GarettH

Thanks for the replies guys, I hope paypal can see through and get it sorted out. But like Kiwi said Bosch sell there base injectors which ID(injector dynamics) takes and modify. He even said he would refund me if Im not happy that there bosch and not ID2000s and then when I said I would like that he said no and that I cant prove there ID injectors

gm747 is a scammer Hey Guys, I've looked and can not find where I'm suppose to post this but feel free to move it to the correct section. To start GM747 is a thief and scammer, I found his advertisement on SAU selling ID2000 injectors. Heres a link to his thread. You can see in the pictures he claims they are genuine ID injectors not Bosch and confirms when I message him they are ID injectors in 100% working condition with only dyno time. Then as you will see in the pictures he send me they also do not come with the Injector extension and also damaged!! This is picture he send me.. no extensions and scuffed He then goes on to tell me in his AD he said they were not included and after I proved to him they were not ID injectors since there is no stamping he trys to tell me they are a BOSCH injector and he never said there and Injector Dynamics. Even though he already told another member they are not bosch and genuine ID. Please ban this member as hes trying to sell a plazaman manifold for $2000 and thats even more to loose out on them I already am.

Yea of course, the maximum numbers dont mean a hole lot but more so that they claim all 6 cylinders are very closely balanced as apposed to the oem one.

They have flow tests of these manifolds without the velocity stacks vs stock manifold and it was extremely pleasing all cylinders with were very close compared to the oem which didnt supply enough to cyl 5 and 6. They dont have flow tests with velocity stacks so id probably opt out on them

For sale as a package is. 2 Garrett GT2860-5s that have just been upgraded to GTX2860-5s billet compressor wheels, which flow up to 40hp more per turbo then the original GT series and spool quicker also. These turbos have been upgraded/balanced by a reputable shop and I have invoices. Brand new 2 GTX2860r-5s would cost you $4000+ Canadian and im looking for $2600 Canadian which i believe is also 2600AUD and they come with wastegates/ported stock manifolds and 6boost metal exhaust gaskets. Message me if interested or want more details.

Not clear on which topic this might go under, but I've tried researching for sometime on this strut bar and have come up empty handed. Anyone know what brand strut bar this is or if its custom?

Really thats strange, do you know where its rubbing? Ive definitely been over 200 a few times and have not located any markings yet. Do you have the 43mm rad or 53mm?

I have a koyo rad, factory shroud, new clutch fan and nismo engine mounts and needed no trimming.

Thanks for the reply! I think ill just have to pass on drilling the oil returns out for now. I read RIPZ from NZ has actually never even drilled his returns out.

Thanks for the link its a very good read and answered my question about venting the sump. As for the head drain i was referring to drilling out the return galleries not the external head drain kit. As stated i already have r34 crank, tomei oil pump, oil supply restrictor and extended sump. Ill just vent the sump now

There lot's of guys running stock rods with upgraded arp bolts but like Bob said definitely replace the oil pump. To be honest though, why go through the hassle and paying the machining to have a stock internal engine again and only to be slightly more reliable then stock? If your only after stock power then certainly a just a unopened well maintained rb26 will do you fine.

Ah that's to bad, but i figured that anyways. I think for me the r34 crank/ tomei pump/ head oil restriction/ extended/baffled sump and once I figure out a sump vent that I should be pretty covered for my needs. My 100% unopened rb26 made 622whp@19 psi, looking for 800ish now and not reving past 8000. And only street driven/few races a year and only 1 or 2 1/4 Mile days. Do you have any recommendation on a sump vent setup? There were no diagrams or such in the oiling thread. or is it simply just PCV-Valve Covers- Catch Can and then returned to sump?

I built my own wiring harness and a bracket so my ls6 coils fit under the oem cover. 622whp @19 and not a single issue.

Hey guys after my engine already being built balanced etc.. I've been reading on drilling the head/block oil returns. I have tried searching and read through 30 pages or so on the rb oiling sticky. I'm trying to combat all oil issues so its never a problem, currently my bottom end consists of a brand new r34 crank, cp pistons, eagle rods, journals line honed, cosworth bearings, greddy trust extended sump, tomei 1.2mm head restriction, ati dampner. And still researching if i should do the head drain to sump or just vent the sump via catch can. My main question is if i drill out the oil return galleries will i need to have everything cleaned, hot tanked again etc...

I have for sale a "used" Precision Turbo 6262. This turbo has been ran under 500km and was only used at wastegate pressure 12 psi. The only reason for selling is it was a long wait time for my other turbo to be built. This turbo is flawless ready to make 500+ hp and STILL HAS WARRANTY. Specs are Anti surge compressor housing (4" inlet, 2.5" Outlet" T4 Twin scroll .84 AR I also have a spare exhaust housing off a 6262 that could be used its a T3 .63 AR. Journal Bearing. Brand new this turbo is $1100 U.S which is 710 GBP and that doesn't include shipping and handeling. My price is set firm at 500 GBP which included shipping. Save your self $200+ GBP for a practically brand new turbo with warranty

Thanks for the reply, No markings on outside of ecu heres a couple pictures off the inside.

Stock gauge reads 1 bar

I see I've attracted some trolls. Sorry for being so basic but company's do offer "stages" although I probably shouldn't feed you, I clearly stated he has dyno sheets of his car and these numbers are not made up. Putting all that behind us it has a Active Autowerkes Stage 2 Supercharger kit(Rotrex C38-81 Supercharger)

I'd like to start with I'm in no way condoning street racing and simply asking for some opinions. So I'll start off with why I've made this thread. I'm trying to figure out if I have stock GTR turbos, I imported my 1991 GTR last year and was pretty much bone stock with 128,000km. It had the 100,000km done in Japan came only with Work Equips, St. May Jasma exhaust and thats it, even stock air box. The car now has 18x10 Work XD9 wheels, Tomei Titanium Exhaust and Apexi intakes. The car came with the stock boost restrictor in so I removed that also. From what I've read a R32 GTR with exhaust, intake, boost restrictor out should make around 350 hp at the crank. I've raced multiple Subaru STI's of all years 2004, 2006, 2008 all with a cobb stage 2 kits and have beaten every one by at least 2 cars. I've raced a couple SR20s from a roll and it's also not even close. But recently I raced a friend with a 1998 BMW M3 with a stage 2 supercharger with dyno sheets showing 420 hp @ the crank so probably around 370 whp. From a dig it wasn't even close but from a 40 roll by 4th gear I was ahead by 2 cars and I had misfire. So i tried to take off some pipng to see if i could find stamping on the turbos but it's damn near impossible to see anything. So i'm looking for opinions if you think there stock or upgraded. Feel free to say what cars you have raced with your basic bolt on GTR.

Really wow I thought it was closer to 340 on both, and I'm after best of both worlds. I like the look of having a lower car but don't want to loose performance, I might try to get away with 340/340 and see how it drives

Hey guys I own a 1991 R32 GTR I recently just put HSD Monotube coilovers on. I currently have 18x10 +18 Work XD9's and the guards are not currently rolled but will be soon. I max'd the coils front and rear and the front were about 323mm from the center to the top arch and the rear is 330mm from the center to the arch. Now I know of the consequences of running a GTR to low, Bump steer, CV boots and the drive shaft being on an acute angle and loosing HP. The answer I can't find is at what height this becomes a problem, I like the look of the car running 330mm front and rear for height just wondering if you guys think this is to low and the following problems will occur, Thanks!

Thanks for the replies! I'm looking for an aggressive stance since I have a Dmax FRP hood, TS difuser, bomex side skirts and ab flug front lip to go along with them! I'm thinking 265/35 is the way to go

Hey everyone, been along time lurker of the forum and finally needed to make an account to ask for some help. I have some Work XD9 18x10 + 18 on the way for my R32 GTR. What tyre size would you guys recommend? I'm guessing I will need to roll the guards flush. Any pictures of other gtrs with 18x10 would also help. Thanks in advance!