_GTR_

Nismo center gauge: Sold

boost controller & coil packs: sold

Tomei cam gears: Sold

I prefer Paypal as it is much quicker. Paying into my bank account will take possibly a few days to come through.

Tomei cam gears are sold "pending payment".

Parts Forsale: x6 SplitFire Coil Packs SF-DIS-001 Price: $400.00 (In good Condition) Apexi Power FC ECU from my R33 GTR with Near New Hand Controller - Price: $650.00 (ECU cover has some scratches but ECU and hand controller are in good working order) Brand New In Box - Tomei Adjustable Cam Gears to suit RB26 Intake & Exhaust - Price: $300.00 Nismo Center Gauge to suit R33 GTR - Price $ 220.00 (Near New Condition) Apexi Air Filters & Z32 Airflow Meters - Price $ 250.00 ( Z32 Airflow meters were bought from kudos motorsports & have only been used for about 4000 km - Still in good working order) Greddy Profec B Electronic Boost Controller - Price $ 320.00 (In working order & was only used on the car for about 6000 km) x6 Aftermarket Injectors Unknown Brand - Price: 500.00 ( I bought these injectors from Willall Racing, The injectors were off their ex drag car. One person said they were 700cc and the other person said they are 1000cc injectors. Used them for about 5000 km on E85 pushing 314awkw with no problems. All Prices include postage to you. Pm me if you are interested. P.S If you do not like the prices then don't even bother messaging me. !!!!!!

Cam Gears Sold!

Turbos sold

Here are some up close photos of the turbo ID plates.

Forsale: Garrett 2860-5 turbos only done 20,000kms (In Good Condition) $1300 firm includes postage anywhere in Australia Tomei Cam Gears Intake & Exhaust (In Good Condition) $250 firm includes postage anywhere in Australia PM me if interested. please no time wasters or low ballers Location: SA

Hi Everyone I just need some help with diagnosing a problem with my r33 gtr. I was doing a oil change and when I was filling it back up with oil there was white milking froth on the funnel so I did a dry compression test and found that No2 cylinder was at 110 psi and No3 was 130 psi, after I then did a wet comp test and it when back to 150 psi like the rest of the cylinders. On the dry test no2 cylinder didn't leak at all and stayed a 110psi for minutes. Test was done at 5 engine cranks only. I repeated a dry compression test at 10 engine cranks and got 150 psi on No2 and 3 cylinder with 160 psi on the all the other cylinders. Note the car has always had little white smoke on start up but not enough to worry me. I also found that 20mm of coolant is gone from the reservoir overflow for the coolant and I only fill it up 1 week ago. Just trying to figure out if it's piston rings or head gasket All help would be greatly appreciated

Wanted: Z32 AFM to 3 inch air filter adaptor (x2).

I did a diagnostic test on my A/C and the only error I got was the inside temp sensor at -30C. So I'm planning to do the 2k resistor trick but I'm unsure which sensor needs the resistor, Is it replacing the resistor in the inside temp sensor itself or placing a resistor on the sunload sensor?

That test was done cold. I didn't worry about doing a wet test as the compression came back good.

Just finished to compression test: 1: 150 2: 150 3: 150 4: 150 5: 150 6: 145 Thanks for your help guy's

Hi Everyone Just wondering the correct way to do a compression test on a rb26 engine. Can I just pull the fuel pump fuse out of the car before I start the test, or do you need to start the car then pull the fuse and let the car died out and then start the test? Also for a wet compression test how much oil do you put in the cylinder? Do you remove all the spark plugs or just remove the one from the cylinder your testing and leave the rest in?

My R33 GTR sometimes knocks 105 - 107 on cold startup's, Just a split second before the car starts. It also has a rough startup for 3-5sec when this high knock level occurs. Is this bad knock sensors or something worse? Note: When driving I only get knock levels of 1 - 15 Max ign timing: 44deg Fuel e85 Brand new copper core spark plugs

1995 R33 GTR Stock Internals Apexi Pods Apexi Exhaust Greddy Profec Splitfire Coils Power FC Ecu Garrett -5's 15psi on 98 made 230awkw with 400Nm Now running E85 with bigger injectors / fuel pump and Tomei cam gears Made: 312awkw with 772Nm on 18psi

Hi Everyone Today I was driving "The Princess" (R33 Gtr) and 20km's into my trip there was light white smoke coming from under the gear shift plastic. I though it was my wiring that I had just finished it scared the fk out of me. When I got home it turned out that my gear shift boot was split. My Question is the gear shift boot meant to be in 2 pieces with the insulator plate in the middle or 1 piece with the insulator plate in the middle. Source 1: Source 2: In Car: Note when I was taking it apart there was no cable tie's holding it on to the shifter like the picture in Source 2.

Thanks for your reply. At the moment most of the lines are plumbed in, Now left to do is drill and tap holes in the twin turbo hot pipe, The Greddy manual say's for two holes e.g. one for each turbo but could I get away with just the one barb fitting at the end of the twin turbo hot pipe?

Hi Everyone I'm just wondering what people reckon on this install plan for a R33 Gtr with Greddy Profec Electronic Boost Controller. I plan to run a new line that goes from one turbo actuator to the other and tee into that line. This will go to the boost solenoid. Next I will put a barb fitting on the intercooler pipe as close as i can to the turbo's, This will go to the boost solenoid. Next I will Tee into the factory boost gauge line that will supply the Senser Unit with boost and vacuum. I will block or completely remove the stock lines that supply the stock boost solenoid. Also my question is if i unplug the factory boost solenoid will it cause any issues with my tune or throw a ecu code if so how would I fix it. For the wiring I plan to connect it upto the cigarette lighter light. Below is how I think it should look in the engine bay?

So for the sensor unit signal to supply the control unit can I tee into the factory boost line that supply the gauges inside the car. And then in my drawing above not tee into the boost source line which go's from the solenoid to the plenum?

I recent bought a Greddy Profec Boost Controller and was getting confussed on how to set it up because greddy instructions say to go off the fuel pressure regulator for a signal for the sensor unit. But reading different threads and watching Mighty Car Mods it seems to be a bad practice as you don't want to wreck this signal. Below I have added my setup which im thinking of doing to my r33 gtr, Just wondering if it would work? Greddy Setup Thanks for your input and thanks Fat32gtr and everyone that has put input into this thread so far.

Hi Everyone I'm trying to get a rear transfer case oil seal for a 1995 Nissan Skyline R33 GTR. Oil Lip Seal: Make: NOK part number: BE4098E Measurements: Oustside diameter: 69mm Inside Diameter: 42mm Width: 15mm Nissan Australia and CBC Seals and Bearings cant get this oil seal can anyone help?

Took the car out for more testing 70km trip and the backfire problem under boost is gone. The Under 3000rpm miss is still there but not as often. My Setup: Copper Core Spark Plugs 0.8 gap Splitfire Coil Packs Do-Luck Coil Harness