platinum

Yeah I used 35ms for that one The values in there were VERY low compared to the once I put in, like it was set at 15ms I think for +10.

Those cranking values worked awesome - thank you so much! Water temperature was 9 degrees this morning, and it turned over within about 2 cranks. Now to take apart the AFM tonight and see if that fixes the other issue.

Hey - I got one for mine, VDO make a brass fitting... really sorry I threw away the packege with the model number in it! The guy I talked to knew straight away what I need though. The stock oil pressure sensor screws into the end of it, and it has a hole in the side for your oil line. I just used some speedflow fittings and some teflon/braided lines for the VCT. edit: sorry, saw you need 3 maybe two of the above would sort it out... do you really need the stock gauge AND the aftermarket one?

haha well unfortunatly i had to get up in a rush to move my car for my housemate to leave for work, so my plan to put them in this morning was foiled Will aim for tomorrow morning! edit: this is probably a stupid question, but what exactly are we adjusting with the 'ms' ?

The 180 degree bend is horrible, although perhaps it would save one somewhere else. It looks very messy. Rather just get a custom plenum and save the bend at the top, would also neaten it up.

Great help - thanks joel. Will have a tweak over the next couple of days, because it really is a bit rediculous. I know if I had a close to flat battery and had to start this one in the morning I'd be buggered! Whereas my other VL will start cold instantly, all it needs is one crank and it's on, was the same on this one as well before I did the conversion.

mine has a fair problem with cold starts too, going to have a look at the AAC valve on the weekend, although it was all sand blasted, etc a while back. Seems to take 2 goes of 5-10 seconds, and then a final crank of about 2 seconds before it starts. Even totally warm, it takes probably 7 cranks to start. The old VL used to start at the flick of the key :\ tuner assures me it's totally normal though.

whoops you better be careful driving it until you can get the a/f ratio's checked out on a dyno...

That sounds like a similar problem, thanks - should the AFM voltage be doing funny things when it is stuffing up?

I've been driving it to work, and basically cruising very lightly, it still seems a tad high. Since the tune though I havn't done all that many calculations on it's fuel economy. Before the proper tune it used a tank in 350km of highway driving haha. I might fill it up this week, reset the trip meter and see how it goes. Although I'm extremely happy with how it cruises on the highway, so effortless. To be honest, not entirely happy with the tune as it is - and I'm not even sure if they even road tested it, because the idle was extremely crappy and there's no way you couldn't not notice it unless it was all done on the dyno under throttle. Anyway, will be upping the boost a little more soon and will get it tuned again, although getting the hang of the PFC now, makes me wonder if I should just purchase a datalogit box instread.

I'm using an stock intake pipe, and stock AFM, although it is hooked up to a pod filter.

Yeah I need an interior steam cleaned also....

You can't using skyline auto boxes, VL's pull through with the goods though since they aren't electronically controlled.

Upped the idle over the weekend, it's so strange though. It was set at 800, upped it to 900, and in drive, it still only idles at 800ish, which is a ton better than it was - I think the powerFC is a bit confused about the auto trans? Anyway seems to be all fine now. The other issue is still there however - is there any way to diagnose a faulty AFM by its voltage readings. Also, is it normal for the car to instantly stall when the afm is unplugged? ta

What sort of emissions test though, if it's the $3000.00 mitsubish plant one, bugger that. You interstate guys would be okay though I'd say if thats all it needs.

I thought that you couldn't put an older engine into a newer car, full stop - ie they had RB30 blocks in some r31s even after vls, not sure what exactly they would class as the 'engine' though, whether thats the block itself, or the head/accessories they're looking at. Definatly a LOT of grey areas with these hybrid engines haha.

I think in that year of car, it's more of a don't ask, don't tell thing.

Have a look here: http://carpoint.ninemsn.com.au/Tig/Minisit...pointau&id=6659 Probably going to have a chat to one of those myself in the near future - anyone got any other options, as usual S.A. is so pov and has like 2.

depends a bit, usually 4ch - and water temp, battery voltage, RPM and knock.

It would be really great to have a sub-forum for powerFC's, considering the sheer number of threads posted about them, etc - also could have the sticky threads and FAQ's for them without cluttering the forced induction forum.

I might be missing something simple here, but I can't seem to find the VCT menu through the hand controller, I saw the option listed on Paulr33's FAQ, but yeah, bit confused how to actually get it on screen - does it only enable it when it detects the sensor perhaps? Any help would be good, we really need a powerFC sub-forum I reckon! Thanks in advance...

Might see if i can borrow/steal one to test Also, what rpm to people generally have their idle setup at - mine is at around 700rpm, and it *just* doesnt seem quite enough, if I slip it in to neutral at the lights (auto) it idles at about 750-800rpm and is _much_ nicer. Just wondering what sort if idle speeds other people have? Is there an idle adjusting screw - or would this be done via the powerFC?

Hey, Just been having a few little 'niggles' with my new rb30det setup - and thought perhaps they all lead to the same issue. 1) on idle, occasionally for no apparent reason it will surge from about 500rpm to 1200rpm back and forth until you take off. 2) while driving it very occasionally just cuts in and out (doesn't stall) but if you were cruising at 60km/h it will jerk (power on, power off) about once a second alternating between the two, can't give it more power, and backing off doesn't help either. It only seems to happen on long drivers (ie greater than an hour). 2) a) very very occasionally (has happened twice) it will to the above, and then cut out entirely, and take quite a lot of cranking to actually get it to fire again (ie 6 lots of 10 second cranking while it splutters). It's running a freshly tuned powerFC, I'll check with where I had it tuned after the weekend, but if anyone has any ideas in the meantime.... I'm thinking is might be perhaps coilpacks heating up, or the ignitor, or perhaps AFM related? It's a bit hard to check things because it's a very itermitant problem!

Yeah it does work Just make sure they don't try and assign themselves the same IP address if they are both routers.

here 'tis