SLY33

is the reason being that in order to control boost pressure on a big turbo, an internal gate wont allow enough gas out to make the boost change needed?

there is nothing wrong with the std coils when they are working, the cheap option is to fix your ones. If its breaking down at higher boost but fine at lower boost, chances are the pack(s) just have a tiny crack in the housing. You can fix this for nothing with some electrical tape. Splitfires are great, but for a hi-flow application are not a neccessity, and i wouldnt spend 600-900$ on a set if i didnt have to!

pull out your packs and inspect really carefully, use a magnifying glass maybe, and youll probably find the hairline crack/cracks. I simply wraped insulating electrical tape around the coil pack housing, covering the crack. This will do until i get new coils, its been fine for a couple of months now!

Robo's, all your problems, ive been there and done that. Boost will ALWAYS drop off at the top end, giving you a lowish peak power. 2530 is a bit small for top end on a 25. The comp wheels spins out of efficiency. Id bet its a coil pack causing the misfire. I had exactly the same problem when setting mine up and trying to run more boost. Itd run fine but as soon as you hit boost it just broke down. changed a pack and all was good. 5 months later, another pack went. this time i just wrapped it in electrical tape and its all good. The problem is the coil pack housing gets hairline cracks and arcs out. easy to fix. i can run up to 1.4 bar (still dropping off at top) with no problems. Just check your using good correct plugs, and set at 0.8mm gap. im using iridiums. The other thing i had to change was the AFM. stock one would max out easily with the increased air flow from the new turbo, giving a coil pack-like missfire, but not as severe. any questions just let me know, ive spent a lot of time playing with this turbo! I know what you mean about the increased midrange with more boost, mine lights up second easily.

so how does it drive on those rare occasions? how much power do you have?

my wastegate actuator is 1.2bar... i doubt you'll find anyone running this turbo at stock boost if by stock you mean 0.5bar

i hope so! i think it all bolts up. Kit comes with its own dump and all the lines. I think the one thing ill need is a new intake pipe as the compressor inlet mouth looks big, but im fairly sure its a blot on kit. can someone with ~280rwkw comment on drivability? are these cars still fast at speeds below 100 or is it just wheelspin city? While i love power, it makes you slower if you cant get it down!

thizzle that is an awesome power curve! looks to have about the same response as my 2530, but with stronger top end! -I hope im impressed by my 2835pro! Looking at that curve the GTRS could be THE ultimate daily-driver/weekend racer turbo upgrade!

very occasionally you'll get a 33 that has had its stock ecu fiddled with in japan. Ill say that 192 rwkw on an unfiddled ecu, running only 10psi, and no FMIC is not normal. no matter how high end the lubricants are! theres a guy in SA whos stock ecu made 200rwkw with stock turbo, and the AFR's were in great shape and definitly didnt look factory. Either your ECU has been modified, or the dyno was being generous, as 99.9% of cars with only exhaust and filter wont make much more than 175rwkw.

ookami, you say longer runners give more lag? I thought the factory runners are long to provide good off boost response and better drivability, i dont think it has a lag issue. Especially since SK has said that the extra length of cooler piping on a standard set up only has 1.5litres of extra air, the extra air a std plenum will hold compared to a Greddy one would be a sparrows fart. great post SK, i like the idea of doing the plenum to improve the look and convenience of accessing plugs etc, but like you say its sure not worth over a grand just for that! how often do people need to pull plugs?! the factory setup can look very neat when the right parts are detailed. sorry author this thread is off track.

if you want to put an rb20det in there, im sure you could find someone with a r32 gtst that would like your sr20det in place of their RB!

strictly speaking, 2835 is a 400ps rated turbo, exactly the same as GT-RS. Its the 2835Pro and 2835R that have the 420ps rating. Hence more power from the 2835Pro's that people such as grepin (287rwkw?) are getting. I think that was at 1.2 bar. So far ive heard a GTRS pull 250rwkw at 1bar, so they arent too far apart.

whos the dude on here who just got a GTRS tuned on a 33? he got i think just over 250rwkw on 1bar, so i think there should definitly be more in it with more boost, which would put it quite ahead of the 2530- which is a good solid street turbo, which can only be faulted for running out of a bit of puff at the very top end. For the price of the GTRS's at the moment they are a steal. There seems to be lots of support for the 30xx series, looking at dyno runs the power looks like a light switch (i even think the 2835 looks to come on pretty hard) are these really good for the street? surely 3rd gear would bag street tyres just coming onto boost, let alone trying to accelerate hard in 1st or 2nd? Sounds like fun, but frustrating when lesser powered cars beat you to 100! I have a 2835proS on the way at the moment. Going to have to run R-compounds full time, as the 2530 already fries tyres with its paltry 220rwkw!

ahh the other thing, if your springs are more than 2.5inches lowered, the shocks arent happy, and the ride suffers notably. I ran at just over 3inchs lowered for a while, and after i got sick of the ride and bottoming out i now have 1inch lowered, and the ride is completely improved.

i also have bilstein shocks, the yellow 'sport' ones from UAS, with king springs, ride is great, definitly not too hard. You should be able to find out the spring rates from who you bought the springs from. You probably have the same shocks as me, if so its not the shocks. The shaking over bumps could be due to the springs being too firm for the shocks, so that the shock cant control the bump/rebound, and as a result the car get bumpy and loses contact with the road over bumps. Why did you buy PEDDERS of all springs when theres quality stuff like Kings, Lovells, Whiteline, Eibach etc which if you speak to Bilstein are all highly recomended for use with their shocks?!

Jase, when i had my factory viscous lsd and super hard tein coilovers, id also spin one wheel real easy while going slowly through driveways. In my case the suspension was so stiff that when going through a driveway angle one of the rear wheels just lifts off the ground, allowing it to spin, and i would never feel an "lsd effect" in these conditions. Launching however my lsd would work fine. Do a burnout, and id have two nice black lines. As mentioned its easy to test, after a good drive give it some boot off the line and check your tire marks on the road.

the numbers 5w40 etc are viscosity ratinigs of the oil. Viscosity is an internal property of a fluid that offers resistance to flow- it basically refers to how thick or thin the oil is. We use multi viscosity oils, the first number is the cold viscosity, the second number is the warm viscosity. As our turbo engines require lots of oil flow to our turbos we like oils that are thin when cold (a low number like 5, means the oil flows very well when cold). The "W" following the 5 in 5W40 simply means that the number preceding the 5 is a cold temperature rating that meets SAE requirements. In one of my old 5litre Torana's id use a nice thick oil to try and reduce tappet noise, whereas a thick oil in an engine like an RB might not give enough flow to keep things happy. personally i use motul 8100 fully syn 5w40 (~$65 for 5litres), over mobil one.

damn that gtrs kit is an absolute steal! if only i didnt have the 2835 on order!

Well when i first got my car back, it had been tuned to be safe at 1.39bar! Straight away i voiced my concern to my tuner but he assured me its safe. On cold nights i regularly see 1.39bar. I have a completely unopened motor with the stock 9:1 compression. I do get the occasional knock if the fuel is bad. Many would say thats excessive, and id even agree with them! But so far its been fine, and as i plan to rebuild the motor soon anyway it doesnt bother me. So going on how my motor handles it, id be saying 1.2bar with good tuning should be fine on a "healthy" motor, although for peace of mind go the head gasket and 8.5:1 comp. as for the GT-RS, its a newer turbo rated higher than the 2530/35/40 and designed to fill the power/response gap in the old GT series, so i dont doubt it'd be the pick of the bunch, but as with every other mod, it depends on how much you want to pay, as the old GT25 series can be had fairly cheap even brand new.

haha, just spoke to BD4s, and yep they told me 250rwkw what mods will get you an extra 50rwkw?

yes the GT-RS's sound very impressive, but whats the price? wouldnt think youd find too many second hand ones yet? BD4s have recently set one up on a 33, have to call them to see what it made, will let you know.

hi evan, no i havent got anymore power out of the 2530, Its actually making less than when i first had it tuned due to the addition of a cat in the exhaust, which im still running. I made 227rwkw without cat, and now make 218rwkw at just under 1bar, but run 1.2 bar till about 6-6500rpm (boost drops off after here). yeah im pretty pleased with the mph! ive just been fighting axle tramp off the line which is why the 60ft time isnt so good. A 1.8 60ft time would definitly bag a very low 12. Congrats on getting into the 12s!

Mate has just had his r32 rb20 tuned (power FC) for 240rwkw. 18psi with some toluene to stave off detonation. Possibly the best turbo upgrade for a street rb20?

also ive run side by side many times with cars producing up to 40rwkw more than mine, and either been dead even or beaten them, ie again, peak power isnt everything. I do see your point, i went from 200rwkw stock turbo to 220rwkw, and thought it was a lot to spend for just 20rwkw! but the difference in power delivery and fun factor is chalk and cheese.

fane, what makes you believe the 2530 is too small? have you used one or driven an rb25 with one? The peak power it makes doesnt tell half the story. The midrange and response is awesome. I have no problem with people expressing opinions, but without direct experience i think can be misleading to others. If i took you for a spin in mine im sure youd be grinning afterwards and might not think its so small