Bliksem

Yep, I agree with everything there, I just pinched that pic off another forum as an example, its certainly nothing to be compared to a 6boost etc

Its not hard to remove the sump and take a look. If its a big end bearing you'll find a heap of copper particles sitting in the sump. You'll also be able to push on the rods to see which one has any signs of movement/wear.... as long as the crank is still ok you should be just looking at some new big end bearings...

Certainly no dramas with CP's here for the past 3 years either.... As for Nitto, I wouldnt hesitate to use it after reading all the positive feedback its received so far.......

http://www.google.com.au/language_tools?hl=en

Probably wired into your car alarm, when a mate installed my alarm he asked if I wanted the mirrors to auto fold in. I think he was able to wire it in to the circuit that automatically wound the windows up when locking the car as well.

They used to come up on Yahoo Austions a fair bit... check import monster

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu...l&hl=beanie

Suprised its not blowing the dipstick out first... Sounds like excessive blow-by to me... have you done a leakdown test?

Actually you can use the oven, the guide on Skyline.se suggests 75deg @ 20 mins Projector Converstion Guide (requires registration)

Log Style manifolds are fairly straight forward for RB's, basically all standard off the shelf steam pipe bends and tees seem to match up perfectly. Heres a pic, granted its a Rb30 head...

In for S1 when it goes ahead.

Excellent mate! any links to the website to see some samples of their work?

What was the criteria you gave to him? Bit confused about the indicator in the headlight :-S

Yeah I'd personally be looking at a Bi-Xenon in the lowbeam position and leaving the factory reflector in the highbeam. The bi-xenon projector uses a motor to alter the shroud position when flicking to high beam and allow the light to disperse in a different pattern. So basically what I mean is to wire the bi-xenon lamp to operate in high beam at the same time as the reflector. Its not ideal to run a seperate HID high beam because HID lamps take a few seconds to reach full output and their service life is reduced by frequently flashing on and off. I suspect the picture above maybe be showing a Halogen highbeam projector setup....

Excellent work PM-R33, although I'd be more interested in an OEM look I'll still be interested to see what you come up with, keep us posted.

Have you inspected the AAC valve?

stainless woven mesh is my material of choice, 5 years of trouble free driving....

Heres a H1 Kit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3RD-PROJECT...sQ5fAccessories Is this just a matter of removing the cover of the headlights fitting this lens into the existing H1 hole and re-sealing the headlight? (and then doing the wiring required) EDIT: Just found this! http://silverwing.org/cgi-bin/topic_show.pl?tid=4696 looks like an easy conversion:

The Nismo pump runs the same 77mm dia gear to the N1 but basically uses the much stronger REINIK / Reimax gear... You could acheive the same thing by pulling the gear set from your standard pump and retrofitting the Reimax gear set to it. You can by both the 81mm (standard size) and (77mm N1 size)

Johnson Peformance Centre http://www.jpc.com.au/?page_id=83 The Nitto Gears sound interesting...

JPC....

I have LMGT2's as well and would be interested in some caps if you end up making some.

Actually the cat's come overlength, all the exhaust shop has to do is cut down each end and weld the flanges on to suit... Its a very easy job.

I have a 5" stainless Catco cat, been on the car for 6 years now without a single problem... horses for courses i think... some claim metal cat is no good either

Same setup as me, the factory ones are supposted to be 1.8mm. How is it working out for you so far? im tossing up whether to fit a large capacity sump to prevent any oil starvation in the bottom end just as some extra precaution...