Tosh

I'd go but the line up is too long... Deep Blu @ Watershed goes off too

that's just for the timing belt only Thomas

lol! no i'm not into chicks! i just mentioned it cause i figured you guys would ask spotted a few skys tonight!!!! nicks 4 door 32.. what tha!!!! lol!!! i wasn't expecting a 4 door! looks schmick! and a sexy look silver ford.. (pft! still not as sexy as WHPLSH ) and a red beemer! also owned some rotor thing? i think? BUZDUP i think the plates were.. hahahhaa.. he thought he had a easy win.. i think not!! and spotted DHC... grrr!!! you didn't WIN THAT ONE!!!!!!!!!! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> WHAT ABOUT ME?!?!?!?!?!?!?

You would. Nathan uses them all the time

yes $135 is way too expensive...

an N1 Water pump is around $350

Mine had 156,000 when I sold it STD Nissan Timing Belt's fine unless your pushing some rediculous amount of HP. Gates are good for strength but the blue coating comes off them very quickly. Bit annoying when that's one of the reasons you buy it and show it off..

Fujitsubo exhausts are nice and quiet down low and sound unreal when you open them up. Basically money doesn't lie. You get what you pay for.

Honda also made the Beat which was an MR

hrmmm don't know anyone up that way. Rated R Designs in Sydney do very good car graphics. Maybe he can send you the graphics he makes for you to put on. 02 9819 6888

Also an engine doesn't have to be blown up to need a re-build. If it's had a hard life but has been serviced and looked after properly then the compression test should look like this one. If something happened like a cracked ringland or dropped valve, then 1 (or more) of the cylinders would read lower than the rest for sure.

I wouldn't say that an engine down on compression by over 30% is a good engine. Sure the gauge may be reading low and it wouldn't be a bad idea to get a test done somewhere else, however if this is the true compression of the engine then it needs a refresh.

not unless your mechanic has a consult...very unlikely

where are you located?

take it to Nissan and get it checked on the Consult

Sure it's nice and even but below minimum reccomended. Safe compression is anything between 135 ~ 180psi (as per the Nissan Japan Service Manual) Your engine is tired.... it's had a hard life and needs a refesh. Re-coondition the block & head, new bearings and piston rings and you should be fine... budget for new pistons just in case but I suspect you may get away without them. However if you plan on putting horsepower into this engine then I suggest you put forged pistons in. Tomei make very nice 0.5mm (20 thou if you speak to any Australian engine builder) overbore pistons for the RB25. CP Pistons are an alternative if your busget isnt that high. Also don't forget to put a 1.2mm Head Gakset in if you're goin to run higher boost.

IMHO Matte Black should be saved for circuit/drift cars. Also it only really suits certain chapes. The R34/R33??? NO WAY, R32/180SX??? HELL YES!!! The R32 with the Work Emotions and the QLD 180SX look very tough in Matte. I'd never have a road car in Matte Black but I would certinaly have a circuit ONLY car in Matte Black. Go Gloss for the road.

a few things to clarify NISMO DO NOT MAKE an N1 Block NISSAN make the N1 block. It has a higher Nickel content than the Standard RB26 Block and is stronger. NISMO just realeased their GT Block this year to co-incide(spelling??) with the release of the R34 GTR Z tune. It is the same block used in the GT500 Race Cars. Gav, increasing the bore size helps you increase the displacement in the engine. Hence why the HKS 2.8L Kit uses 87mm Pistons. Retaining the original bore size or only going to 86.5mm pistons aids in developing fantastic engine response (not something that is overly focused on in drag setups). Also going to an 87mm bore rasies concerns about the overall strength of the block. It's fine if you run a drag car that gets re-built often but for a street car that need to last, it's an unnecessary risk IMHO.

or ring them again and get them to give you a breakdown. They'll tell you what each fee is and you can add it up to make sure it's right

Drive down the straight of Eastern Creek one day and you'll change your mind Even Wakefield Park if you have the balls Turn 1 at 215k/hr is rather thrilling.

Not to my knowledge Adam I doubt it

:lol: :lol: Control yourself MAN!!!!!!

R34 GTR Base Model R34 GTR V-Spec Carbon Rear Diffuser Front Diffuser (which adds tot he front lip) Different Tachometer (the scale is smaller upto 3000rpm) Upgraded MFD to show inlet and exhaust temperature Active Rear Differential (Base model is still mechanical) Revised ATESSA System R34 GTR V-Spec II Everything the V Spec has Carbon Bonnet with inlet scoop Black Interior as opposed to grey Slightly larger rear brakes they're the MAIN differences anyway R34 GTR V-spec N1 N1 Engine including different block different pistons different oil and water pump different exhaust manifolds different turbo's etc... No air con No stereo No Rear Windscreen wiper. etc... An R34 GTR ready for serious racing R34 GTR V Spec II Nür-Spec Basically an R34 GTR V Spec 2 with all N1 upgrades. R34 GTR M-Spec Leather Interior Heated Seats Heated Mirrors Soft tuned suspension A Luxury model R34 GTR V-Spec R34 GTR M-Spec Nür Basically an R34 GTR M Spec with all N1 upgrades. R34 GTR Z-Tune NOT a NISSAN factory car. Built by Nismo All out ball tearer That's the best I can come up with at this hour of the morning

$590 for an N1 Oil Pump from Nissan

to drive around daily I would prefer a non V Spec as they are more comforatable on our roads. However the V Spec does have the Carbon Rear Diffuser, the Front Diffuser (which adds to the front lip), the extra read outs on the MFD (exhaust temp and inlet temp) and the harder tuned suspension for more spirited driving amongst other things.