectors and blacked them out and installed some jaycar HIDs Also fitted some orange indicators while i was at it.

not sure if anybody cares but im going to keep going with this. I got stuck three wheeling and thought the only really solution is a 2way Nismo LSD. while fititng it inoticed my rear sway bar was missing entirely and fitted up a GTR one. BOY did that make a difference! open diff +no sway bar -> tight 2 way and GTR sway bar. some spacers where bought to fill out the guards. I found a Type M 2 door interior for a price that was to good to pass. fitted the seats, dash center console and sold the rest. while i was at it i replaced all the speakers and ran fresh wiring. AJD 2013 i entered All japan day for the first time which was a fantastic experience which i recommend to anybody who hasn't done anything similar. Here few pictures from he day below.

2013 I decided the car was much too quiet and bought a set of drift pipes for it. This hung very low and came up underneath the fuel tank. Buuut sounded the business. Picked up a front lip from a type S R32 and tested it on my Type M bar. It “fit” bar the gap in the middle. There is a point in which having a front lip is not practical. I found that point… As I wanted to start modding it and getting it to run right I went and bought used universal FMIC kit. It was fitted to an RB20det R31 so I figured it would fit. I found out why it was running so terrible. The motor had stock RB20DE injectors and ECU with a turbo bolted. Basically as soon as it hit 3psi of boost it would pull timing and drop in to limp mode. So I sourced a set of RB20DET injectors + ‘tuned’ ecu from a cefiro