SLY33

just some things to consider: single plates can be on/off and bitey OR user friendly. twin plates can be on/off and bitey OR user friendly. many factors effect how the clutch bites, but mainly puck/plate material (organic, brass, ceramic) and type of plate (sprung or solid/unsprung centres). So you can see how a single plate unsprung brass button clutch could be a biatch compared to a twin plate sprung centre, an how a twin plate unsprung clutch would be less user friendly than a single organic or a ceramic one. Theres also the pressure plate to consider. In my opinion in a RWD car a good single plate will be sufficient in 90% of applications. The other 10% may include really big power and sticky tyres. Advantages are a single plate will be cheaper to rebuild, plus theres no reason why it shouldnt be streetable and relatively easy to use. (ahh but you are 4wd, def use a good twin plate!) NB the UAS 300zx ran 10's with drag radials and a $600 single plate clutch!

if your saying GTRS is too small for a 1.8 litre, how is it going to be more suited to 2litre? GTRS is an awesome turbo even for an RB25, capable of 250rwkw at only 1bar, with loads of average power.

lifter noise generally isnt a problem, just get your valve clearances checked/adjusted. dont go throwing diesel oil in there.

cameron, there is not an issue of the turbo "having to fill the intercooler". Once it is pressurised the engine still swallows the same amount of air. The car wont run any smoother than it did before. Why would it? Scott, generally as you decrease resistance to flow in a turbo system, the boost will run a bit higher. Ideally you need to get it on the dyno and set the boost level whilst monitoring the air/fuel ratios to ensure everything is safe.

desert eagle, good pick, haha. you gotta have rice

Raging demon, the hose is on the compressor side, and doesnt get as hot as the exhaust side, hence the tube wont melt. the GTRS was making 250rwkw at 1bar, dyno sheet should be in the DYNO RESULTS thread?

i tossed up between the GT-RS and 2835proS and ended up going the 2835ProS While they are rated only 20ps apart, (GTRS 400ps vs 2835Pro 420ps) When you see the two turbos side by side, the GTRS is notably smaller everywhere! This is probably in part due to new technology, but from the looks of them the GTRS might not go as well once you start flowing big amounts of air up the top of the rev range? So far ive only seen GTRS results up to 1bar on a RB25, anyone got results at 1.2bar? heres my 2835ProS next to a little CT12!:

you specify: up to 6000rpm, 17psi, good boost response, USABLE power. Just have a look at my HKS2530 results in the DYNO RESULTS thread. This turbo sounds perfect for what your after, plus you wont have to do injectors or manifold. Most importantly the turbo couldnt be more "useable"! Boost is always there when you want it, and its extremely happy at 1.2bar. All that with low 12second potential, for your specific needs i think youd be pretty happy. The midrange torque increase of this turbo over standard is awesome. Alternatively a highflow for a similar result.

you specify: up to 6000rpm, 17psi, good boost response, USABLE power. Just have a look at my HKS2530 results in the DYNO RESULTS thread. This turbo sounds perfect for what your after, plus you wont have to do injectors or manifold. Most importantly the turbo couldnt be more "useable"! Boost is always there when you want it, and its extremely happy at 1.2bar. All that with low 12second potential, for your specific needs i think youd be pretty happy. Alternatively a highflow for a similar result.

you specify: up to 6000rpm, 17psi, good boost response, USABLE power. Just have a look at my HKS2530 results in the DYNO RESULTS thread. This turbo sounds perfect for what your after, plus you wont have to do injectors or manifold. Most importantly the turbo couldnt be more "useable"! Boost is always there when you want it, and its extremely happy at 1.2bar.

There are a tonne of posts about high flows, do a search, and if you still need more specific info it would be best to call GCG turbos yourself to get exact specs.

If they are HKS, they would likely have HKS stamped or marked somewhere on them (as nothing HKS leaves unmarked!). If they are garret they will be plain. My 2530 was second hand also and came with no actuator. I bought a garret one, and was told that its the exact same unit as the HKS one minus the HKS name on it. regardless of brand, unless they are factory GTR actuators, they should be rated higher than stock. If you really wanted to you could test them if you have an air compressor, some boost signal or rubber hose, a couple of fittings, and a boost/pressure guage. Plumb it up correctly and progressivly squeeze the air gun trigger till the actuator rod extends, note the pressure on the guage at this point. Alternatively just stick em on the car and find out.

fane, the cracked flaked off paint isnt the issue (as the paint came off of most of mine when i pulled them out! Zahos has the spot. Slide, Its a Dodge Turbo Interceptor!

Zahos, thats exactly where my crack was. Robo, The cracks are tiny and you might over look them. Whereever they are, once you correctly insulate them, you problem should be gone. lol at roy!

the best thing about this turbo is that its efficient at high boost levels, which means that once you get everything setup and run some decent boost, it should hold right through the top of the range, giving you awesome top end. Typically a lag monster, with a good tune you can retain 9:1 compression, add some cams for the midrange, run some healthy boost and youll be loving it.

HKS GT2530 Power FC 1.2bar (dropping to just under a bar at top end) BP Ultimate 98 Straight thru cat pipe used for this run, and is the highest figure ive made with this turbo.

These turbos arent rated at stock boost. From the HKS japan site, the HKS GT2530, 2535 and 2540 are rated at 1bar, and the GT2835ProS is rated at 1.2bar. in regards to grepin running 1.6bar boost and toluene, wasnt that just during early runs? i thought he had a boost leak and got it sorted, ending up with somewher round 270rwkw at 1.3bar with no toluene? trust33, im not sure why garret and hks equivalents arent the same, but im sure its been covered somewhere else.

i dont think they are rated at stock boost. i thought HKS's were rated at 1 bar, which may be true for some of them, but say for the 2835pro, it comes with a 1.2bar actuator, so i guess it'd be rated at 1.2bar.

in regards to grepin running 1.6bar boost and toluene, wasnt that just during early runs? i thought he had a boost leak and got it sorted, ending up with somewher round 280rwkw at 1.2bar with no toluene? trust33, im not sure why garret and hks equivalents arent the same, but im sure its been covered somewhere else.

in regards to grepin running 1.6bar boost and toluene, wasnt that just during early runs? i thought he had a boost leak and got it sorted, ending up with somewher round 280rwkw at 1.2bar with no toluene?

inasnt read properly. i said internal gate, and i said for example. UAS have set up many internal gate Garret GT3040's on RB25's for 250rwkw. Of course an external gate GT30 will shit on an int gate HKS 2535, and pull 300rwkw.

inasnt read properly. i said internal gate, and i said for example. UAS have set up many internal gate Garret GT3040's on RB25's for 250rwkw. Of course an external gate GT30 will shit on an int gate HKS 2535.

fane, it could possibly be your AFM, although if it happens at just 12psi its a bit more unlikely.. obviously you dont have an FC or you could easily check if it was the afm. id still give the coils an inspection, its not real hard, if you can change plugs you can do it. So you need to find a crack before you go taping them up! i dont have the pictures of my coils anymore... if i can remember, at the front (or back, depending on which coil) above where the rubber boot ends there are some raised numbers, its around here that you may find a tiny vertical hairline crack, mine was so small i had to put it under very good light to see it, and even then i wasnt sure if it was actually cracked, but i ran a couple layers of tape around the coilpack body, covering the crack, and straight away it ran perfectly. The one that went was the one closest to the firewall, and the one i checked last! so you may want to start from the back one! I have heard of people finding cracks in nearly all there coils, so have a careful look with a magnifying glass.

trust33, bear in mind that Garret GT25 series are not the same as HKS GT25 series. for example to duplicate the ~250rwkw from a HKS GT2535 int gate youd need a Garret GT3040 int gate.

trust33, bear in mind that Garret GT25 series are not the same as HKS GT25 series. to duplicate the 250rwkw from a HKS GT2535 int gate youd need a Garret GT3040 int gate.