Shaun

When i said bare head with cams, i meant the head with all the valve train, including cams, and maybe the covers depending on the price you wanted. The only things i dont want are intake and exhaust hardware. Maybe you changed your mind in regards to selling it seperately, how the fcuk do i know if i dont ask? You also said $2500 firm (lol) in your original post, but changed your mind to $2200, so it is possible to change your mind. You're a fcukwit Paul.

How much for the head and cam covers? Not interested in plenum or turbos.

Looks like you'll be keeping it then.

^^^^^ I totally agree. People shouldnt dismiss the positive aspects of carrying out something they've always wanted to do, even if it is slightly more uneconomical. Practicality isnt the only thing to consider. It took me about 3 years to complete my rb26 conversion (due to the expense and some bad luck), but i really enjoyed doing it all myself, and im stoked its now on the road. I couldnt live with an r33 because i think theyre fcuken ugly (just my opinion). I'd rather spend the extra money and have something im really enthusiastic about. And besides, maybe the extra money ($5000-$8000??) means nothing to this guy. Shaun.

Nissan sell em for about $1400 + tax.

I'd be interested in the bare head with cams. Maybe with the covers as well, depending on price. \ If so, how much? Shaun.

Would you seperate the head bits? If so, how much for just the head and covers? Shaun.

I agree. You're probably less likely to crash, especially in the wet. I find different peoples opinions interesting. I suppose thats what makes this forum so good; if everyone thought the same, no one would have performed way out, uneconomical conversions or modifications. Ive always loved the RB26, and i had a great rear wheel drive car, so i created a car that suited my purposes and personal taste. I was also interested in drag racing then, and liked the idea of doing good times in rear wheel drive. I suggest you take all opinions on board, consider you personal situation (finances, daily driver? etc) and make your own decision based on your own preferences and personal tastes. Shaun.

^^^^^ What does that mean?? As a paramedic, ive seen plenty of gtr's wrapped around poles; such as the blue R34 gtr in which three were killed a few years ago on the central coast. Obviously, its how you drive it. I agree that you've got to figure out what you want to achieve with the car, and if your going to keep it, because you'll never get your money back. But at the price of r32 gtr's atm, you'd be hard pressed not to buy one and modify it. Your gtst with 26 will never be a gtr. Hence, when R34 gtr's hit $30k im gettin one! Shaun.

Thanks mate, ill keep that in mind. I just passed the engineers inspection, so ill get rego soon and have the tune finetuned. I think theres a bit of fine tuning to do because its a bit of a dog to drive. Ill update when done, Shaun.

It depends how deep your pockets are! I was in a situation where i had imported a late model R32 gtst that was in awesome condition, and i had reached the upper limits of power for the RB20. A 25 wasnt a huge step up, so i decided on the 26. Also, the 26 is more appealing to the eye than a 20/25 in my opinion. If i had my time over again, i would probably just by an R32 gtr and develop that; but when i started, r32 gtr's were still above $32000, and i couldnt afford that. If its gonna be a daily driver, i dont believe the massive outlay in money is worth it. Id probably capitalise on someone elses loss and buy a modified gtr, and then add your finishing touches. Thanks for the kind words GeeTR! PS i passed my engineering inspection today, so now i can register my car (another headache with an RB26 into a gtst!) Shaun.

I made one from bits and pieces i found at Super Cheap. Either that or buy one from the for sale section; there's heaps of them. Easy as. Shaun.

Hey discopotato, What did you mean by the anti detonation result and regulating boost in lower engine speeds? I originally had the car tuned with the 0.82ar turbine housing (with the same comp ratio), and ended up with catastrophic results. Apparently the turbo came on waaaaay too early and boost was uncontrollable. I therefore, changed to the larger turbine housing (after rebuilding the engine). I must admit though, i didnt think there would be as much difference in the boost threshold of the two housings. A bit dissappointing really. So do you think working the head would be a good way of reducing the boost threshold of the current setup? Im actually looking around for another head to modify while im still using this one. Is modification of exhaust valve diameter (and purchase of new valves) an expensive modification? Thanks, Shaun.

Yeah, i thought cavitation was a bad thing; hence my efforts to avoid it. Everyone actually says to go an oversized pulley if anything. So just to confirm; the rb30 pulley is exactly the same? Shaun.

Thanks but the water pump is a brand new N1 item i think. Its definately not stressed in regards to high rpm for lengthy periods. I was just concerned about the different sized pulleys, but i think your right; im probably splitting hairs. Ill just get rid of the wobbly one and put an rb26/30 item on. Shaun

Mate, if youve got a standard rb26/30 water pump pulley thats straight, ill grab it for sure. Let me know. Thanks, Shaun.

I think the manifold was about $220 + $80 for the dump. I got these done at competition coatings in sydney, but i sent the turbine housing down to HPC in Melbourne because i heard that they were the best. This cost about $220. The wastegate comes from the collector via two pipes and then into one. Cheers.

Hey, ive got the gcg manifold, and although theyre thick walled stainless and look pretty good, its really easy to make a bracket from the manifold turbo flange to the head. Theres a hole in the head thats positioned perfectly. Its really simple but effective at supporting the significant mass of the turbo etc. In the picture of the turbo, you can just see the black bracket behind the earls fitting on the engine side of the turbo. I just tapped some threads into the T4 manifold flange and used a 12mm bolt to secure the bracket to the head Also, i got all my hot bits ceramic coated and, although expensive i think its worth the added thermal effeciency. I also wrapped my dump pipe and wastegate pipe. You can touch it when its running! Any reason you didnt go with the 44mm wastegate? Shaun. .

^^^^^^ What he said. Look at the just jap web site. $895 for a kakimoto exhaust thats legal is pretty good in my opinion. Unfortunately for the workshops out there, there is no need for you to get a custom made exhaust, as theyre available off the shelf for your application. If you want that dodgy guy to do something, get him to fit a metal cat catylitic converter ($330). Take our advice, we've all been through it before. The quality of the jap exhausts is second to none. Shaun.

Hi, Ive got a standard water pump pully on my rb26, but its a bit out of whack and it wobbles more than id like it to. Actually, its throwing off very small pieces of rubber from the belt, so i want to get rid of it. My question is: If i replace the pully with a smaller diameter one (ive got an rb20 one), will it spin the water pump too fast and result in cavitation, therby reducing the cooling efficiency of the coolant? The RB20 pully is 120mm in diameter and th RB26 one is 145mm in diameter. A new RB26 water pump pully is $143 from nissan and im a tight arse, so im trying to save some coin. But if someone has a good second hand one, let me know! Shaun.

Ive got the 1.06 rear on mine. If you want response, dont go the larger housing! Thats why i made it with higher than normal compression, so it would still be ok off boost; and it is. Im getting used to it. I dont understand what you mean by which turbo? Isnt the GT3582R just the gt35 with 0.7 compressor and 0.82 turbine housing?? So does that make mine a GT35106R. Actually, probably not because ive never heard of that turbo and it sounds ridiculous! Someone educate me. Shaun.

No, ive just been in the process of making the exhaust legal (cat converter and screemer pipe plumbing). I just got a noise test done today, and even with the silencer in it was still 96db at 75% of peak power rpm. I fudged it though and only held it at about 50% (3500rpm), so hopefully the engineer doesnt think its dodgy. Ive got the engineer inspection on Thursday, so if i pass ill get a blue slip and off the the rta! I lost a bit of power with the cat in but it still frys the tyres pretty hard. Shaun.

Im having the same problem with the drone of the rb26 with a 1.06 housing. Ive got a 3.5 inch trust TR drag exhaust, and its really loud. How is your 3.5 inch exhaust so quiet? What mufflers do you have on it? I dont really want to restrict too much though, as its cost a lot to get 350rwkw! Shaun.

Thanks mate, but i found a new one for $29.99 on ebay. I would like black though... Shaun.

Hi, i need a 4inch to 3inch reducer of some sort. It has to go from my turbo bellmouth (4inch) to 3 inch piping that goes to my stock air box. Rubber or silicon would be good. Hopefully someone has one lying around unused. Thanks, Shaun.