Burns

I am converting my Stagea to a R33GTR manual seeing I have killed the auto. It currently has about 200awkw and I am aiming for 250awkw. What clutches should I consider given the following? - Stagea weighs about 200kg more than a GTR . - It is a daily driven car with some city driving. - I will use it to tow my rally car at 1600kg including trailer and equipment. - I will take it to the drags once or twice, an occasional track day and spirited mountain drive. I will be using a R34GTT clutch pedal and MC with the stock GTR slave cylinder or maybe a ¾ Nismo slave cylinder so no booster like a GTR. You have to pull the engine out and cut a big hole in the firewall and fabricate a recess to mount the cylinder for the booster in. Thanks. And yes I will be calling Jim Barry on Monday but a few other options and options can't hurt.

I have a S14 tow bar that I am told will fit on a R32. The rear chassis rails are the same on R32's and S14's which is were the tow bar mounts. Were are you located? If it dosnt fit I will take it back

Good work. I found your post on SDU just after I posted here. I have begun getting prices for parts now. I could probably do it all my self if I had acces to a hoist and trans jack. It dosn't look like it will be too big a job for a workshop if I do everything else.

tRUkbOY how did your conversion go?

tRUkbOY I’m very interested to hear how you go. Would be good to see some pics, How much did all your parts cost you? darrinspencer So using R33 gear box that works out to $2,700 worth of parts excluding the interior bits Then if you include $1,000 labor $3700 and your on the road. Have you done your conversion yet? Not really that much more than performance rebuilt auto at $3,320 installed. Abo Bob I have spoken to Mike at MV and he definitely sounds like he knows what he’s doing and about the same cost as Keas for a more comprehensive rebuild. How do your find your Trans for every day driving? Not too harsh on gear changes when just commuting.

WTF is a luggage fan? Is it incase you have smelly luggage?

My 3-4 clutch and possibly 2-4 band are dead.

Ok so I have killed my auto. My 3-4 clutch and possibly 2-4 band are dead. I have also been told they can be strengthened to take 230kw but beyond that the input put Shaft and Forward Planetary set are a weak point. I am waiting for a quote to repair and strengthen it. I am thinking that if the difference between a repaired and strengthened auto and a manual conversion is not too big I will look at doing the manual conversion. I know most of the manual conversion stuff has been done to death in other threads but a few key things are still unanswered. 1. Why can’t a R33 GTS-t or R34 GTT clutch master cylinder be used? 2. Why can’t a R33 GTS-t or R34 GTT clutch pedal be used? 3. Why can’t a R33 GTS-t, R34 GTT or cut down Stagea brake pedal be used? 4. What about R33 GTS4 parts? Dose a GTS4 have a booster for the clutch? It seems that if they can a fair bit could be saved. Has anyone actually tried using these parts? So far the reasons have been that: The GTR clutch master cylinder with booster is needed otherwise the clutch pedal will be too heavy. But plenty of people run the same clutches in R33 GTS-t as they do in R32 GTR’s and Series 2 Stagea manuals don’t have the booster. It seems like you would just need to pick the right clutch. It has also been said that a Skyline clutch pedal wont bolt in and that a 260 part needs to be used. But what is the difference is it just a matter of drilling holes for the bolts in a different location? What about using a Stagea Series 2 pedal? I’m not that worried about the interior at the moment, I can work that out later. I can do everything except for fitting the gearbox, fly wheel and clutch my self and would do that too if I had a hoist and gearbox jack. I would fit the clutch pedal, MC and mod the brake pedal for clearance or fit a R33 GTS-t pedal my self before taking the auto out. Then take it to a workshop to take out the auto, fit the flywheel, clutch and gear box. Gear box $1,200 Clutch / Flywheel $1,000 2nd hand R33 GTS-t Clutch peddle bits $500 R33 GTS-t hand brake cable and lever $50 Labour $800 Total $3,550

Nope it’s stuffed not just a bit of slippage or heat caused. The fluid level is spot on and I have a big trans cooler fitted. I took it for a little drive just before and it changes out of 2nd but not into 3rd. It just releases 2nd then free revs not changing into 3rd. When I slow down or change it back using the stick it goes back down into 2nd. I have 1st, 2nd then neutral revv revv and go no where. When I had it serviced they also fitted an adjustable cam gear, spit fire coils and gave it a tune so it’s putting out about as much as you can with a stock turbo. I think the flex band or clutches between 2nd and 3rd have gone. So am I the first to break a Stagea auto? I will give Keas a call tomorrow and see what they think.

I just had the 100,000km service which included having the trans fluid changed. Since then it seemed as if it was shifting slower and that sometimes the revs would flair between gears. Then tonight under hard acceleration when changing from 2nd to 3dr it just let go, tacko hit 7,500 rpm and the power was not getting to the wheels. Its fine changing between 1st and 2nd when I have the shift leaver held in 2nd and if I hold it to about 4,000rpm and then move it to drive with the throttle closed it changes into 3rd ok. The change into 4th seems ok as well. The trans fluid smells like burnt rubber now. I know MV in Adelaide are the experts on these but can anyone recommend someone good in Melbourne who can replace the bands and clutches with heavy duty items and fit a shift kit?

I just had the 100,000km service which included having the trans fluid changed. Since then it seemed as if it was shifting slower and that sometimes the revs would flair between gears. Then tonight under hard acceleration when changing from 2nd to 3dr it just let go, tacko hit 7,500 rpm and the power was not getting to the wheels. Its fine changing between 1st and 2nd when I have the shift leaver held in 2nd and if I hold it to about 4,000rpm and then move it to drive with the throttle closed it changes into 3rd ok. The change into 4th seems ok as well. The trans fluid smells like burnt rubber now. I know MV in Adelaide are the experts on these but can anyone recommend someone good in Melbourne who can replace the bands and clutches with heavy duty items and fit a shift kit?

im still interested in a set of clear front bar indicators

Im interested in a pair of fronts

Put me down for a black one without the scoop.

The geometry of the Stagea rear end is different. The cross member is definitely wider and the drive shafts are longer. I wouldn’t be surprised if the fulcrum points in the rear suspension are different therefore giving different leverage on the springs than in an R33 therefore the different spring rates. The springs that fit are SK’s secret. You will have to ask him of buy them from him.

I would be interested but would want something that covered the whole area for when the rear seats are down. I have them down 99% of the time. I would really love a high density foam rubber mattress cut to shape to fit in the back with the seats folded down trimmed in a nice fabric that matches the interior

My car pffs farts fluuters, whissles, pops, chugs and choofs and some times shoots flames out the exhaust. It sounds like a 747 powering up for take off when the turbo spools up.

Cold Cranking Amps. That is how the capacity is mesured

Thanks guys I thnik your right it looks like it is part of the Front left inner guard. on Skylines ans sliviers it is a seperate part. I have spoken to Nissan and I think i have found everything needed now. It will probably be a good wait to get the parts.

Like a snow mobile. You wont need chains unless driving on ice skating rink type ice. which only happens once or twice a year any way. Just drive smoothly when braking and turning. If you are ever forced to fit chains put them on the rear wheels and don’t drive above 30 - 40kmh or so. us Ausies are wooses when it comes to driving on snow. In Canada I saw Harlies being driven on frozen ice covered roads.

They have the same wheel base as a R33 Skyline just a bit more over hang at the rear and a wider tracl width.

I finally got Fast working and have worked out everything needed and got prices. It looks like about $1200 worth. There is still one part I can’t find in fast. It is the liner that goes behind the intercooler down bellow the head light. It's a separate part to the wheel house liner part code 63131 as shown on illustration 630. It has L525-5111-500 on it but fast doesn’t recognize it. Any ideas ?

Thanks for that Alex just what I needed. No I havn't got the AP brakes on yet I wating untill I get the damaged fixed before I start pulling it apart again.