Guilt-Toy

I am really impressed with the work you guys are doing with these things... well done...!!!

I will take a guess and say its the plug that you put on the flex pipe on the front of the turbo that the BOV vents back into.

I wish god will make my dreams come true to be legally allowed to have a rocket launcher at the front and rear of the car that can be used at my will. One that was powerfull enough that it would blow the victims car up in the air 50 meters so I have enough time to drive through before they hit the ground. I dream of this day. But somehow i dont think it will ever happen

The RB30 strength are the same for the turbo and non turbo. The non turbo has the provisions for the water and oil lines blocked off (except for the very first series one's) The oil pumps are the same between any series II and above for turbo and non turbo. only the series 1 non turbo has the small pump. The turbo has a different cam but you get more response out of the NA cam.

how noisy is it ? if its only just starting to make a sound then dont worry about it. they can make a noise and still work fine for ages and ages. its only when they get REALLY noisy when u worry about it

yes EVERYONE wants a power fc.

yeah i want to change mine too. Is yours reading high knock levels that you cannot even hear ?

Hey brad Say you normally tune a car to run .84's which is quite acceptable for a street car and you do those tunes all day. If someone comes up to you with a hecktic drift car and says "i want a drift tune" would you tune it to run .84's during the drift cycles or would you richen it up to .80's or 7's so the engine can run cooler? Next tune you do - set the speed to 140ks an hour and floor it for 10 minutes. I bet ya it knocks my 2c's

You could probly just leave the tune how it is. under normal driving conditions (if your not going to go into boost) dont worry about it. IF you do plan on giving it some stick then go into setting and then inj/ign and set the timing to -5 deg. This will take out 5deg of timing from the WHOLE map. Remember once you turn the car off the setting will be reset back to 0 so you will need to do it again next time you plan on giving it some stick. if you have troubles finding it and need someone to walk you through it over the phone pm me

t51r

For starters NEVER put 91 octane fuel in your car EVER again. It is the main reason why its pinging. When you fill up with 98 again it should not ping if it didnt ping before. 7 octane points makes a pretty big difference.

if i do make it to the show and shine i can take some timing out of it for you if you want. this is a very common problem

your lucky. my car broke down at cardiff and has been there since friday night. Mine is a wiring fault from the water somehow

yeah check the hazzards plug. that will stop them from working.

mods.. ecu ? does it have a $200 dyno tune programed into it ?

my cold fully forged rb30det runs 95psi in each cyl when cold and 120 each cyl when warm. engine has done 15000km's and showed these readings from the start. (Low compression for big boost)

id have to agree that 350rwkw is alot for the street. I did like to drive 300rwkw hard on the street better then 350 because 350 was a bit hairy.. if the road is not perfectly smooth in third gear it will break out sideways. But 300rwkw it does not spin in third unless the road is really f**ked and you shouldnt be hammering it on that road anyway and first and second is very manageable.

was the ecu manufactered by nissan ? if so you should use the Standard Nissan ecu with SAFC or similar.

get the valvoline running in oil. use it for 2000k's then whack in some mineral oil and use mineral oil for 2 changes like gtx3 or something similar. after the engine has done around 15,000km's then go fully synthetic. Do it this way and your engine will wear in better

should have given your vote to adaptronic! its supposed to be a good ecu with 0 votes lol

Yeah Power FC is doin really well.

i will pm you my bank account details for the 2k

a SAFC can help your fuel economy a little but it will get no where near as good as a Power FC. They can be worth the hassle if you only have minor mods. any upgrade of the injectors or turbo and its Power FC time.

i take my hat off to you mate. If it was me... Id be going for a 15 year holiday.

Yeah I agree those AFR's are pretty good for a SAFC. its hard to get a SAFC to read that straight. If you changed that to lambda it would be much better to look at The dyno is not as happy as some people think.. it read 100hp less compared to the auto salon dyno the next day. but every dyno is different.