r33_racer

That is a joke! Nissan would be making a killing if we didnt have aftermarket options.

actually solid lifter conversion and oversize valves and dual valve springs for way cheaper. Infact that price would cover the whole kit and cams! Farking nissan!!!

You can get a supertech solid lifter conversion for half that price.

You can do a c02 test on the water system. With the chemical die and it changes colour if combustion gas is leaking into the water system. Ususally pretty definitive. But it does sound pretty well like a blown headgasket. You could also do a water system pressure test too, see if it holds pressure. I guess for future reference.

Payment details please too.

There is hydraulic and solid. Your 'lash' is the clearance between cam lobe and cam follower. Hydraulic is self adjusting via oil pressure in your cam follower taking up the lash, while a solid setup you have to shim the follower to achieve the correct lash clearance. The lash termed camshafts will be straight drop in items apart from some springs id imagine. The solid cams will require the solid lifter conversion kit in order to use them. RB25's have hydraulic lifters standard. So if you dont want to change to a solid lifter setup, you can only use the 'lash' 260 8.5mm camshafts.

What sort of power is it making at 17psi? If there was coolant leaking in the cylinder it would only get in when the engine shuts down. Whilst running the combustion gas would be blowing into the water system and your temps would skyrocket everytime you were giving it some gas and then immediately reduce when you back off. Is that what's happening?

I think the tomei type a springs give an open pressure of 115psi. Unless I converted that wrong. What brand of springs are they?

That would have been pretty damn cool!

Lol you know what that last picture looks like. The passenger is force pulling you along! Pretty cool.

They sure did! However, they dont make the car go faster....

Yeh it can get like that with stupid work. Always interfering with car stuff. QLD hey? Dont bring anymore cold with you, its bad enough with this lack of heat lately. You should have a play with solidworks too. They are both great programs. But I love the modeling in solidworks.

Thats exxy for new std valves. Mine are just original ones out of the head. You can get aftermarket valves for cheaper then that.

These sensors will all just hook up to your motec?

soooooooooooooooo....where are the performance modz?

Yeh I reckon it will, so im running two in an attempt to reduce the noise. Though I have my doubts that it will work, however, performance first! It looks like it! I got my nice string of paper weights, a CP piston, PPG dog ring, bottle of oil , 1mm oversize inlet valve inside the perf tube, further across are some valve guides and spark plugs you cant see. lol. go for gold, so long as your not in Perth, I dont think it would matter!

Justin, the mufflers are American, Borla is the name. Come on mate I thought you would have known that! They are very nice and all stainless, so well priced too. Yeh, nothing too radical since im no pro. That was my first attempt at actually cleaning up the ports, matching, and some minor blending. Its amazing how bad it is inside there.

Understandable mate. You are right about the mufflers. Im happy I aborted the dodgy option and did it properly. Yeh the valves are factory. Stock standard RB25det valves.

I drill a hole then die grind it out to size, usually the ID of the piece im going to weld on and then line it up so its resting on top, not slipped inside. So long as you do the pre heating and slow cool down it shouldnt crack. No problems with cracking so far mate.

Yeh that is true. But you never know! Maybe some unheard of brand of piston with a super high expansion rate lol.

Cheers mang! Im trying!!!!!!!!!!!!! So, no reply to my pointless email friday morning punk! Whats the deal????

Depends on the piston brand and application. Its possible 0.008" is the recommended piston to bore clearance. It would be interesting to see the spec sheet for the pistons. What brand are they?

Yeh the china manifolds always crack. They use too thin a walled tube for the runners. Welding to the exhaust housing you will need to pre heat it to about 400 degrees, then tig it on and try to keep the heat in it for a while after welding. I usually chuck it in the oven and keep it at 400 degrees for an hour or so afterwards and then turn the oven off and let it cool down over night. Its normally still warm the next morning. If you dont have an oven, you can toss it in some sand to help it hold the heat in. But its important you pre heat it and that it cools down slowly.

Mufflers came in on friday. They are different to the 3" mufflers in regards to the internals. The 3" had three perforated tubes welded together in a triangle form while these 4" ones as you can see have one big 4" perforated tube in the guts. I guess this one will flow better. Only took a week from order to delivery. Quick! I also spent the weekend finishing off the exhaust ports in the head and I lapped all the valves in. All came up pretty good. Though the valves and seats were all cut last year so its no suprise they seated nice and easily with minimal work. Only spent about a minute on each valve with fine compound. The exhaust ports and bowl area took me about a full day to finish off. Should get my block back today for o ringing then back for hone and then ready to assemble.

Excellent explanation. The idea behind the design seems fantastic for the goal trying to be achieved and it seems like it should work well. Ill be suprised if it doesnt. Im interested to see what sensors you are using and what positioning John thinks is ideal.