Lithium

I am sure that if the car drives in such a way that he has been excited by it, the numbers probably are reflected in driving experience

Robs turbo choice may have actually been a customer's turbo choice. The catch with choosing turbos is also that sometimes the "optimal" combination of bits isn't always the major decider, given cost/options/preferred "drive" may have a weighting on it too. If a GT4094R makes a reasonable amount more power than a GT4088R, with a fair amount better spool than a GT4294R when the user wants something that fits in between - what existing alternatives would you recommend DP, theoretical mismatch aside? The difference in lag between a GT4088R and a GT4094R is a lot more trivial than that between a GT4294R and a GT4088R, that has been well proven. I always have often felt (though still trying to learn about the things) that given the GT4088R's turbine flows a fair bit more than the T67-BB's P-trim yet the compressor doesn't pump quite as aggressively, that the turbine could possibly take a bit more compressor when used on a smaller (than the diesels it would be used to) motor? The 94mm is "just" a 52trim, remember...

What I mean is do you have reference to numbers proving this or are you just assuming? Because of the physical frame size of GT4088Rs (and the somehow daunting sounding name) people seem to assume they are big laggy turbos. The T04Z's compressor is actually physically larger than the GT4088Rs, and of course an old T-series unit which if you believe the hype isn't as aerodynamically efficient - I know the GT4088Rs have been getting increasingly popular with Supra and RX7 owners Stateside for their nice power delivery. RIPS is building a GTR with a GT4094R on an RB30 which should be interesting to compare with the T04Z RB30s he has built in the past, I expect the 94R to be a bit laggier as its a step in between the GT40R and GT42R but I would be surprised if it turns out 800rpm laggier than the T04Z setups. I wouldn't be too surprised if it isn't more than 500rpm laggier despite being the GT4088Rs big brother, it could be one to watch for big power with response RB fans - safe bet whatever it does a GT4088R will do with a bit less top end and a bit more response.

Are you sure about spooling 1000rpm faster? Where did you get that idea? Admittedly I haven't been in a car running a GT4088R *YET* but everything I have seen and heard talking to people running them put them as a slightly quicker and smoother spool than a T04Z, and not too far dissimilar power.

Nah sorry, I had to harrass Andre a fair bit just to get the dyno plot - he is really busy due to drag season starting in NZ and he has methanol drag cars with big huge turbos to play with and I feel bad rattling cages asking for info on mediocre power cars with that kind of thing going on. It basically hit around 16psi by 3700rpm, dropped a bit then climbed to around 17psi in the 4-5krpm area and dropped down to 15-16psi in the 5000-6000rpm area and levelled off there... from memory.

Here is a dyno plot from a dyno day the other weekend, shows the waver I described that happens when the valve opens but basically represents a far more solid power delivery than the old curve: Overlayed the old vs new using the SAU/Godzilla motorsports (!?) dyno database: http://tools.godzillamotorsport.com/dyno/l...=76,108&Y=R Also was a cool day in the fact the car had the highest figure for the day until a Lamborghini Gallardo came along and pegged me by 3 lowsy kw lol

1997 R33 GTS25t Unopened RB25DET, 165,000kms Stock coil packs with some silicone goo to beef up insulation, stock intake and exh manifolds BP Ultimate 98 Fuel Nismo 555cc injectors Walbro 255lb/hr fuel pumpfgvbbbb GTSLink Plugin ECU Apexi AVC-R boost controller with Norgren pressure relief valve aiding spool Cheap random 600x300x76mm front mount intercooler K&N filter with 4" intake Garrett GT3076R .82a/r Internally gated turbo Trust Power Extreme 2 exhaust

OK yeah I started pushing it bit more off topic - the initial point was the best solution would be a hub dyno but if you don't have one available there clearly must be ways of making them hold most of the power.

... list bunch of things required to work around the inadequacies of rolling road dynos? Changing ramp rates, using different tyres etc all alter variables etc. I have decided that my runs on rolling road dynos have been about as useful as taking a drunk mate home from the pub and asking him how fast it feels in terms of looking for comparing power figures - the main use a rolling road dyno is you can go WOT in a controlled environment for tuning etc. Unless your car tries to jump off the dyno. Vid of mine running fairly low boost on a roller dyno, needing two people in the boot and still moving enough to whack one of the people in the boot on the head when the car "unloads" after the run which is more of a testament to how dodgey using rollers is than to any grunt my car was (or really wasn't) making. Even without obvious wheelspin, the torque curve never mimicks that of on a hub dyno - it seemed to alway be clipped after it reached a certain point in the rev range where the equivalent setup on a hub dyno would follow a more standard torque curve shape.

Hopefully more and more people start going to Dynapacks for this kind of reason, I just won't run my car on rolling roads - don't trust them.

I am not running 19psi, that was just a booboo while refining my boost control - I have made posts in the past on my dramas trying to get the boost control sorted out. It made 284rwkw this weekend with boost varying between 15-17psi When it spiked to 19.9psi it hit 180rwkw by 3700rpm!!!!!

Oh yeah not knocking it, its a good result and I can imagine is a monster on the street. I have been keeping an eye out for Holsets results as many people claims for them seem almost too good to be true - I only said that to get your feeling on it. It is pretty much what I would expect a good and reasonable sized plain bearing turbo to do, which means its not magic but it represents good value for money which is how I have suspected Holsets really are. A "GT3582R" is a "GT3540R", Garrett changed their naming convention a few years ago. The 82 bit refers to the mm size of the compressor exducer, not turbine a/r My car is running a .82a/r GT3076R on a stock RB25 with a stock log manifold and I had a few dyno runs this weekend to sort out boost control and had it hit 19psi by 3700rpm in one run where the "gain" was set higher than needed!

Nice, sounds like a LOT of fun - but full boost at 3800rpm isn't as good as I would have hoped to have heard, these are supposed to be similar to a GT3076R in terms of spool and slightly better in terms of flow? I am pretty sure GT3582Rs are making that boost by those revs on RB30s?

It is a discussion forum, but this post isn't a "Lets discuss car thefts" its more like a "PLEASE HELP!" - this is a discussion forum and we don't have to ask permission for our posts, but showing a bit of courtesy shouldn't be a tall ask for most reasonable humans. I guess the world is full of good and bad people, otherwise we wouldn't have car thefts.

Fwiw, the reason I have my car back is due to the amount of eyes on the lookout for it

My car was stolen from outside my girlfriends place under lighting in a respectable area of Wellington on a bit of a one off situation where I left it on the road for a little while - no off road parking there and you know how it is with unexpected "conversations" with the missus. Definitely not the normal, and trust me - I am very careful with the car. Very much a case where the one time you drop your guard even a bit, you come back out and the car is gone. And by say "drop my guard" the car was locked, alarm armed and it had an immobiliser. One of my mates cars was stolen recently from a locked workshop when it was in for panel and paint work - what wisdom are you going to offer, he should have anchored it, done character references on all employees (and their friends) of the shop, put up bars, maybe some concrete fences around the outside of the shop and hired security for it? You sound like the type of person who would say a naturally good looking girl had it coming to her if she was raped... I have very little time for car theives and anyone else who makes a victim of people living their life day to day. You sound like you have more contempt for the victims than the thieves. Seriously, your input has not been asked for by anyone I have seen here - and it definitely hasn't been anything more than an annoyance.

Mine was a high end Dynatron with immobiliser installed by an insurance company approved outfit. Seems the turbo timer can be used as a bit of a way around immobilisers... there are people who will get the car one way or another. I'd love to know what kind of alarm you reckon would stop a car from being loaded up on a tow truck!

Sorry to hear mate, I know your pain What a wanker. Mine was stolen a couple of months ago with alarm, immobiliser etc - there are clearly some pretty clued up car theives out there. Am sure this guy doesn't need a further kick in the guts!

Silicon is a semi-conductor, which would be why I never mentioned using it. Silicone is an insulator, hence the fact you can buy silicone designed specifically made for insulation of electrical componentry..... As I said before, I am almost a year and counting with not even a flinch from my >150,000km old coils which were previously misfiring - I have a post from where I found this solution which I will update if I ever start getting ignition breakdown again.

Yep, around that if I understand correctly

Sounds very much like you are right, I don't know about this taping up trick - the way I did it was with silicone down the bottom/sides and that worked perfectly. My car really wouldn't tolerate much load before trying it and it has been going strong for a good part of a year since I did it, and am running >1bar on a GT30R with it. How it looked after (foreground) and while (background) doing it: The trick is the arc has found a weak path through the insulation on the side of the packs to the metal bracket they sit in and turn it into an easier path to earth than over the spark gap - so make sure its damn near impossible to use that path and fingers crossed it should sort it. Since I have done it, other friends have tried it and also found it to work nicely Should cost you under $20, and takes bugger all time...

Hmm its about 45kg heavier than Heat Treatment's GTR, be interesting to see how much difference shaking some of that weight off would make. Fingers crossed its going to be another good year of GTR drag racing around the world

13Bs are fairly comparable with your typical smaller NA 6 cylinder in torque to be honest, the torque thing IMHO comes from the days where the only fast cars were V8s etc and the same "no torque without FI" sentiment also applies to RBs, SRs etc. Here's a RX7 from NZ running an NA rotary with more torque NA than GTRs come out with:

Ahh right sorry, when I said "I can't run under 12psi with the current setup" I meant with the GT3076R vs the stock turbo - I couldn't run 7psi if I wanted to with the bigger turbo.

I think you'll find that a typical V8 drag car automatic isn't setup quite the same as what the auto in your GTS25t is, hardly apples for apples. You Best tell the funny car and top fueller guys to get rid of their clutch setups and go torque convertor! Of course you CAN get your Jatco rebuilt to handle some decent power and stall/shift more aggressively so it actually does suit drag racing.... I'm not sure what you are getting at or trying to achieve here, if you have something you need help with specify it please. It'll be good to see how you go with the auto - never said it won't go fast, it just could be a challenge unless you have or are going to get it modified to suit what you are doing. Just for clarifications sake - you made 150rwkw on 7psi with stock turbo and I made 180rwkw on 7psi with stock turbo, and you somehow come with a comment lolling I only made 20rwkw more than your stock turbo? Given I made 30kw @ wheels more than you on the same boost with the same turbo, I am actually struggling to work out what you are going on about.