SLY33

guys i would also like to know the standard height? can someone with fully stock sus please go out and measure centre of wheel to guard? would be a great help thanks!

yeah they have to reheat the metal... unfortunately i didnt do any metal work study, and since the spring company seems to do lots of reset jobs (plus they said it doesnt wreck the metal/spring) i thought it would be ok... oh well, the hard way to learn is the best way to learn!

hi guys, just a bit of an update on my reset springs. Kings 1inch low, i had reset 20mm lower to get just under 1.5inch lower. This should have put my C.O.W.-guard measurement at ~350mm (taken that a whiteline 1.5inch low spring gives 345mm, im told) Well when first in they were perfect, but a few months later and they have sagged to an unacceptable height. I measured them yesterday, 315mm COW-guard!! So now the car is nearly 2&3/4 inches lower than standard! The ride has gotten progressively crap as the springs dropped, as there is just not enough travel available. Needless to say i have a set of whiteline lowered springs on the way! This is a caution to anyone considering resetting springs, apparently it wreaks havoc with the metals original properties from when it was first wound, with possibilites of altering the spring rate and making the springs weaker - ive since heard of reset springs actually snapping. In short definitly not advisable!!

sounds sweet matt, i have always used rockford and alpine stuff among others, absolutely love it! Havent used lightning audio before, they are kinda like US Audio stuff yeah? Good WRMS per dollar stuff?

but the highflow std turbo is still a pretty small turbo, i wouldnt think that the stock exhaust manifold is too bad for such a turbo. My 2530 is roughly equivalent in size to a highflow stock turbo, and there is pretty much no lag. I can understand on big phat turbos like 3040's that an aftermarket exh manifold would help, but im not so sure its worth the money on small GT25's or highflow standards???

R33NT; above is your original post. In seriesIIgtst's defence, where do you see the word RECENTLY in your above post? Seriously it seems every week someone comes along with a new "GCG highflow" thread, and he was perfectly in place to tell you to search. Then you come back with a stupid thread trying to cover your ass by writing RECENT in capitals all over it. If you post something that has already been done a million times, you will always get someone telling you to search. If you dont want to be told to search, then be MORE SPECIFIC in your ORIGINAL post, and perhaps state that you HAVE searched, but found nothing that SPECIFICLY answers your question. UNDERSTAND?! Your response to seriesII's post is RIFE with ATTITUDE and has prompted THIS post. So be carefull, as an unhealthy attitude on here may get you BANNED if you rub people up the wrong WAY. :kick: btw i do note that you wrote "new highflowed turbo" however i woudlnt think many people would know that GCG have changed their line up, whether they actually have or not still seems to be in contention!

thats a cool link steve, i wish i saw it before i got my 2530! as it clearly shows a healthy 250kw produced by an rb25 with a 25"40", which is ideally what i should have got...! Those dyno graphs are rear wheel kw right? if so then HKS rate their turbos in rear wheel PS. That is interesting, as lots of people bag rwkw claims made with these turbos by saying "well its only rated at 3xxPS at the engine, so it cant possibly be making a true xxxrwkw" is that right?

enrico, if the back end steps out, that usually means you are getting drive to BOTH wheels, but in a stock lsd like yours, you may be getting uneven power distribution, eg 70% power to your left wheel and 30%power to the right, and so it steps out just a little. So you may be openwheeling a bit. If both spin together as in a locker, you can feel the back end very consistent, and it will feel a little "floaty" as both wheels have broken traction.

talking about "lockers" and "LSD's" : why do they seem to go hand in hand with mechanical diffs? eg: "OS Giken Super Lock LSD" i gather this is a locker diff, so why do they put "LSD" in the title? Isnt it either a limited slip, or a locker? Re-shimming the stock diff can be customised by the amount or thickness of shims, to give the effect you want. Ive heard of UAS reshimmed diffs over here being great for the street. In probably most conditions other than drifting, i found my stockie to be perfectly adequate for street, and if you dont want a pig of a diff, maybe just get it tightened up a little bit? i think this is possible...

as the topic has changed to diffs, please continue here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...4323#post714323 and we'll let this thread get back to suspension

ive started this thread as the topic has come up in my suspension thread please continue...

i believe std r33 is 4.11

yeah thats crap. Who doesnt speed up to the new speed when they see the 80 sign!? gees i dont think i ever wait till ive crossed the sign... apart from when coming into a slower speed zone. That really sucks, especially when you were being responsible by doing the speed limit.

thats a funny script gary! But can you explain the superiority on the street for a 1.5 way? Im under the impression that a 2 way locks on accel and decel. or something. i have a cusco 2way and i find that if it comes out too far and i back off, the back end is stable and doesnt flick or snap back. Will these benefits still be in a 1.5way?

nos might be easy power, but its not exactly a cheap mod, plus you can still get fined like the cat removal.

hi, ive just been personally witnessing the effects of cat removal. It results in noticeable increase in spool time and the engine feels free-er (this is even after using a highflow cat). The amount of rwkw gained depends mainly on the amount of exhaust flow. If your nearly stock then it wont make much more power, but if your running up around 1.2 bar then you could see up to 10rwkw with tuning. It wont damage the engine. If you have a tuned aftermarket ecu it shouldnt flame or pop either. This is seen more with the stock ecus that run rich. Striaght thru pipe is simply a pipe with flanges on it that bolts in place of the cat, making a fully straight thru system.

ive been running around at 98% duty cycle and knock is usually around 12. it might see 20, which is still heaps low. The tuner says its safe and not to worry about it! Im not worried, as im not sticking with this setup for much longer, im sussing out a bigger turbo, and already have 555cc HKS injectors. but yeah i can have the fuel pressure bumped up with my setup and not need injectors, but that will require a trim tune- more cash but i dont think running a lower duty cycle will give me any more power. If the engine does happen to go (but compression test indicates health) then its the excuse i need to rebuild it! The tune is good, knock is always low, im thinking it will be ok... at least till i change setups. And yeah all along ive been thinking stuff the cat, but i wasnt sure how some ppl on here would react to the whole pollution thing. Some ppl get very arcy about that stuff! I do realise the pollution benefits, and for the sake of posting on a public forum, the cats for street, straight thru for track. Inasnt, what are the housing and turbine specs of your turbo? As ive been offered by ATS to do a highflow of my 2530 for 1800$ where they put in a GT30 core, which they say made 210rwkw at 10psi on an RB25 in QLD i think, and would comfortably make 250rwkw.

i have an 044 and a tomei fpr. is boost worx in adelaide? im in sydney now. I may try CRD as N/A reckons they are wicked tuners. anyone else used them? At the moment the injectors run mid 90%, thats why i cant do even one run without the cat, as surely i will cause damage thru leaning out? I also think i should be able to get more fuel pressure with my setup. i will ring some places here and see what they say. Im just getting sick of throwing money at the car and not getting good results. I would love do delete the cat, i even have the bolt in pipe sitting here, but i was told over here in sydney they can pull you over and test emissions on the spot, and if no cat = huge fine. How many of you sydney guys actually run cats? For some reason the car doesnt feel as grunty over here in sydney, it must be different fuel characteristics or something, thats all i can think of? Back home a 40k roll on in 2nd would light the back up easily and drift down the road, but now it only accelerates, only just breaking traction, but then gripping again. Doesnt feel quite the beast it used to!

Guys the orginal thread is here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=30077 and answers some questions. Its HKS, 1800 was second hand. Simon at morpowa says it should make at least 240rwkw if the boost would hold. My current 220rwkw is made at only 14psi. I spoke to CAPA today about my setup and the problem with boost. He asked what cat i was using and i told him (Supercat) and straight up he said he's never known setups to work properly with these "highflow cats" due to the flow being crap resulting in too much back pressure. In his words 'i bet thats your problem'. His other suggestion was that the exh housing was too big. He asked what size it was, i dont understand this, as i thought 2530's all had the same 0.64 housing? knore, i dont think the 2530 would hit 250rwkw, possibly a 2540 could, but if anyone has achieved this, please let me know how! DJ Lethal, see my original thread, 230rwkw is possible with your setup. I made 227.5rwkw with the std AFM, but it would max out on cold nights/more boost. Still ok if you turned the boost down a bit if it got cold... Got the injectors today. I really have to suss out this boost problem. I need to figure out if the turbo is too small for the top end flow, or is it the cat? I wish someone could just tell me! I can put a straight thru pipe on for testing, but then injectors are instantly on 100%. If i put in the new ones, i will have to get another FULL tune done, and if the boost problem is still there, id be wasting another 500 bucks that i dont have! Not sure what road ill take, but right now im thinking of putting the injectors aside, save a bit, sell the 2530, and go a turbo that is proven on an RB25 so that i dont have to do anymore problem solving! Ill be going for 250rwkw this time, as it doesnt take long to get used to the power, also i might keep up with N/A on rolling runs!! rbs13 i agree with the match for rb20. Not that its a bad thing on the rb25, even with the boost problem, but i really want to get the maximum out of whatever turbo im using. 2530 on rb25 @1bar =220rwkw with cat, 230rwkw without cat. Out of all this, that is what i've learnt!

go to edwardstown body repairs, who painted my car. they also repaired other cars in my family. If you want the job done once and done properly, ie perfect paint matching, go have a chat to Romeo down there. Highly recommended. 82778887 They are always flat out but for a relatively small job such as yours they'll likely fit you in between jobs.

im sorry to say that my car wont be spotted in SA anymore. We did the drive to Sydney, all was well, not even one stonechip or speeding fine! I used 3M contact adhesive all over the front bar, and end of bonnet. NSW members, sorry to say, but it really sucks to drive around here, so much bloody traffic, so inconvenient to cruise anywhere!!! I miss little adelaide already. If i dont end up using the fly much it will be coming back to adelaide for holiday use! And damn its easy to get used to power. Already planning to highflow the 2530 and injectors are in the mail!!

i was there but i didnt meet any forum people! i left to go get a mate and when i came back a whole group of people had left, must have been the forum guys.

thanks mack, but i didnt end up taking my car out last night! Does that mean there is another 33 exactly like mine!?!?! two40, i got real tired and ended up not going.. i met up at bicentennial park today tho, with the newcastle guys. Big range of cars, but not really many skylines!

thanks for the compliments guys, it turned out exactly how i wanted, very happy with the end result, as there were MANY MANY sleepless nights deciding on rim styles, colour and bodykits! After i gave the go ahead to the painter for the colour i actually had a nightmare that it turned out looking aweful! Woke up and went "oh sh1t, maybe i shouldnt get pearl!" I was very relieved to see it turn out nice! Have you seen the before picture?! i think i may have posted it somewhere before.. I could go offroad back then! Also i found a car in the UAS car park that had the kit i wanted, and photoshopped the colours i was thinking of. I put my rims on it and chopped off the GTR wing.

wow this thread has been busy! i havent been here for a while... qikshift, you said you wanted your arches to be on the tyre front and rear? if you did this your car wouldnt be level, and would have a bit of a forward rake. As i believe that to get the car (sill panel or whatever) truly level, then the rear arch sits a bit lower than the front one. My car is dead level, and the rears are more under the guards than the fronts. Anyone correct me if im wrong! Enrico, so many used teins come in from japan, and im sure that many have different springs in them (ie yours must be softer than mine were) Also you have no idea what has been done to the internal valving. I got literally NO travel! the car felt SOLID! and the car bounced rather than absorbed, that would be my elaboration. Get the car on a DEAD FLAT PERFECT road, and im sure they would be awesome, but there arent many of those around my house! Now that im in sydney, guys the roads are SHIT here!! bloody potholes ! But as i mentioned, your teins could have completely different characteristics than mine. You were obviouisly luckier than me with your purchase! All tein HA's may have been created equal, but by the time they get here they may be completely different! Im not bagging teins, as i know they are excelent suspension, my point is that 2nd hand ones can be a gamble. But still i think the fact that jap suss wasnt designed for jap roads cant really be argued, but it doesnt matter. The only thing that matters is that you are happy with them! Sydneykid, you are always correct. The springs in my car were easily more than DOUBLE that of the kings. Somewhere in the region of 500lb! as opposed to under 200lb!!! Crooser, happy to hear that your happy with the new combo! Skipy12, sorry dont know about 32s, also i dont know the model number off the top of my head, id have to get under the car. but bilstein sports i think is what they are. A point to anyone considering RESETTING SPRINGS. I did it with my kings, and i wouldnt really recommend it. When i put them in first they were perfect. Then they did the usual settle a bit lower after a bit of driving, still JUST fine. Then they sagged a little bit lower, now they are JUST too low! Point being that i had them reset 20mm lower, totalling 45mm from stock, but with the sagging i reckon its they are about 30mm lower =>55mm lower than stock. I think the resetting isnt good as the heating/cooling of the spring has an effect on the metal or something. As when new, the Kings didnt sag after they settled. It was ok in adelaide, but with these sydney roads here i think ill have to bump the height up! Gonna just machine the shocks and raise the spring seat. cheers all!