tmc_2

I think its just a dead motor, the switch and amp box are fine after i inspected them. I connected direct power to motor with no response.

well if any one has one available please pm me.

Thanks for all the replies guys, i called the jap importers at slacks creek and going price for the window mechanism is $170, bit exxy for me. Im trying to hunt one down cheaper. Ill give the other places a call monday. Sucks i cant leave my car any where so makes it pretty useless at teh moment, Thanks guys

Hello every one. I am in urgent need of a r33 driver side window motor. My window is jammed down and unless i can fix it i am pretty much screwed for trasport because i cant leave it parked with the window down. If any one has anything available or belives they can fix it please let me know. I will pay for services to fix it or buy motor assembly if available. Please either PM or sms me on 0412 282 473 Cheers Lloyd

BeerBaron I meant to type 'APexi is now officially bankrupt' Sorry i have crap typing. but i foudn out form soem one today its only apexi japan apparently and they have a large american arm so maybe there is still some hope?

Apexi is not officially bankrupt. Any one thought of the link ecu direct replacement? there around 1k from slide.

It may be registering 30 when u hear it? I second tha tu should get it checked on a dyno to be safe.

FCK mE!! the best import engine in the world in the best import body!! damn, i wish i had the money to do this. I just bought a r33 a few months ago, wish i waited.

Ur correction setting are all over the place, im assuming ur stock gyno graph is not smooth as well. This would indicate in my limited opinion that there are some other issues with the cars performance and ur tuner has just tried to band aid it by tuing the safc. I would get it soreted first with no safc corrections then tune it again. Should have a fairly smooth curve for a skyline. what conncernes me is the correctiosn u have at low rpm before 400rm, also seems like he has added fuel? which is unusalus for a r33 unless there are other issues

Yes u can wire it up, as long as u dont touch and values , make sure there is no previous tune and all values are zero. The only thing u can tune is DEc/AIR that stops it stalling an minimising poping between gear changes, thats all u can tune safley ur self. u can find a DIY in the diy section of this forum. Any good tuner with a dyno should be able to do it in no more than 2 hours dyno time max.

ON my first r33 i used a normal bar and plate front mount of usual large size 600mm. I got a shop to custom my pipes so that it returned using factory engine bay pipes like the blitz lm. MY bottom pipe was not as los as the stock blitz one. I did have a aftter market tommy kiara copy font bars so i had more room to mount the cooler further out. This allowed me to run the bottom return pipe slightly behind the cooler and up higher. Worked great.

Hmm if u have a 32 u can ge tit remapped, i think its still like 600-1000 to do tho. Id prob get a NEO or safc2, then reevalutae it u thin ku need th eITC or a remap, if u buy a second hand safc2 or neo u can sell it for pretty much paid for it if u dint like it.

a guy buy the name of mad82 i think? is selling a modified stock ecu for like 200 in the forsale section, u should buy that then get a safc2 or neo to make it just right! his ecu has no rich and retard no speed cut and 500rpm more rev limit, i think also slightly different mapps! Id go for that plus safc if on a budget.

I can confirm 100% the neo has no knock read out. I reckon if you only have $500 to spen the safc2 is prob your best bet. Remapping ur stock ecu will be more expensive. I was in the same boat as u 4 months ago and i got a neo and now have a PFC , i think you should just save up and get the big daddy pfc to have it done righ tthe first time.

Just go into the boost and unclip the wring plug into the wiper. I didn ttake much notice and unpluged only one plug at the rear wiper. turns out it disabled the wiper wiping every time i sprayed but if i needed to i turn the nob forward and the wiper still wipes when i want it!!!

A nipple on the pipe would still have vacum?? woudlnt it?

I owned a neo, i would have loved the knock sensor, you will find you don tneed many load poisnt to modify if u dont have any problems wiht ur car. I know have a PFC and recomend just going for that.

I reckon some ting is up with ur car, go get it look at by a tuner.

Wher edid u ge tthe kits? its pretty straigh forward, post a pic of what ya got and ill try and help ya out.

Hmm i thought only GTR's had inlet air temp sensors? sorry i dont know more but maybe if u check the service manual that might show some thing. Do a search it is d'loadable in .pdf

So ur mechanic recoommended a Greddy intake over the cut and shut stock item? I see what he is saying about airflow, makes perfect sence. I think i will take his advice too.

I had mine chaged 10tho kays ago wiht a gates racing one. ROX best take it to a mechnic could be a numbe rof things from, Fuel pressure, airflow meter, timming. I go tmy car booke din for a PFC tune and to sort out the CAS issue on the 17th so i will let u know after what the solution was for me. Apparently the cas can go bung and sometimes read 0 or 15 and all over the place. On my PFC the read out ofr timming is fine doesnt seem to move? but i dont know if the PFC actually shows wha tis really going on with timing? does any one know?

Seems liek we both have fcked CAS, apprently when they give sypmtoms like urs is displayign they need replacing so i am told.

Hi mate, the highes you should go is 12psi maximum, 10-11 is safer. Over 12psi and ur exhaust wheel on the turbo will blow off. you shoudl upgrade your intercoole rif your running more boost. Also get a full exhaust system.

LOL my r33 was fitted with a swith so i can flick it and the ariel does not extend. I guess its a simple break the right circuit and add a switch job. Any auto elec should be able to do something fairly cheap.