_GTR_

$215.46 AUD from RHD Japan. Unsure on the postage cost as I bought multiple items from them at once. http://www.rhdjapan.com/do-luck-enhanced-ignition-harness-kit-nissan-skyline-gt-r.html

Set of 4 Genuine Ray's Volk GTC face 2 wheel's 17x9 inch, Offset +19, PCD 114.3, Manufactured in 2003. In used condition. The rim centres are in good condition and the chrome hoops have slight surface stratches all the way around on all 4 rims. One of the rims has slight gutter rash. Price $2000 Or Nearest Offer. ( Note: Will Deliver to Adelaide for serious buyers only )

I Installed the Do-Luck Ignition Harness Today all went smooth and here are the results. Results: When I started the car up the exhaust tone changed and then I gave it a few revs 3000- 4000 rpm and it wasn’t backfire anymore. Next I took it for a 15min drive up to 7000 rpm and it wasn’t backfiring under boost as it did sometimes. More testing is required to see if it has removed the under 3000 rpm Miss problem and Backfiring under boost problem completely. I will keep everyone posted on further result’s but so far I’m happy with the Result. Note: I have made a "How To" on how to do it. This should be in the DIY section of the forum soon.

How to Install Do-Luck Ignition Harness for R33 GTR. 　 Tools Needed: 4mm Allen Key for Valley Cover Pliers for Blow By Hose's 8mm Socket 10mm Socket 12mm Socket 14mm Socket for Strut Tower Bar Ratchet with short extension Step 1: Once Strut Tower bar is removed, Use a 4mm Allen Key to remove the 8 bolts from the Valley Cover. Then use pliers to move the clip down the hose of the blow by hose. Step 2: Then use a 8mm socket to remove the transistor earth cable, Once that is Done remove the Connector off the transistor unit. Step 3: Remove Valley Cover and Unplug Coil Harness Transistor Connector. Next Remove the 6 Coil Pack Connector. Step 4: Use a 10mm socket with short extension to remove the Coil Pack Harness Earth Cable Step 5: Remove the Intake Side Blow-By Hose and then Unplug Connector. Now you can remove the whole Coil Pack Harness. Old OEM Harness Removed Step 6: Installing the Do-Luck Harness, There are 3 parts to this: The Harness, Earth Cable and Direct Power Feed with Extension Cable. First sit the Do-Luck Harness in place and connect the harness earth cable and the Thick Blue Earth Cable to the same coil harness earth point. ( Behind Coil Pack Number 6 ). 　 　 Next there is a Connector on the end of the Do-Luck Harness this connects near the intake side blow-by hose. Once that is done connect all the coil pack connector’s on. Step 7: Connect the Thick Blue Earth Cable anywhere in the engine bay. I connected mine near the ABS system. Step 8: Connecting the Direct Power Feed with Extension Cable. First Connect the Extension Cable to the end Coil Pack Harness once that is done connect the other end to the direct power feed unit. Step 9 Connect the Direct Battery Feed Unit to the relay box as shown in the photo below and then connect the Direct Battery Feed Unit Earth to either one of theses Earth points shown in the photo below. Now it all Connected Up double check that everything is connected and then reconnect all the transistor plugs and transistor earth point. Then reinstall Valley Cover and Tower Strut Bar. Step 10: Everything is DONE!! Start it up and take it for a spin. Results: When I started the car up the exhaust tone changed and then I gave it a few revs 3000- 4000 rpm and it wasn’t backfire anymore. Next I took it for a 15min drive up to 7000 rpm and it wasn’t backfiring under boost as it did sometimes. More testing is required to see if it has removed the under 3000 rpm Miss problem and Backfiring under boost problem. I will keep everyone posted on further result’s but so far I’m happy with the Result.

Thanks Paul

I'll give it ago tomorrow and thanks for your help Tim

Most of it I know how to wire up there was just afew thing's I wanted to be 100% sure it was the right spot. The only thing now is in the 1st photo the thick blue earth cable does that need to go anywhere in particular or can I put it anywhere in the engine bay as the ground? cause in the picture it looks like it go's anywhere on the passager side of the car.

Just the 2nd Photo if you could please

Hi guys Just wondering if someone could translate these's 2 photo's for me please, It would be a great help. Thanks In Advance

I recently bought a Do-Luck Ignition Harness Kit with Direct Battery Feed for a 1995 R33 GTR, It came with instructions but in japanese. I'm having trouble on where to connect some of the wires. In the photo above, The greenline is what I know should go together but the white lines I'm not sure where to connect them to. Above is the Direct Battery Feed Cables I think I need to connect these's cables from the fusebox back to the coil pack earth point but not sure? Note the cables are only about 1m long. Any help would be greatly appreciated

So with camber arms do I need ikeya formula negative type arms to fix the negative camber or postive type?

I'm using Achilles ATR Sport tyres 265/35 r18 on Work XD9 rims 18x10's , The car had been lowered before I bought it with all aftermarket suspension front and back with all aftermarket control arms at the rear. When I got it, the owner returned the front suspension back to stock. Now the car sits high at the front and low at the back. This is just a street car.

I got new wheels put on my 1995 R33 GTR V-spec the other day and the wheel alignment results said that the car needs a front camber and caster kit put on. I have looked on different websites for Ikeya Formula front upper camber arms and there are two different types postive and negative I'm guessing I need the negative type but not sure? http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bccatpartlist2.php?make=Nissan&carcode=R33C&intake=FI&category=suspension&subcat=Rods and Control Arms&sortby= http://www.rhdjapan.com/ikeya-formula-front-upper-link-set-nissan.html For caster adjustment do I only need tension rods.?? http://www.rhdjapan.com/ikeya-formula-strengthened-bush-tension-rods-4wd-nissan.html

Just wondering if anyone has used the Splitfire D Spark Max Ignition Coil Booster. http://www.nengun.com/splitfire/d-spark-max And if it's worth getting. Does it replace to Power Transistor Ignition Unit on the top of the coil pack cover?

My 1995 R33 Gtr sometime's has a missfire for a split second and then it's fine again, It mainly happens at 2500 - 3000 RPM just before boost kicks in. I took it to a workshop and they said change the coilpacks and spark plugs so I did to Splitfire's and to Copper spark plugs but it still happens they also check for boost leaks and they found nothing wrong. I have checked the earth cable's they are fine too. At 2500 - 2800 ign timing sit's around 38 degs. Any Suggestions on what could be causing this? Fuel Type: 100 oct Boost Pressure: 7 Psi Turbos: Garrett 2860's smallest in that serie Spark plug Gap: 0.8 Spark plug type: Copper ECU: Apexi Power FC Max Knock Reading: 109 only happened twice, But normaly is around 3 to 10 Battery Volts: 14.2 Max ign timing reading: 42 deg

Hi Just wondering if someone could please translate what's in the red square's for me. Thanks in advance.

Could I get this one done please. 6U900BCNR33007703

I just connected it and everything works fine with no errors, I just need to have a play with it to get real time stats. It only shows the highest reading it hit e.g. rpm it was at idle 1100 rpm i rev it to 4000 and on the hand controller it just stayed at that, even when the car was back at idle for over a 30 sec.

I just bought a Apexi Power FC hand controller and just had a question, Can i just plug it into the ecu and everything will work or do I need to disconnect the battery then connect it?

I just got ATTKD 324mm front brake rotors fitted and everytime I brake there is a loud squeek, It still happens even when there warm. I'm using Bendix Ultimate Pads about 90% left on them with stock brembo calipers. Just wondering if they need to wear in and the squeek will stop or if it's somthing more serious.