SLY33

ive run a 12.5 with my 2530. I once said i thought this turbo was too small for a rb25 as it doesnt hold boost at the top end, but after some some observations of the boost guage it seems boost only drops off after 6500, so its not really an issue, just affects your peak power figure. i dunno how itd go with stock ecu, as long as you check your AFR's on a dyno you should be fine. Ill be selling mine early next year complete bolt on with all lines and pipes inc HKS stainless dump, for when the 2835pro goes on, but even now its a street weapon with great drivability.

im running allow cradle bushes. i dont notice it any more noisy or uncomfortable than before...

id go and say that 17s are the best for performance on a 33. firstly because the weight will be more with larger diameter and also the rolling diameter is usually increased a little bit, even tho its supposed to be accomodated for by running lower profile. The geometry of the suspension was designed to run 16's, and since going from 17's to 19's you realise the car becomes less chuckable and takes on a very different feel, i think mostly coz of the rubber band profile. You have less warning of when its gonna let go. Thats from my experience, running similar spec street tyres on both the 17 and 19's. Any increase in rolling diameter will also affect braking, probably not by much, but the effect is there. But then from an aesthetic point of view, the 18's might be the best in terms of looks and performance, as 17's look small with a big kit, especially if the cars not dumped!

do p1's come in 18s? i know the p1 racing II's do, but i dont think P1s do. i just bought some p1 17s, should be able to tell you exactly the weight, soon.

oh yeah got mixed up, was thinking of type-r integra..

GTR twin throttle body? GTRs have 6 throttle bodies, 1 per cylinder yeah? Maybe you mean Twin AFM setup? Given the potential of the RB25DET id say theres no point but i guess anything can be done.

i think maybe some terms maybe used out of place here. Plug fouling seems to be refferred to as a reason to pull out plugs and clean or replace them in some of the above posts. If plugs get fouled due to extremely rich conditions, then yes they do cause missing and splutterring, and if you pull out the plug its all black and furry. But you dont need to pull them out!? In my experience if you give the car a good hard blast it "clears its throat" so to speak, and then it will run fine until they get fouled again. Im thinking more that if your fuel injected skyline is running so rich that its constantly fouling the plugs, changing or cleaning the plugs isnt the solution! unless your running the wrong temp range or something. Plug fouling is what youd hear more about on oldschool oversized Holley carburetted motors!

ive seen type-r preludes with fully built motors, head work, cams etc, and only make 100fwkw. What did you do to yours?! Unless yours is the 1980's angular shaped one i remember seeing in a mag that had a motor that could rev to 10,000rpm or so the owner claimed...

btw i dont consider R33's the whales that a lot of people do, especially when you look at the 1700kg-plus weight of a lot of new performance cars coming out. A soarer however might be considered a whale, but are still damn quick once on the move.

Thats it richard. Pulsar GTiR SR20-DET 1998cc I4 turbo 172kW 284Nm 1220kg 0-100 5.89sec Skyline GTS25t (R33) RB25-DET 2498cc I6 turbo 184kW 274Nm 1370kg 0-100 6.21sec ok so in standard form pulsar has tad less more power, more torque, and over 100kg less weight. Its easy to see that they are going to be faster when comparing stock cars.. Not that i really care, i would like to hear a bit more about this NA prelude that keeps up with GTI-R's!

Pulsar GTiR SR20-DET 1998cc I4 turbo 172kW 284Nm 1220kg 5.89 Skyline GTS25t (R33) RB25-DET 2498cc I6 turbo 184kW 274Nm 1370kg 6.21 ok so in standard form pulsar has tad less more power, more torque, and over 100kg less weight. Its easy to see that they are going to be faster when comparing stock cars.. Not that i really care, i would like to hear a bit more about this NA prelude that keeps up with GTI-R's!

Anyone know of, heard of, or had any experiences with Yoshi the BD4s tuner? As they are in Gladesville which is pretty close to me. Been down there, workshop looks good, organised and clean.

aybee stick to your price bro, i know these are hard to find and its not a lot of money for a quality computer. If people disagree let them go try and find another one!

I think i read somewhere that "PONCAM" literally means "bolt-on" -ie you can install them without having to machine or modify/replace anything else... correct me if thats wrong! i think i read it in an HPI mag...

I went to GCG today and spoke with Colin (the head guy there?) He told me that their high flow units offer the same response as the standard turbo. He said something about as they upgrade both comp and exh sides of the turbo proportionally that response is the same. (or something along those lines, cant recall exactly) But in my mind i didnt think this was possible, to get the turbo making more power, surely something has to be sacrificed in the response?? Then he handed me a ceramic turbine, and it was real light. He then took it back and handed me a steel wheel turbine, and fu(k it was heavy in comparison!! This made me think even more that this thing is definitly gonna take longer to spool up! Any thoughts on this response issue? Also GCG are adamant that their units will see 440HP at the engine. Doesnt this mean that the little standard highflow will produce more power than a relatively large HKS 2835ProS rated at only 420PS?? im a bit confused and really need to go for a ride in a GCG highflowed R33! My HKS2530 equipped car only has 220rwkw, yet running at WSID against a Garret equipped R33 with 260rwkw, we were literally neck and neck the entire strip! Both cars were dynoed in shootout mode on DD dynos, can someone explain how i stayed with him?! reason im interested is that i want more power and considering a highflow for 250rwkw, but if im even with a 260rwkw car that may have less reponse, i may actually go slower with the GCG 250rwkw turbo?!!?! With the current 2530 setup ive run a best of 12.5 at 115mph, with a 2.08 60fter. I reckon if i can sort the launch for sub 2sec 60fts that a low 12 is possible. Those of you with GCG's, what times and mph do you run?

i had a carbon bonnet for my 33, and i think your figures are pretty spot on chris. my std bonnet was just under 20kg and the carbon just under 10kg.

6500rpm in 5th on an airstrip on large diameter 19s, ~270 mark?

if the amount of air you currently get thru your stock radiator removes a certain amount of heat from the coolant, a larger radiator will remove more heat with the same air, as its more efficient (due to larger surface area)

thanks for the feedback guys, leaning towards the RE55s

did they change the rules about posting up for mates? bump...

hey guys, another Rcompound thread.. searched and read various past threads Waiting for my buddyclub P1s to arrive, and need to decide on tyres. I wanted to get the new RE55s's. I read that only the 'wet compound' version is available at the moment? My question is, is it worth buying a set of these to use only in the dry -how much faster would they wear out compared to the dry compound? and does anyone know anything about availability of the other compounds? (Ive been priced $400 for the 255/40/17 and $390 for 235/45/17, through Gordin Levin, not including SAUNSW discount) My other alternative is the Falken RT-215. From what i have read, those that have used them seem to swear by them. Id love to hear from anyone who has used both RE55s and RT-215s. Tempe priced the RT-215's at under $300, which would save me $400 on a set of 4, allowing me to get those braided lines i need! So are the RE55s worth 100 extra per corner?! Intended use is ultimately track, but also street when the 19's are off. thanks for any responses

drifto, why do 2ways clunk more than 1.5ways?! two of my friends have 1.5ways and they are far more friendly. Or is it that my diff is set to lock at the slightest amount of load?

dont just go and change your coils if you get a missfire. i had the same thing and went looking for prices for new splitfires. Then i found a thread about cracking housings and arcing problems. I pulled my coilpacks found one TINY crack, slapped some insulating tape on it and its been perfect ever since. If you have a crack thats causing it to arc out and not a problem with the coil itself, resistance testing wont help you.

Cant see why the Tomei would be any worse than any other brand. 2 ways are rough, for street your best off with a 1.5way. I have a cusco 2 way and it works perfectly, but tight turns get annoying. read 'clunks'

can anyone provide contact details for this guy(s)?