pkblade

Wouldn't surprise me if the tool was also driving unregistered.

During lunchtime today Nightcrawler on Nth East Rd turning onto Hanckock Rd.

Have a great time over there Jas & all the best to ya b/f. Also, we'll have to do that cruise when you get back .

I missed that feeling, it's been 9 months since I got my last dose of top fuellers & speaking of which dammn Syd they're getting to enjoy Summernats atm. But, can't wait to see the progress of this moto complex.

Pretty sure the key badge cover & the lock barrel is one unit so, you'll have to swap the whole barrel over into the new one.

Give Import Spares a try, their details are in the sticky wreckers thread above.

Oh ok but I'd still check the wiring connection. The power light coming on is normal as it automatically engages during WOT.

Yeah mate will dropping by to check it out & say hi. haha, it's also an award given to the sheilas.

Rage & Spearhead FTW!MissR34 - have you collected the banner yet? Also, SMS me when you can meet up to get ya shirt.

Does the O/D OFF light on the dash also intermittenly flash on & off? It's mostly likely to be electrical. Remove the shifter surround console & visually check the O/D button & along its wiring for any loose/ damaged connection. Then test it using a 12V test light or a multimeter on the O/D switch wire. Otherwise you may have very low line pressure which can be casued by a number of things but, cleaning the ATF filter may help. If neither of these are the case give Mike from MV Autos a call as he'll be more than happy to help you out.

With some ol'cruising mates...

The fuel pump fuse is located in the rear boot fuse box. The cover should show the following order of fuses from top to boottom: 65A - Main 45A - Blower 30A - 4WD/LSD 30A - IGN SW 15A - FUEL PUMP 20A - HEAD L RH 20A - HEAD L LH 10A - ALT S 10A - TAIL L 20A - HICAS 15A - AUDIO

Did you add the goodies after purchase? if not check if Morpowa still has your tune on file with those mods & have a look at the AFR. Then have Simon or Drew re-tune it. Several mates w/ Skylines & myself have used Morpowa then Boostworx - personally we've found Shaun the better tuner. Even though I'm only 10mins away from Morpowa the cruise down to BW is worth it as iLEC mentioned.

sorry my bad . Yeah noticed it was VQ, was going on info from the > Nihon site. Although, you'd assume there won't be much needed R&D to do the same for the VR.

edit: How's this for starters the GReddy's 350Z at TAS with 4.2L of goodness

Pr0n sweet pics. Did ya take any pics of this beast? Also, which workshops did yous end up going to Martin? Looks like the Volk Racing RE30's

Twas another fun night & here's some more pics. mwahaha! that was the idea. Hopefully next time I'll be able to join yas & we'll try out the G.G if you're game . lol, by the end he had me confused.

^^ Damn that's cheap but, if you can't wait Access Autoworks currently also have ADR approved lines in stock > Clicky to linky. Their prices for a set is still nicely priced as, I paid almost double that group buy price for Maltech ones from performance-wise on the forums & they're very similar.

Something similar has already been done > HERE

All PM's have been replied & is sold pending payment. Cheers Edit: SOLD

Item: FC-Datalogit $370 (delivered) * SOLD * Consists of FC-Box interface, USB serial converter cable & FC-Edit CD (w/ user manual). Condition: As new To Fit: Compatible with all Power-FC & most AP Engineering versions Location: South Aust, pick up is available from the north-east suburbs, also happy to post interstate Contact: PM Comments: Membership to the Datalogit forum is not included, however, you can register for a small fee. For more info > FC-Datalogit Website

I'm down for some pool & the dinner. hehe, you betcha. We have several new concoctions to try out

That would prob be 'abscent', who lives near ya. What were you driving Guy? 4WD??

If your fuel pump is up to the task - 190-200rwkw. btw what year & month is the car?

Well to begin with since I'm incorrect you might, as well as, inform all those who make & engineer these synthetic oils that they're incompetent in what they're doing . I didn’t say it’s cos of the oil that Top Fuelers regularly inspect the engine. Also, don’t know why you’re using Top Fuel dragsters as an example, they use thicker custom blends to suit their engine & application & same goes for diesel trucks as, implied by 'mid life crisis' - apples & oranges. The engines in our jap imports have much smaller clearances than most Aussie or American built pushrods so, a healthy RB engine using a suitable full synthetic is perfectly fine. Unless your engine is showing signs of wear your claim of excessive oil consumption with all synthetics is just codswallop. Also, the problems you’ve mentioned aren’t really an issue for our dailys unless you start dramatically increasing the power &/or regularly go to the drags/ track or just like to hit the rev limiter for fun. In which case, I highly doubt the type of oil you use will miraculously solve the oil flow problems associated with our RB engines when racing. There are other more sure & direct measures to aid this problem (eg. larger sump, adding external return hose, modifying oil feeds & return galleries etc). The test regarding oil clinging to glass don’t mean jack, many full synthetics have been engineered to bond with metal surfaces. Is your engine made of glass?? Also, there are synthetics that have extra additives as well that do similar things Ultra-Lube claims their product can do. I don’t have anything against ULX-110, nor semi-synthetics which I’ve used them in the past (namely Fuchs “Australia’s fastest oil” *awaits for cheque in mail* ) but, was religious in changing it every 5000kms. However, I am sceptical when companies make larg Hp gain claims & it being superior to all synthetics whether full or semi when some of them also consist of similar additive make-ups. Also, care to expand on the statement that all suitable synthetics are notoriously bad for cold starts & especially how so for turbo engines?