Search the Community

Chasing a Apexi Boost control Kit to suit power fc for a r34 gtt Not paying drug money for used parts. If it's new I will pay more. Must be able to post Cheers 0419-856-391

I've had this problem twice now and it's happened both times on long drives. I boost it then it stops suddenly and sits on less than what psi I'm running very weird, I shut off car then turn ion again then get going then it boost properly what causes something like that? Boost leak maybe? Need some answers

As per title: Selling up my Defi BF Setup. Consisting of the following. Defi Control Unit II & Wiring Defi BF White 60mm Boost Guage, Sensor, Cup & Wiring. Defi BF White 60mm Water Temp Guage, Sensor, Cup & Wiring. Defi BF White 60mm Oil Temp Guage, Sensor, Cup & Wiring. Defi BF White 60mm Oil Press Guage, Sensor, Cup & Wiring. Water Temp Hose Adaptor Oil Temp & Press Sandwich Plate Adaptor Condition: Immaculate Location: Sydney NSW Price: $1100 Express Posted Contact: PM Pics:

Hi everyone. So my r34 gtt has had a gt3076 56trim with a .63 internal housing for some time now. I never can flog it due to the horrible boost creep. not to mention the kinda shit power from that turbo at that psi. So to fix the issue i got a .82 housing with a ported 37mm internal gate. Drove it today and it still creeps to about 1.3bar. but holds there where before it would keep going until it started to lean out (fart, crack ect.) this turbo is from gcg and the housing, i use a apexi avc-r controller, standard manifold (mild port), split dump from gcg, 3inch front pipe (i Think) to apexi hi silent back exhaust, no cat. So basically can someone explain or possibly rectify this issue (which seems to be common). if they are selling these things for rb25 they must have some form of boost control. I'm to far gone for a external gate as it defeats my original intention. thanks

Hi Everyone I'm just wondering what people reckon on this install plan for a R33 Gtr with Greddy Profec Electronic Boost Controller. I plan to run a new line that goes from one turbo actuator to the other and tee into that line. This will go to the boost solenoid. Next I will put a barb fitting on the intercooler pipe as close as i can to the turbo's, This will go to the boost solenoid. Next I will Tee into the factory boost gauge line that will supply the Senser Unit with boost and vacuum. I will block or completely remove the stock lines that supply the stock boost solenoid. Also my question is if i unplug the factory boost solenoid will it cause any issues with my tune or throw a ecu code if so how would I fix it. For the wiring I plan to connect it upto the cigarette lighter light. Below is how I think it should look in the engine bay?

Hello, So ive just brought my very first turbo car (R33 Gtst), im learning fast but I still need some help. so ive brought a dual stage boost-T ive hooked it up and car seems to run sweet, cant really test it till I get a boost gauge tomorrow tho. Now I know this question has been asked LOTS, but trust me ive posted on forums, and searched internet for ages but got nothing, so why not ask the experts? Now my question is: Is this hooked up correctly?

So when i bought my R32 GTS-T the guy told me he was only running stock boost, i had alot of questions for him and it slipped my mind to ask him how much stock boost is on the car.. Would anyone know? I've tryd to google it but it only comes up with GTR's. And how much boost is safe to run on a stock RB20DET engine? Is there any chance of me being able to wind it up abit with minimal supporting mods? Not talking 18 or anything.. But maybe 8-10? Thanks for once again putting up with one of my stupid threads. I'm getting there i swear!

Hi guys, I just bought myself an R34 GTT in manual and I am trying to figure out when / what stages the boost comes on. I am new to driving manual skylines having just upgraded from an auto R33 GTST. Now, in the R33, you plant your foot down and boost comes on quick and it 'plants' you into the seat with how much get up and go it has. Similarly with just driving around, you want to overtake someone, plant your foot down, the auto transmission seems to downshift and the boost comes and quick and hard. Now driving my new 34 GTT, not alot of boost builds in first gear (if any) which is fine - i don't expect the manuals to take off like an auto (especially with me still learning the gear box). But now in second gear, I plant my foot down, I see the stock boost gauge come to life, but the boost still seems quite linear and it doesn't have that 'forces you into the seat' type of feeling..it sort of builds up slowly.. Hard to explain, but I am hoping someone can just enlighten me with the manual R34. Both cars are stock, with the exception that the R33 has a custom 3 inch exhaust, while the R34 is still stock. What RPM's and in what gear, should I be expecting the boost to come on hard? Thanks guys! dex

Have read many topics on grenading ceramic turbos when pushed above 1 bar etc. Wanting to prolong the life of mine, was curious as to how cautious I should be with my standard boost gauge reading vs dyno reading. My r34 is running stock boost (without the restrictor) Dyno chart shows a peak of around 14.5 (1bar) dropping to 13.5 at redline. But my boost display reads quite high between (1.10 & 1.17 bar or maxing about 16.5-17psi) when i give it a bit of a hit. Would I be better going with the dyno readings as a safe measurement as I'm sure the boost gauge display is less accurate? I know the ideal win is going an EBC or boost control kit with the Power FC but want SAU opinions.

Hey guys, have a question for ya's as I'm a little stumped Over the weekend my mate and I installed coilpacks (which fixed boost cutting out), cat back exhaust, turbo timer and boost controller (haven't hooked it up to my custom gauge to read boost yet) Under low boost, great to hear the typical turbo sounds. Under high boost, in 3rd gear, on a long stretch I thought I'd seehow she goes. Got to 150 and the car turns off.. Electricals were functional (A/C, H/U, gauges, hazard lights) but engine turned off, no steering etc etc.. I know there is speed cut and boost cut but I don't think they react the was that it did in mine earlier this afternoon. Any thoughts? mods carried out: boost controller turbo timer cat back exhaust pod filter coil packs coil overs My guess is boost was set too high and drew too much making car shut off. I have dialed it back and now using low boost until problem is resolved (and get gauge to read again) Hope that's of some help. Any other questions I'm happy to answer the best I can!

Hi all, having a bit of trouble setting up the haltech boost solenoid on a friends BNR32 w/ Haltech PnP ecu. I have wired the BCS to the OEM wiring, 12V wired to black/red & DPO wired to yellow/blue. Pressure hose is coming from the last fitting under the intake manifold, plumbed into port #1. port #2 is going to both waste gate actuators, the hose has a T fitting inline which goes to each actuator. port #3 is VTA. after everything was setup I enabled closed loop boost control in the ecu, then I setup the target table & set PID to 0 while I dial in the duty cycle. no matter what percentage I put in, the engine will not go over 6psi. anyone have experience setting up a Haltech or MAC boost valve? is the plumbing correct? any help is greatly appreciated!

NEW, never used, genuine (not fake copy) Garrett GT3076R FOR SALE! Features: - Rated to support from 310HP to 525HP MAX - Roller Ball Bearing - .63 Exhaust Housing - T3 Flange - Removable Rear V-Band Flange *I do not have gaskets! These are easy to acquire from any exhaust shop. *Turbo will come with a T4 Flange adaptor plate & screws... if wanted! RRP: $1,600+ SAU PRICE: $1,500 or Make An Offer I am happy to post anywhere at Buyers Expense!

For Sale. Pick up only Hurstville/ Sydney. 1) Alpine IVA-D106E Single Din 7" Touch Screen DVD Head Unit More details here http://www.alpine.com.au/showItem.php?item_id=50 Used. Took it out of my car few weeks ago. Everything works no issues. $200 2) Innovate Motorsports ECB-1: (BOOST) Ethanol Advanced Gauge Complete Kit (P/N: 3906). 52mm gauge, shows boost, AFR, Eflex content and fuel temp. More details here http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/ecb1.php Brand new still in box and plastic bags. Bought it last month but went with another gauge setup. Already looking at a refund but just wanna see if anyone else wants it. $600 (Everywhere quoted it for at least $700+ shipped)

Brand new Universal Turbosmart Boost Tee - Blue Unused - Still in box. Selling as I'm going for Electronic Boost Controller. Located in Townsville, QLD. $90. Payed $100

For Sells to suit RB25 Garrett 30/40 .63 - Recently Rebuilt by GCG High Mount mild steel manifold 50mm turbosmart waste gate with screamer Intake and exhaust gaskets Cut dump Adjustable Cam Gears Want to sell as a package $1500ono Canberra

Selling my profec B gen 1 boost controller (the type everyone likes) Came out of a car I no longer have and I'm not going to use it Chasing $200 ono inc free freight anywhere in Aus. Contact me on 0419856391

Brand new - This ignition system will allow you to run much higher spark plug gaps under high boost without spark blowout. This will give more power due to a cleaner burn and give a much better idle and low down power. Includes harness for S13/S14 for straight plug and play and universal harness for other cars. Part Number: 43001-AK001 Location: Sydney East, Postage available Price: $500 Preferred Contact: PM or Reply here Reason for Sale: Sold car before got chance to install. The HKS Twin Power ignition amplifier incorporates both the CDI and transistor method ignition to provide optimum spark duration and maximum voltage output, resulting in crisper throttle response and a smoother engine power band. The CDI method, capacity discharge ignition, provides maximum voltage by transferring all stored energy in the capacitor to the ignition coil so that the ignition current can build-up quickly, thus making the Twin Power very effective in the higher revs where a normal spark would tend to diminish. This strong rapid spark prevents the high rpm ignition miss that reduces peak power. The transistorized method generates high voltage by using transistors to cut off current to the coil, thus allowing for a long energy discharge. This longer spark duration allows the Twin Power to improve lower RPM throttle response and torque. The combination of the CDI and the transistor method incorporates two distinct systems into one high performance unit, hence the designation of Twin Power. Expect a spark output that is typically 1.5-2.5 stronger than that of the stock ignition system! Each compact and attractive Twin power unit is constructed of durable anodized aluminium and sealed to prevent corrosion from moisture.

Accidentally bought two, so now I'm selling it. Details all over the internet but here are two links: http://www.greddy.com/products/electronics/profec/ http://www.nengun.com/greddy/profec-oled-worlds-best-price (mine is cheaper!) Pick up from Melbourne after Melbourne Cup day, or I can post interstate. $400